Safety bar on dovetail

[Merlin66]

I mentioned previously the concerns about lifting a C9.25 loaded with all the accessories onto the NEQ6pro mount. Difficult to hold everything while setting the dovetail into the Geoptik slot and then tightening the knobs etc.

Well, the attached images show my solution.

I have a wide Losmandy dovetail fitted to the C9.25 and have bolted a 30mm x 30mm x 3mm length of aluminium angle across the dovetail just forward of the "normal" balancing position. With the clamps open on the mount I can now place the OTA onto the Geoptik plate and let the angle take the weight until the knobs are tightened. I can then slide the OTA securely to the final balance position.

Much much easier and much much safer.

Ken

[martin_h]

The simple solutions are always the best ones!

[Paxo]

I'm just about to do the same thing on my 12" LX. Just need to get the balance point (just converted from forks to EQ mount) then do this, it is a very practical solution, thanks for the tip Ken.

Steve

[Merlin66]

To find a suitable point of attachment; set-up as usual and mark the position of the front edge of the clamp block ( EQ in park position, weigh down pointing to pole) with a bit of masking tape...

remove/ add some "accessories" and see how much real movement you need to re-balance..pick a point about 10mm infront of this "worse case" position. You should be safe with that.

Ken

[Wobbly Bob]

I have screwed a bolt at each end of a vixen dovetail, it has a yellow rubber cap over each bolt (looks groovy )

[Peter Drew]

Very sensible mods. Even when the dovetail is in its mating slot, if the rig is heavy, sometimes the locking knobs give the impression that everything is tight. After a bit of in use pushing and pulling the dovetail can loosen enough for the OTA to slide resulting in an eyeful of eyepiece.(Ken, I would get a file to the corners of your safety bracket to make it even safer!)

[Merlin66]

Peter,

Understood! the bottom corners are below the front edge of the Geotik plate, so I think they're OK. The idea seems to work very well for me. I'm more comfortable settting up now.

Ken

[Peter Drew]

No offence meant Ken, just one of those little obsessions drummed into me during my apprenticeship. We used to get a right verbal bashing for not removing sharp edges. If the inspector cut his finger on your submitted workpiece, it was sraight in the bin!

[Ant]

What a great modification Ken.

Nice one

Ant

[Merlin66]

That's Ok - I went to the same apprentice school!

The edges have all been broken - trust me!

ken

[Merlin66]

OT, but what's the definition of a "burr" ???

My answer later..............

[Peter Drew]

Tricky one that. My understanding of a burr relates to "damaged" surfaces such as where a drill bit breaks through or sharp edges raised by chafing or casting. No doubt there is a formal definition buried somewhere in "Machinery".

[Merlin66]

Peter,

In the press shop (where metal sheet is stamped in large hardened steel tools in 50 to 500 ton presses. ) the wear on the tooling can cause the edge of the cut to form a burr; this becomes a real problem when two components lie on each other and rotate ie latch mechanisms.

Production guys always debate with quality guys as to whether or not a burr is a burr....it can be a very slight sharp edge through to a slightly raised sharp edge...

The answer from the ol' timers....if you're prepared to run the edge over your neck ( they actually said your d**k) then its not a burr!

Usually stopped any argument stone dead.

Ken

[Peter Drew]

He he!. Definitely the same school Ken!

[barkis]

HehHeh! That's a hell of a test. Ouch!, It was a burr .

Great Mod. though. Surprising how the arms weaken when groping for the location . A short rest is a blessing.

Ron.

[Darren B]

A great tip, must do something with mine.

[Merlin66]

Paxo,

I have a 12" Lx OTA but didn't think even the NEQ6pro would handle the load! I'm sure it weighs around 20Kg...

I'd be interested in seeing your set-up.

Ken