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Bino-Viewers “back to basics”


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Hi Folks 

I am going to try viewers again for solar , have tried with some success in the past (Baader MB1s) & did try the original (white bodied) WO and a Celestron angled viewer without success , I’m hoping for more success with these the more recent WO offering.

Anyway as I said it’s back to basics ... So I place the viewer into the diagonal ... insert EPs and the nosepiece Barlow ... then what is your recommended procedure.

Thanks ... Brian 

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Hi Brian,

With my WO binoviewers, I use a 2x Barlow element screwed into the nosepiece of the binoviewer then the EPs directly into the BV.

With this setup and a 1.25" diagonal, I am able to reach focus with a Lunt Herschel Wedge and ST102, ED100 or ED120 in WL mode.

I can also achieve focus with my Lunt LS60, but for that I need to use the Barlow element in the body of TAL shorty Barlow that it comes from.

I can also reach focus with my Maxbrights and a 1.7x GPC fitted inside the 1.25" nosepiece.

Hope that this helps Brian, but you know how to get hold of me if you need to.

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Joking apart Brian, Ade is spot on.

I can't help with solar as I am night time only, but you are likely to have to use a Barlow/GPC unless your scope has lots of back focus.

I can actually get my Revelation binoviewers to focus without a Barlow on my FS128 by using Baader T2 components attached to an M72 adapter and a Baader Ultrashort 2" adapter with which I then use a Baader T2 prism diagonal.

Alternatively, if you do need a Barlow, I did once find a Baader 1.25x GPC, the least magnifying version they do I believe, which allowed me to come to focus, without magnifying the image too much..

Good luck with the WO set. 👍

Dave

Edited by F15Rules
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I use a Denkmeier binoviewer exclusively for solar observation, I need to use a 2x Barlow, lens only, screwed into the binoviewer nosepiece to reach focus as being as the telescope is a PST mod there is a specific placing of the etalon that doesn't give enough back focus without.  I am very happy with the high magnification, high resolution views.    🙂

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Using a very nice ‘Peter Drew’ PST Mod myself, I can also echo the fact that the views are excellent! I struggled with certain binoviewers, didn’t get on with the WO or Maxbrights I had in the past but that’s probably just me! I now have a pair of Baader Zeiss Mark IVs and some ‘supercharged’ TS ones, both of which work very well for me.

The only other things I would add, are that setting the inter pupillary distance is important to ensure proper illumination of each channel, and also fine tuning the focus balance between each side really helps bring out the detail. I have also found that eyeguards are useful, particularly when barlowing longer focal length plossls as the eye relief becomes quite long. I made some myself out of hobby foam for my 32mm plossls and they really help with eye position, and also cutting out glare.

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Many Thanks Gents 👍

For some reason I thought there was more to it than that and there may well be as I've not tried them yet ! I recall individual EP focusing ... and when I think back I had Antares & AE pairs at one point to. I reckon ill have to use the 1.6 x Barlow with them to achieve focus in my SM60s and hopefully my PSTs  but I'll drop a line here later in the week fingers crossed 👌

Oh and I will be in touch Ade 😀

Brian 

 

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Assuming that you've already determined the correct barlow/gpc to enable you to focus and have inserted the binoviewer into the focuser/diagonal then my process is as follows:

  1. Look through the BV with both eyes and adjust it so that the IPD feels right.
  2. Close one eye and make sure that the full FoV is visible with the open eye. Switch which eye is open without moving your head and see how much of the FoV is visible with the other eye. At this point you will probably find you did a really bad job in step 1. Adjust the BV so that both eyes see the full FoV.
  3. Pick one eye and focus for that eye using the telescope focuser. Technically you should use something to cover one eye instead of closing it, but just closing an eye seems to work ok.
  4. Use the dioptre adjustment to focus the BV for the other eye. It may be easier to adjust the dioptre for one eye than the other, for instance if you start with both dioptres wound fully in and can only adjust by winding one out.
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It’s trial and error for everyone with binoviewers Brian, particularly for solar use. Everyone’s eyes, IPDs, scopes and eyepieces are different, so everyone’s experience is unique too - at least in my experience. The main issues for solar are getting the magnification and the framing of the disc right through the blocking filter. As said above most set ups require a barlow to come to focus so it’s a case of trying to keep the power down, particularly if seeing is an issue. I had a pair of WO BVs and they performed very well in a Lunt 60, so hoping you’ll be fine.

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Thanks Mark 

I'll be trying them with 10 & 15mm BFs and the supplied EPs and Barlow to begin with 

but if a success I'll have to seek out a lower powered pair ect ... Will see what transpires 🙂

Edited by Solar B
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