Rowan AZ100 Mount Owners Thread

[Space Hopper]

Nearly 5 years late to the party, but i'm here now 😀

Purchased this used, but its a beauty, and fully kitted out

Still feeling my way around with the motor control software, but i'll get there. A bit of a learning curve when you are used to easy push-to with a Nexus DSC.

Getting a nice balance with my refractor & binoviewers is proving a challenge, but again, i'll get there.

Hope you like it 🙂

 

I'm also experimenting with power requirements and battery placements.

[Stephenstargazer]

Looks great 😊. Still a bif of learning curve but you can also control the motor mount with a DSC, so at least the alignment, catalogues etc are familiar.

Edited September 17 by Stephenstargazer

[Deadlake]

On 17/09/2024 at 00:44, Space Hopper said:

Getting a nice balance with my refractor & binoviewers is proving a challenge, but again, i'll get there.

I did not get a great balance until I got the Y axis adapter. In action below with quite a heavy stack on the back and perfectly balanced.
Even with an FT3545 an extension tube is required to get focus with a TV 67 mm EP, so quite a moment of torque acting there.

Edited September 18 by Deadlake

[JTEC]

Hi @Space Hopper. In case it’s of interest, I too have my TEC 140 on the motorised AZ100, on the Berlebach Planet tripod.  I bought the counterweight and bar and use it more because I forked out for it than out of practical need. Carrying the TEC, prism, binoviewer, etc, the mount itself is unchallenged and smooth and stable without the counterweight.  I think that a key factor in the setup’s overall stability is the very robust Planet tripod.  With a smaller base, lighter tripod, I think that overall balance - inclination to tip - would be an issue.  Before the Planet, I had the setup on a pier and everything was, as you’d expect, solid as a rock.  I do find striking a nice balance of scope with different accessories on the mount quite delicate.  Before I had the motors fitted, despite lots of experience, I found it quite tricky and, even with the adjustment optimised as best I could, precise positioning and following was not helped by the torque and ‘twang’ in the slow  motion cables.  The motors stabilise things somewhat.
Overall, it’s a terrific mount and pretty well perfect, imv, for the 140. As an aside and unless I’ve missed something, I’d really like to see progress with the much talked about hand-controller, which I think would make an exceptional mount even more user-friendly and versatile.

Edited September 18 by JTEC

[Deadlake]

20 minutes ago, JTEC said:

As an aside and unless I’ve missed something, I’d really like to see progress with the much talked about hand-controller, which I think would make an exceptional mount even more user-friendly and versatile.

@swsantos has the hand controller. He is away on a trip plus the hand controller  requires a software update to work to the AZ100 to function.

[heliumstar]

Got my motors yesterday and will fit them sometime this week but what I'm actually waiting for is Rowan tripod!

[josefk]

Just to chip in my twopenneth worth on the Y-axis plate. I held off on this part feeling it was a bit of a luxury item (i was quite happily balanced most of the time without it) and anyway i could get some weight below the horizontal centre line of the scope using the battery i have for dew bands etc mounted on the offside of the mount (and below the pivot) and this felt like it was enough to counteract any rearwards rollover imbalance.

Anyway somehow i have ended up fitting one after all and I set things up at home to achieve X and Y balance. Last night at first use it was kind of revelatory - i had the scope in such perfect balance i could leave it pointing where i liked with the altitude clutch fully off, i just added a bit of tension back on to the clutch to use the altitude slomo.

I have to redo the y-axis balancing exercise at some point in the next few days because i'm making other changes to my set-up (finder) and it seems getting the maximum benefit out of the Y-axis plate needs attention to very small adjustments (it is very sensitive to small changes) but if i can achieve the same sweet spot again i'll be very happy.

An unlooked for extra benefit is that i am using the eyepiece counter balance shaft on the rear (projecting towards me) and it made for a nice extra handle - it should help me curtail my bad habit of steering the scope using the diagonal.

Bravo Rowan! 

 

[Space Hopper]

Thankyou chaps for all your comments / suggestions.

I currently have the two saddle plates and a pan / tilt handle with the small 750g Rowan counterweight on 'Saddle B' , so am experimenting with that and moving the weight up and down.

I have an observing buddy with his own Y axis adjuster  on his AZ100 and he whole heartedly recommends it.

He's only using a much lighter 125mm doublet though.

 

Regarding the upcoming hand controller, i had a good chat with Derek at Saturdays IAS.

They had one on their display mount, and its currently at its final stage of development.

Derek told me it would be ready for release 'in a few weeks' so i'll probably order that, and the Y plate at the same time.

[josefk]

6 hours ago, josefk said:

Just to chip in my twopenneth worth on the Y-axis plate. I held off on this part feeling it was a bit of a luxury item (i was quite happily balanced most of the time without it) and anyway i could get some weight below the horizontal centre line of the scope using the battery i have for dew bands etc mounted on the offside of the mount (and below the pivot) and this felt like it was enough to counteract any rearwards rollover imbalance.

Anyway somehow i have ended up fitting one after all and I set things up at home to achieve X and Y balance. Last night at first use it was kind of revelatory - i had the scope in such perfect balance i could leave it pointing where i liked with the altitude clutch fully off, i just added a bit of tension back on to the clutch to use the altitude slomo.

I have to redo the y-axis balancing exercise at some point in the next few days because i'm making other changes to my set-up (finder) and it seems getting the maximum benefit out of the Y-axis plate needs attention to very small adjustments (it is very sensitive to small changes) but if i can achieve the same sweet spot again i'll be very happy.

An unlooked for extra benefit is that i am using the eyepiece counter balance shaft on the rear (projecting towards me) and it made for a nice extra handle - it should help me curtail my bad habit of steering the scope using the diagonal.

Bravo Rowan! 

 

i feel like Baldrick from Blackadder. Doh!

When i first set this Y-axis plate up for balance in the Y-axis i kept demounting my scope to move the saddle a few mm then tested balance again, the trial and error method took maybe 30 or 40 minutes.  I've just reset the Y-balance to account for a slightly repositioned finder and done it more perfectly than before and in less than 5-min, maybe less than 2-mins and I now i understand why it is an easy field adjustment if you would swap scopes in a session.

My epiphany came because i was feeling lazy and  i didn't demount the scope from the mount while preparing to adjust it - i just eased the Y-plate-to-saddle machine screws off a bit and with the scope pointing vertically simply pushed the saddle "across" (i.e. down) a bit till it sat perfectly still pointing vertically. Instant perfect balance XY.

I now understand why the extra screws on the stop bolts are screws you can tighten by hand - you can basically use them to push the saddle into balance - virtually on the fly.

To be fair all the necessary information for this 'hack" is in Rowan's instructions - i just didn't read them very carefully 🙂 

Now the thing is worth every penny and more. Impressed.

 

 

[Deadlake]

17 hours ago, josefk said:

i feel like Baldrick from Blackadder. Doh!

When i first set this Y-axis plate up for balance in the Y-axis i kept demounting my scope to move the saddle a few mm then tested balance again, the trial and error method took maybe 30 or 40 minutes.  I've just reset the Y-balance to account for a slightly repositioned finder and done it more perfectly than before and in less than 5-min, maybe less than 2-mins and I now i understand why it is an easy field adjustment if you would swap scopes in a session.

My epiphany came because i was feeling lazy and  i didn't demount the scope from the mount while preparing to adjust it - i just eased the Y-plate-to-saddle machine screws off a bit and with the scope pointing vertically simply pushed the saddle "across" (i.e. down) a bit till it sat perfectly still pointing vertically. Instant perfect balance XY.

I now understand why the extra screws on the stop bolts are screws you can tighten by hand - you can basically use them to push the saddle into balance - virtually on the fly.

To be fair all the necessary information for this 'hack" is in Rowan's instructions - i just didn't read them very carefully 🙂 

Now the thing is worth every penny and more. Impressed.

 

 

Have you got the knobs for the Y adapter?

The knobs are expensive from Rowan but can also be sourced from Amazon.

I balance the scope horizontally and then rotate the scope vertically.
Then pull the saddle in the Y adapter left or right untill balance is achieved.

Pushing the scope around with a finger due for clutches being off makes sweeping around the skies very enjoyable.

Edited September 19 by Deadlake

[swsantos]

On 18/09/2024 at 13:52, josefk said:

i feel like Baldrick from Blackadder. Doh!

When i first set this Y-axis plate up for balance in the Y-axis i kept demounting my scope to move the saddle a few mm then tested balance again, the trial and error method took maybe 30 or 40 minutes.  I've just reset the Y-balance to account for a slightly repositioned finder and done it more perfectly than before and in less than 5-min, maybe less than 2-mins and I now i understand why it is an easy field adjustment if you would swap scopes in a session.

My epiphany came because i was feeling lazy and  i didn't demount the scope from the mount while preparing to adjust it - i just eased the Y-plate-to-saddle machine screws off a bit and with the scope pointing vertically simply pushed the saddle "across" (i.e. down) a bit till it sat perfectly still pointing vertically. Instant perfect balance XY.

I now understand why the extra screws on the stop bolts are screws you can tighten by hand - you can basically use them to push the saddle into balance - virtually on the fly.

To be fair all the necessary information for this 'hack" is in Rowan's instructions - i just didn't read them very carefully 🙂 

Now the thing is worth every penny and more. Impressed.

 

 

Here is a video I made describing this, Note that the YAB knobs are a must in my opinion.

[Space Hopper]

Thanks Steve for posting that.

I will order one together with the new hand controller when it's available (and i have some £££)

 

A separate question if i may :

I'm looking to order a small 'Tracer LiPo cell' to power the motors on the Rowan and as ever, i'm a bit confused with what i need.

Watts, Amps, Milli amps, Ohms, DC, AC, Amp hours, have perplexed me since school days.

Quote : "The Rowan mount draws between 0.8 and 1.1A 12v DC - a 2 Amp power supply is required, DC connector 5.5mm DC jack with 2.5mm centre pin"

So i f i assume it draws around an Amp if i were to buy a 12v 4 Ah battery it would last around 4 hours ?? And a 12v 8 Ah battery would last around 8 hours ?? Is it that simple ?

I like the Tracers as while expensive, they are good quality and nice and compact. They also sell a 'bullet'  lead to plug into the cell and go straight into the Rowan motor controller (10x5.5x2.5 centre positive)

so less cabling without all that 12v cigarette lighter plug shenanigan's 

https://tracerpower.com/products/lithium-lipo-batteries/

 

 

Edited September 28 by Space Hopper

[Deadlake]

29 minutes ago, Space Hopper said:

m looking to order a small 'Tracer LiPo cell' to power the motors on the Rowan and as ever, i'm a bit confused with what i need.

Actually have a look at using small rig mount and batteries.

On sale on Amazon at present, but a Small Rig Mini V Mount battery plate will connect directly to the AZ100 and then you can attach a Small Rig battery to it. With the correct connector you can just carry the whole setup straight out and no need to concern yourself with cable tangles. 

If you search on CN there is an example of this setup.
 

 

[swsantos]

Part of the AZ100 battery challenge is where to put it when in use. Some Velcro theirs to the top of the altitude motor housing, others who only mount one telescope might use the unused saddle, and others put a larger battery on the ground under the tripod. For a while I had a Talentcell battery sitting atop my azimuth motor (there is one model at least that fits there) held there by neodymium magnets which worked pretty well as I was able to carry the whole setup outside slung over my shoulder and the battery would stay in place. I was never really happy though with a magnetic or Velcro setup because I prefer solid failsafe solutions and since I do not use the tablet attachment point preferring to hold my tablet with SkySafari in my hand I decided to adapt the tablet holder attachment point to hold a Mini V Mount battery and for me it is a great solution that is solid with enough power for about 2-3 nights of no-dew-heaters observing.

 

Here is my detailed Cloudynights post regarding that…

My new AZ100 battery solution

 

Edited September 28 by swsantos

[Stephenstargazer]

 

17 hours ago, Space Hopper said:

And a 12v 8 Ah battery would last around 8 hours ?? Is it that simple ?

No!  First of all what matters is the peak demand for current which is why Rowan recommend a supply of at least 2A at 12v. As batteries discharge the voltage they supply falls quite markedly and they may not provide enough to power the mount. When slewing the Rowan likes 12v (or it can stutter) whether in the first minute or  hours later. So you need a battery that will be providing good voltage for all your 4hr session. This information is not always quoted. Tracers and similar batteries are well made, but intended for running lamps (nice steady load) not  motors (variable with high peaks).

In my experience the solution is to double the size of battery, So think about 12 Ah at 12v (mAh is at 5v) When part discharged you will still get close to 12v. Always start with a full charge. I found a very versatile battery (made for Carp fishers !) with handy USB outlets but the not so nice cigarlighter. Proved reliable and lighter than sealed lead acid types, my version is not wireless. 

https://ridgemonkey.co.uk/product/vault-c-smart-42150

The only good bit about cigarlighter plug is you can put an appropriate fuse in. Shorting a 12v battery is quite hairy as the wires melt. Sealed lead acid batteries are way cheaper and will charge to 12.6v so could be smaller, I have used 7Ah capacity with success up to 3hrs.

 

Edited September 29 by Stephenstargazer
Typos

[Space Hopper]

Thanks @Stephenstargazer

Pricey things aren't they, these lithium batteries ? !! 🫢

[Deadlake]

2 hours ago, Space Hopper said:

Thanks @Stephenstargazer

Pricey things aren't they, these lithium batteries ? !! 🫢

The small rig battery mentioned above is reduced from £250 to £150 at the moment on Amazon with Prime. 
I do not really need it as I've a LiPo battery and need to run dew heaters for a C11 some times.
 

Edited September 29 by Deadlake

[Stephenstargazer]

5 hours ago, Space Hopper said:

Pricey things aren't they, these lithium batteries ? !! 🫢

Yep, but sealed lead acid are cheap and very good if you dont need the lightest or smallest. That one is pricey because of 'wireless' feature but the plain version may still be found in stock?

May be wrong 'cos dont do camera stuff but are the Smallrig V batteries 14.6 V?

Edited September 29 by Stephenstargazer

[swsantos]

1 hour ago, Stephenstargazer said:

Yep, but sealed lead acid are cheap and very good if you dont need the lightest or smallest. That one is pricey because of 'wireless' feature but the plain version may still be found in stock?

May be wrong 'cos dont do camera stuff but are the Smallrig V batteries 14.6 V?

The Smallrig VB99 SE mini V is 12V / 3A out of its 12V barrel jack but it can output more voltage on the USB ports. The display screen shows the output voltage of each port in real time and the 12V DC port is regulated at 12V. I plug the AZ100 into the 12V output and the Tempest fans on my SCT into the USB-A port.

Edited September 29 by swsantos