PST 40 or Lunt 50, Help !!

[LukeSkywatcher]

A thought crossed my mind today. If i spend X amount on a Quark, why would i use it on a 100 euro scope (70mm Travel scope). Wouldnt i be better off using it on my 8" SCT?. That means i'd also need to buy a solar filter (ready made...please). Then another thought came to mind. The SCT, AFAIK wont find or track the Sun (for safety reasons). I suppose i could track it manually if i just want to observe it. This could be tricky.......looking at the computer screen and tracking with the scopes hand control. So, i find myself with a couple of Q's:

1/ Does the Quark need a computer (USB port) to be powered or can it run off of house mains?

2/ Can you look directly through the Quark EP to observe the Sun (obviously with safety filter in place). I havent read too much about them. Guess i have some homework to do.

[Davenn]

On ‎11‎/‎01‎/‎2018 at 07:12, LukeSkywatcher said:

 So, i find myself with a couple of Q's:

1/ Does the Quark need a computer (USB port) to be powered or can it run off of house mains?

2/ Can you look directly through the Quark EP to observe the Sun (obviously with safety filter in place). I havent read too much about them. Guess i have some homework to do.

 

1) A computer USB port doesn't supply enough current for the Quark. It requires around 1.5  Amps .... A USB port is around 500 - 700mA at most

If running portable ( usual situation)  then you need a DC-DC buck converter to go from the 12V of your car or other portable battery .... say a 12V 7.5AH gel battery

down to the 5V for the Quark ...... I use a buck converter I got from eBay ... eg ......

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DC-DC-Buck-Step-Down-Voltage-Regulator-Module-3-3v-5v-12v-19V-24V-5A-Adjustable/263319582315?_trkparms=aid%3D777003%26algo%3DDISCL.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140117125611%26meid%3D5d8af949ae7c461d979ca8699dc0fb50%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D352004193098&_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982

 

The 12V battery supplied power directly to my HEQ5 GOTO mount and the buck converter drops the 12V to 5V for the Quark

 

2)  not sure if I understand your Q correctly ?

  One end of the Quark goes into your scope ( my one is the Camera Quark so that end goes into the camera telephoto lens) and a camera or eyepiece on the other end for viewing or imaging

You cannot use the Quark without the scope/lens or eyepiece/camera

 

id that answer your Q ?

 

 

Dave

[Paul73]

I was wondering similar. 

Do you have to stick a filter over the big end of the scope. Or, is it just a case of taking a refractor in standard night time viewing guise and sticking a Quark unit between the focused and the eyepiece?

I’ve always been really impressed with Quark views at star parties.

Paul

[Davenn]

42 minutes ago, Paul73 said:

...............

Do you have to stick a filter over the big end of the scope. Or, is it just a case of taking a refractor in standard night time viewing guise and sticking a Quark unit between the focused and the eyepiece?

..............

Paul

 

Hi Paul

for any aperture 80mm or less, a filter isn't needed I use my Camera Quark on my Canon 100 - 400mm zoom without a full aperture filter (80mm aperture)

I did try with a single layer of Baader filter film and the sun disappeared from view

 

Dave

Edited January 12, 2018 by Davenn

[LukeSkywatcher]

4 hours ago, Davenn said:

 

1) A computer USB port doesn't supply enough current for the Quark. It requires around 1.5  Amps .... A USB port is around 500 - 700mA at most

If running portable ( usual situation)  then you need a DC-DC buck converter to go from the 12V of your car or other portable battery .... say a 12V 7.5AH gel battery

down to the 5V for the Quark ...... I use a buck converter I got from eBay ... eg ......

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DC-DC-Buck-Step-Down-Voltage-Regulator-Module-3-3v-5v-12v-19V-24V-5A-Adjustable/263319582315?_trkparms=aid%3D777003%26algo%3DDISCL.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140117125611%26meid%3D5d8af949ae7c461d979ca8699dc0fb50%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D352004193098&_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982

 

The 12V battery supplied power directly to my HEQ5 GOTO mount and the buck converter drops the 12V to 5V for the Quark

 

2)  not sure if I understand your Q correctly ?

  One end of the Quark goes into your scope ( my one is the Camera Quark so that end goes into the camera telephoto lens) and a camera or eyepiece on the other end for viewing or imaging

You cannot use the Quark without the scope/lens or eyepiece/camera

 

id that answer your Q ?

 

 

Dave

Ah ok, thanks. I get it now. The Quark is literally a Ha filter. You add an EP to view. I thought it was a filter and EP all in one. 

[Davenn]

17 hours ago, LukeSkywatcher said:

Ah ok, thanks. I get it now. The Quark is literally a Ha filter. You add an EP to view. I thought it was a filter and EP all in one. 

 

Yes

so you add a telescope or lens in front and an eyepiece or camera behind

The Daystar Ha Quarks come in 2 varieties ....

1)  a Prominence filter ... approx. 0.7 Angstrom bandwidth at the Ha line and tuneable a little either side of that

As the name suggests it is primarily for Prominence viewing, tho it does give reasonable views of "surface" disk features

 

2) a Chromosphere filter ... approx. 0.5 Angstrom bandwidth at the Ha line and tuneable a little either side of that

and it gives much better views of the disk features but still retains reasonable views of the prominences

here's a link to the main Daystar site, just in case you didn't have it

http://www.daystarfilters.com/

 

Dave

 

[Stu]

22 hours ago, Davenn said:

I use my Camera Quark on my Canon 100 - 400mm zoom without a full aperture filter

That sounds interesting, how do you attach the Quark to the zoom lens? Is it a different model of Quark?

[Pig]

Yes that does sound very intriguing ?

[Stu]

22 hours ago, Davenn said:

I did try with a single layer of Baader filter film and the sun disappeared from view

Yes, that's what I would expect. The Quark needs the full intensity of the sun in the Ha frequency which it then filters down to an even tighter bandwidth. The Baader film reduces the intensity of light across the entire spectrum by 99.99 something percent to make it safe, using this with a Quark means there is simply not enough light for the Ha features to be visible. An ERF is what you need if you are above the 80mm aperture.

[Stu]

9 hours ago, Pig said:

Yes that does sound very intriguing ?

Intriguing enough for a google search!

http://www.daystarfilters.com/Quark/CameraQuark.shtml

I guess if you have a decent 400mm lens, it's a great option for full disk Ha photography.

[LukeSkywatcher]

11 hours ago, Davenn said:

 

Yes

so you add a telescope or lens in front and an eyepiece or camera behind

The Daystar Ha Quarks come in 2 varieties ....

1)  a Prominence filter ... approx. 0.7 Angstrom bandwidth at the Ha line and tuneable a little either side of that

As the name suggests it is primarily for Prominence viewing, tho it does give reasonable views of "surface" disk features

 

2) a Chromosphere filter ... approx. 0.5 Angstrom bandwidth at the Ha line and tuneable a little either side of that

and it gives much better views of the disk features but still retains reasonable views of the prominences

here's a link to the main Daystar site, just in case you didn't have it

http://www.daystarfilters.com/

 

Dave

 

Thanks for the info. I'm thinking the prom filter is the way to go but that limits you to observing proms. Would the Chromo model be a better option as it offers up proms and surface details. With the 2nd model, is the quality of the view of proms degraded by much?. It most likely would be used with my 70mm refrac scope because i want the setup to be as portable as possible. 

Edited January 13, 2018 by LukeSkywatcher

[Pig]

1 hour ago, Stu said:

Intriguing enough for a google search!

http://www.daystarfilters.com/Quark/CameraQuark.shtml

I guess if you have a decent 400mm lens, it's a great option for full disk Ha photography.

It might even be ok visually at the same time... Are camera screens up to to it.?

[Pig]

16 minutes ago, LukeSkywatcher said:

Thanks for the info. I'm thinking the prom filter is the way to go but that limits you to observing proms. Would the Chromo model be a better option as it offers up proms and surface details. With the 2nd model, is the quality of the view of proms degraded by much?. It most likely would be used with my 70mm refrac scope because i want the setup to be as portable as possible. 

Luke, I am not sure if you remember Aaron (Joves) who used to come on SGL but he had both versions and I remember him saying the chromosphere version was almost as good as the prominence version on proms but not vicerversa ......but I personally have only viewed with the chromosphere version.... Hope this helps ?

[Stu]

16 minutes ago, Pig said:

Luke, I am not sure if you remember Aaron (Joves) who used to come on SGL but he had both versions and I remember him saying the chromosphere version was almost as good as the prominence version on proms but not vicerversa ......but I personally have only viewed with the chromosphere version.... Hope this helps ?

Paul, everything I have read and experienced says go for the Chromosphere version. The surface detail is better and the proms are still excellent.

Regarding scopes, I know that there is a certain school of though that the scope 'doesn't matter as much' as with astro, and regarding CA this is true, but it is my belief that cheaper achro scopes tend to have other criteria which can rob you of detail and contrast, such as spherical abberation. I think it is worth using a better quality scope, an ED doublet for instance in order to get the best out of the Quark. You could stay small with say a little 61mm William Optics, or go a little larger to an 80ED but I do think it would be worth it.

[Davenn]

12 hours ago, Stu said:

That sounds interesting, how do you attach the Quark to the zoom lens? Is it a different model of Quark?

 

2 hours ago, Stu said:

Intriguing enough for a google search!

http://www.daystarfilters.com/Quark/CameraQuark.shtml

There ya go, you answered you own question

it works well ... the Camera Quark comes with all adaptors to use it with a Canon ( or Nikon - if you choose that model) lens and camera and also to use it as a normal Quark

with a telescope and eyepiece or variations of those arrangements .... a very versatile arrangement

 

I have to say again, as I have in other threads, My Lunt LS60THa still gets much more use, mainly due to its ease of use

 

Dave

Edited January 13, 2018 by Davenn

[Pig]

Why am I calling you Luke ??? I mean’t Paul ?

[LukeSkywatcher]

1 hour ago, Stu said:

Paul, everything I have read and experienced says go for the Chromosphere version. The surface detail is better and the proms are still excellent.

Regarding scopes, I know that there is a certain school of though that the scope 'doesn't matter as much' as with astro, and regarding CA this is true, but it is my belief that cheaper achro scopes tend to have other criteria which can rob you of detail and contrast, such as spherical abberation. I think it is worth using a better quality scope, an ED doublet for instance in order to get the best out of the Quark. You could stay small with say a little 61mm William Optics, or go a little larger to an 80ED but I do think it would be worth it.

Im not really looking to buy a new scope for solar or other observing. Would my 8SE be good to use with the Quark?. Its less portable, but not by much really. I think i will go for the Chromo model. Same price, so that isnt a factor. I know from images i have seen that there is lots of surface detail to be seen (snakes etc). 

Im still none the wiser how to power it. If someone could point me in the direction of a power source, that would be great. Off the shelf please. I have zero DIY skills, so soldering stuff and wiring is out of the question.

Edited January 13, 2018 by LukeSkywatcher

[LukeSkywatcher]

1 hour ago, Pig said:

Why am I calling you Luke ??? I mean’t Paul ?

Been called worse.

Time waits for nobody. I have just in the last couple of mins placed an order for a new Chromo Quark. I stupidly didnt order a 1.25". Looking at the official daystar site, i cant see anywhere if there is a 1.25" or 2" model. My scope (70mm) is a 1.25" EP scope. 

Will the Quark fit?.

My SCT can take both.

P.S.~Quark is the 2nd most expensive thing ive bought in 10 yrs of buying astro gear. If it is ANYTHING like my Hershel wedge (im sure its better).............worth it.

Edited January 13, 2018 by LukeSkywatcher

[Pig]

55 minutes ago, LukeSkywatcher said:

Im not really looking to buy a new scope for solar or other observing. Would my 8SE be good to use with the Quark?. Its less portable, but not by much really. I think i will go for the Chromo model. Same price, so that isnt a factor. I know from images i have seen that there is lots of surface detail to be seen (snakes etc). 

Im still none the wiser how to power it. If someone could point me in the direction of a power source, that would be great. Off the shelf please. I have zero DIY skills, so soldering stuff and wiring is out of the question.

There is a version of the Quark that can be used with SCT’s but you will have to check it out.  The originals were for refractors only and care must be taken not to mix them up.

The link below is all you will need to power a Quark, or you can use the mains adapter it comes with. It simply plugs  into the USB micro port on the side of the unit.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-PowerCore-20100-Capacity-Technology-Black/dp/B00VJSGT2A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1515882945&sr=8-1&keywords=anka+power+bank

 

Edited January 13, 2018 by Pig

[LukeSkywatcher]

8 minutes ago, Pig said:

The originals were for refractors only and care must be taken not to mix them up.

The Chromo i bought is an original, so fine for my refrac?.

[LukeSkywatcher]

28 minutes ago, Pig said:

There is a version of the Quark that can be used with SCT’s but you will have to check it out.  The originals were for refractors only and care must be taken not to mix them up.

The link below is all you will need to power a Quark, or you can use the mains adapter it comes with. It simply plugs  into the USB micro port on the side of the unit.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-PowerCore-20100-Capacity-Technology-Black/dp/B00VJSGT2A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1515882945&sr=8-1&keywords=anka+power+bank

 

I'd like to just hook it into the house mains (plug socket in the wall). So, i can plug it into the wall and then into micro port on the other end?. 

Ive always been impressed with images through a Quark. I know imaging is a skill set in its own. If the views are anything like images i will be happy and obviously, it will lead me to imaging.

Edited January 13, 2018 by LukeSkywatcher

[LukeSkywatcher]

I'll still use my W/L Hershel wedge. I do love the view it gives. I just wanted something more, so Ha was the obvious choice.

Can you see proms etc developing,moving in real time (given that sunlight takes 8 mins to reach us)?

I guess my question is, is it better to image the Sun in Ha or observe?.

Edited January 13, 2018 by LukeSkywatcher

[Merlin66]

I enjoy both visual and solar imaging.

Yes, over a period of minutes you can see the development of the proms and movements around sun spots and active areas.

Imaging a sequence with an image say every five minutes over a period of a couple of hours dramatically shows the dynamic nature of the proms and the solar surface in general.

 

[Stu]

18 minutes ago, LukeSkywatcher said:

 

Can you see proms etc developing,moving in real time (given that sunlight takes 8 mins to reach us)?

 

Simple answer is yes Paul. The delay makes no difference, it is still real time, just delayed.... a bit like a delayed TV broadcast.

Certain features such as flares and lift off proms can move surprisingly quickly, within minutes. More often the features are slower moving but certainly fast enough to detect detail changes.

[LukeSkywatcher]

6 minutes ago, Stu said:

Simple answer is yes Paul. The delay makes no difference, it is still real time, just delayed.... a bit like a delayed TV broadcast.

Certain features such as flares and lift off proms can move surprisingly quickly, within minutes. More often the features are slower moving but certainly fast enough to detect detail.

Thats what i was wondering. On the Suns surface its second by second........its an 8 min delay to us here on Earth, but second by second in our real time.

Im very excited about solar observing in Ha. Not to mention getting started in Solar imaging. 

Edited January 13, 2018 by LukeSkywatcher