Davenn

outstanding work ! as several have said .... I would really like to do this too

outstanding detail in there Dave

Thanks Charl Flamin clouds ☹️ I set the HEQ5, scope and laptop up at work during my lunch break .... whatever it takes aye

The Sun, 14 May 2019 One significant active region AR2741 One reasonable prominence on the limb LUNT LS60THa Solar scope, ASI 1600MM and ZWO Tilt Adjuster Cheers Dave

I am happy to report that Lunt, true to their word, " we can help you with that problem", did so very promptly and I had a new blue filter glass from them arrive within 5 days from the USA to Australia ( I still haven't had time to replace it hahaha been very busy) With their awesome service, I will recommend Lunt to everyone. Support of products is very important cheers Dave

Hi Sara and Merlin I have discovered the opposite. I took off that orange rear back plate of the BF and was very surprised to find the tinted mirror on the inner side of that orange plate was quite film covered. But even worse, the output filter glass was shockingly film covered on it's inside surface !! I have cleaned that mirror and the inside surface of the output filter. I suspect that MOST of the poor seeing and imaging I have suffered lately and blamed on poor atmospheric seeing, has really been the yucky film layers on all 3 surfaces ... 1) outside of the blue input filter glass 2) the mirror 3) the inside of the output filter glass Now, hats off and major kudos to LUNT. After emailing them and including the pic of the blue filter glass showing the 2 growing spots. Thy emailed back asking for the serial# of my LS60THa and a snail mail mailing address They have already dispatched a new filter glass !! With all the crap companies out there these days, here is one who still believes in good customer service !! Well Done Lunt Dave

Thanks for your post, Alan I went and checked my B1200 filter and it is also showing a lot of grime and worse still, there are two "growths" on opposite sides of the ERF glass that other people are reporting, one much larger than the other. ☹️ I will contact Lunt, hopefully they will be willing to send a new filter glass to Australia My scope isn't even a year old yet it is stored inside the house in clean and dry conditions and the B1200 doesn't leave the scope so am mot sure how all the grimy film over the filter glass got there ??? cheers Dave

uh huh ..... the Lunt isn't overly heavy and for the sort viewing and exposures it's very stable if I had a bigger scope to put on it and doing nite viewing/photography, I would definitely throw one or both of the counter weights on it Dave

There ya go, you answered you own question it works well ... the Camera Quark comes with all adaptors to use it with a Canon ( or Nikon - if you choose that model) lens and camera and also to use it as a normal Quark with a telescope and eyepiece or variations of those arrangements .... a very versatile arrangement I have to say again, as I have in other threads, My Lunt LS60THa still gets much more use, mainly due to its ease of use Dave

Yes so you add a telescope or lens in front and an eyepiece or camera behind The Daystar Ha Quarks come in 2 varieties .... 1) a Prominence filter ... approx. 0.7 Angstrom bandwidth at the Ha line and tuneable a little either side of that As the name suggests it is primarily for Prominence viewing, tho it does give reasonable views of "surface" disk features 2) a Chromosphere filter ... approx. 0.5 Angstrom bandwidth at the Ha line and tuneable a little either side of that and it gives much better views of the disk features but still retains reasonable views of the prominences here's a link to the main Daystar site, just in case you didn't have it http://www.daystarfilters.com/ Dave

Hi Paul for any aperture 80mm or less, a filter isn't needed I use my Camera Quark on my Canon 100 - 400mm zoom without a full aperture filter (80mm aperture) I did try with a single layer of Baader filter film and the sun disappeared from view Dave

Yeah, I'm so pleased I went with the B1200 filter as well, the wider FOV makes a huge difference for viewing ease my Lunt LS60THa is fitted with a Crayford 10:1 microfocuser ... it's really nice for sharp focussing Yes, my tuning wheel works ... but it is pretty subtle .... I find it really an end to end of tuning range that makes the difference between proms and surface features I just don't know if it should be working better ?? haha I would like to see through a scope that has the pressure tuning just to see the difference Dave

1) A computer USB port doesn't supply enough current for the Quark. It requires around 1.5 Amps .... A USB port is around 500 - 700mA at most If running portable ( usual situation) then you need a DC-DC buck converter to go from the 12V of your car or other portable battery .... say a 12V 7.5AH gel battery down to the 5V for the Quark ...... I use a buck converter I got from eBay ... eg ...... https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DC-DC-Buck-Step-Down-Voltage-Regulator-Module-3-3v-5v-12v-19V-24V-5A-Adjustable/263319582315?_trkparms=aid%3D777003%26algo%3DDISCL.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140117125611%26meid%3D5d8af949ae7c461d979ca8699dc0fb50%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D352004193098&_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982 The 12V battery supplied power directly to my HEQ5 GOTO mount and the buck converter drops the 12V to 5V for the Quark 2) not sure if I understand your Q correctly ? One end of the Quark goes into your scope ( my one is the Camera Quark so that end goes into the camera telephoto lens) and a camera or eyepiece on the other end for viewing or imaging You cannot use the Quark without the scope/lens or eyepiece/camera id that answer your Q ? Dave

my current solar observing setup (without the ZWO ASI 178MC imager attached)

I have both ... the Lunt LS60THA and the Quark Camera Chromosphere The Lunt gets all the use, The quark drives me nutz having to wait for it to come to temperature at startup and then every time I retune The ~AU$2000 quark has been used maybe 3 times Dave