Astrokev's ROR - The Build

[JamesF]

The water-based stuff is fine.  The contact adhesive smells seriously dangerous though.

James

[Astrokev]

7 hours ago, JamesF said:

Just went out and had a quick peek at the containers.  The water-based stuff says not below 4C.  Not sure that bodes well for the next few days, though if the Sun is out and you can get it done fairly sharpish in the morning then the heat absorbed by the black EPDM through the day might help with the adhesive.

Perhaps hanging the EPDM over your other shed tomorrow even if the weather isn't good enough will help the creases drop out anyhow?

James

Thanks James. I'd considered putting the EPDM in place and then waiting for the weather to warm up. This will at least protect the roof and remove the risk of the tarp leaking (which it has a tendency to do!). To do this though I'll have to buy a few more G clamps since I only have 3. You seem to have dozens!

[Gina]

The water based adhesive shouldn't have and inflammable fumes.  Can't remember now.

[Bizibilder]

Daytime temperatures (13-15° C) - especially with the Sun warming the EDPM should be OK.  I would suggest you put battens along ALL edges of the roof to have something to attach the EDPM to (sorry if you have thought of this already!).  I would also suggest that you need two people to do the job - Mrs Bizibilder helped with my own roof.  So much easier to have one person on each side.  Also a long handled roller (sold for painting behind radiators) is really useful for getting the glue in places other rollers cannot reach.  Also a spare clean roller helps to push the EDPM into close contact with the glue - but be careful not to stretch it.  Talking of stretching - you may be better off gluing down on a relatively cool day, in the heat of summer the EDPM will have expanded quite a bit and will shrink as the temperature drops.  Hope these notes help.

[JamesF]

3 hours ago, Astrokev said:

To do this though I'll have to buy a few more G clamps since I only have 3. You seem to have dozens!

We do have quite a few   However, (ssshhh!) I have bodged temporary clamps from offcuts of timber and a few screws before now.

James

[Gina]

Me too!  ?

[Astrokev]

Well, the EPDM is on!

This morning was taken up trying to help my daughter with her Uni dissertation (drawing parallels between art and science!), so only found a few hours this afternoon to work on the obsy.

I smoothed off all the joins between the jigsaw of OSB boarding, and rounded off the edges slightly, which took an age. Plus it was freezing on the roof! Then dug out the roll of EPDM from the back of the shed and nearly killed myself getting it onto the roof. Since it's too chilly to put down adhesive, and the creases in the rubber clearly weren't going anywhere, I followed @JamesF suggestion and will leave it loose on the roof until the weather is warm enough to stick it down. But at least it's up and, by definition, I hope the obsy is technically watertight. Hooray!

At least I can carry on with other work - I guess the next job is making a door. Should be interesting ? 

[JamesF]

Now we just have to hope the weather doesn't stay this way for until April

Here at least, it looks as though it might pick up towards the end of next week, but I'll believe that when we get much closer.

James

[Dr_Ju_ju]

Good luck with the weather, Metcheck is showing sleet for tomorrow evening....

[Astrokev]

10 hours ago, Bizibilder said:

 I would suggest you put battens along ALL edges of the roof to have something to attach the EDPM to (sorry if you have thought of this already!).  

Thanks Roger. 

I assume you're referring to the angled edges? Good spot!

I do plan to put battens along these edges, but I needed to leave them off to enable me to screw the cladding to the eaves. With these battens in place there wouldn't have been room to access the top edge of the cladding. 

So, the order of events regarding finishing the roof are - 1. Paint the cladding. 2. Attach battens along the eaves. 3. Glue the EPDM. 

Thanks for your other suggestions. I have some experience laying the EPDM on the warm room, but the main roof will be more challenging I think!

[Astrokev]

2 hours ago, JamesF said:

Now we just have to hope the weather doesn't stay this way for until April

Here at least, it looks as though it might pick up towards the end of next week, but I'll believe that when we get much closer.

James

Yes, it reminds me of last autumn, when I paused the work on the foundations around this time. It was months before I could start again!

[yesyes]

At least now you can start work inside if the weather is not good.

 

[Astrokev]

11 minutes ago, yesyes said:

At least now you can start work inside if the weather is not good.

 

Hi Chris. Absolutely. Feels good to be on the inside without being dripped on ?

[Astrokev]

Miserable day today ? .

Bright but chilly this morning but I knew it was deteriorating quickly so didn't bother starting any work in the observatory. 

This afternoon the heavens opened and it just got colder. Instead I decided to be productive and started my tax return - yep it was THAT miserable!

Can't see it improving enough to allow me to get the adhesive on any day soon, so will leave the EPDM held down with clamps and left over lengths of wood. At least I can check that the inside stays dry. 

[JamesF]

I think we've got a few days of these colder temperatures yet, certainly.

James

[Astrokev]

The law according to sod coming to bear once again.

When you need it to be warm, it's bloomin' freezing. When the temperature isn't critical, it's baking and you break out into a sweat at the slightest exertion. Grrr!

[Davey-T]

Rebuilding my garden wall ATM so can do without it getting below freezing ⛄

Dave

[Astrokev]

1 hour ago, Davey-T said:

Rebuilding my garden wall ATM so can do without it getting below freezing ⛄

Dave

Ooh, that's a bit risky with frosty nights. At the very least make sure you cover any mortar work to reduce likelihood of frost damage. 

[Astrokev]

Looks a bit brighter today but still not warm enough to work on the roof covering. So, my thoughts are turning away from EPDM-mode, and am thinking about the internals. Lots still to do...

One job I need to prioritise is the fitting of some kind of latch mechanism to lock the roof down. At the moment, I've got a rope tying the roof to the floor joists just in case the wind wants to play games.

The often used solution is a toggle clamp latch as in the attached image. I've been looking at my roof and I've realised a problem. The obvious place to attach this type of latch is on the sides of the internal roof ie. on the bottom beams that hold the wheels. Unfortunately, the gap between the roof beams - in particular the wheel beam - and the cross-beam that separates the scope and warm room, is too small, being only a centimetre or so. There is therefore insufficient clearance to fit the top "capture" part of the latch without it fouling the cross-beam (and when I think about it, the edges of the sloping warm room roof aswell).

So, I need to put my creativity-hat on and think of a way around this. If anyone has any ideas or has tried other methods to stop a roof blowing off, I'd love to hear them ? 

Edited October 28, 2018 by Astrokev

[Bizibilder]

How about the "pins and holes" locking method  Pins and holes  As long as you have a drill you can make these easily enough - use bolts for the pins that only have partial thread, saw the thread off and file the ends "conical".  Just one bolt to lock/unlock.  Mine have survived several storms with no ill effects whatsoever.  The roof is very solidly locked down.

[Astrokev]

1 hour ago, Bizibilder said:

How about the "pins and holes" locking method  Pins and holes  As long as you have a drill you can make these easily enough - use bolts for the pins that only have partial thread, saw the thread off and file the ends "conical".  Just one bolt to lock/unlock.  Mine have survived several storms with no ill effects whatsoever.  The roof is very solidly locked down.

Thanks Roger. Yes using pins and holes looks a good alternative. I'll certainly consider this ? and see if I can work it into my design.

[Dr_Ju_ju]

Quick question, do you now, or likely in the future, want to 'automate' the locking\unlocking & movement of the roof ??   If so it may be worth considering some form of powered piston system ?

[Astrokev]

1 hour ago, Dr_Ju_ju said:

Quick question, do you now, or likely in the future, want to 'automate' the locking\unlocking & movement of the roof ??   If so it may be worth considering some form of powered piston system ?

Good question. I think it's very unlikely that I'll want to automate opening the roof, no, fun thought that would be. 

Even to open it in advance of an observing session, to allow the kit to equilibrate, I'll probably just open it manually. I can't see myself doing remote observing. 

[Gina]

Even though I do remote imaging I didn't think it worth bothering with motorising the roof though I did get a motor, sprockets and chain for the job.  When not in use I have the roof securely locked down so if I'm going to unlock it I might as well open it - only takes one finger.

[Astrokev]

Thought I'd brave the chill and try and do something on the observatory this afternoon.

Since I can't do much on the roof, I wondered which of the many other jobs I should do. Initially thought I ought to spend time clearing out the scope and warm rooms - they're a real mess! Then I thought, although the roof is hopefully water-tight (after a fashion), rain can still enter through the wackin' big hole in the wall where the door is going, so reckoned this was probably higher priority than the internals.

As can be seen I now have a hardwood door sill ? . The pic is before I drilled fixing holes. The sill is currently drying after a liberal dousing with preservative. Once dry I'll probably varnish it, as it's a shame to hide the lovely timber, and screw it in position. Then I'll start on the door itself - once I've designed it that is.

In the pic showing the pier, you can see the rope which is hopefully holding the roof down. It's tied to a wall stud before going under a floor joist and up to the roof (behind the pier) ?