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Ring and Dumbell Nebula

Dazzyt66

By Dazzyt66
in Getting Started With Imaging

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Dazzyt66

Dazzyt66

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First time at really trying my 1100d with my Mak on a DSO. Considering these are from my back garden last night I'm well chuffed! I guess now I need to work out how to process them properly as I think they could be loads better. There is some trailing on the Dumbell but at least you can see what it is! These are both single frames at 40s with a dark processed in DSS and Photoshop. Advice welcomed. ? PS who says Maks are only planetary...? Lol

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

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swag72

swag72

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A couple of things that would make an immediate improvement..... Use the longest exposures that you can before trailing sets in that way you will have nice round stars, which is always a great bonus! Also, take loads of exposures and stack them in DSS. That builds up the signal and will get you an easy picture to start processing. You could also do a lot more with calibration frames (more darks for example).... but just the trailing and multiple exposures would be a good starting point.

Well done!!! 

Hope my comments have helped :)

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Dazzyt66

Dazzyt66

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8 minutes ago, swag72 said:

A couple of things that would make an immediate improvement..... Use the longest exposures that you can before trailing sets in that way you will have nice round stars, which is always a great bonus! Also, take loads of exposures and stack them in DSS. That builds up the signal and will get you an easy picture to start processing. You could also do a lot more with calibration frames (more darks for example).... but just the trailing and multiple exposures would be a good starting point.

Well done!!! 

Hope my comments have helped :)

Thanks Sara, that does help. I should've also added that polar alignment was 'approximate' followed by 2 star alignment on the GOTO. I know if I want really decent images I have to pay more attention to setup as well. Hopefully there is another clear night on Sunday (according to forecast at mo) so I may get chance to try it all again. ?

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Dazzyt66

Dazzyt66

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2 minutes ago, Aaron F Johnson said:

Just curious what aperture on the mak...I am looking into doing some dso astrophotography and most likely will go with an entry level dslr, the 1100d is looking good in these shots for sure...I plan to use a mak for some of my shots as well...

It's a 150 pro on a HEQ5 GOTO. The camera I got second hand from eBay so isn't perfect but it has really given me a taste for imaging. I'm hoping to try similar shots using my ST80 on the mount to compare the differences... I guess I may then upgrade to a dedicated Astro camera...

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PatrickGilliland

PatrickGilliland

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Nice to get out there and get started. As Sara mentioned without guiding you need to get lots of shorter subs and stack them.  You will be surpised what pops out even from 30x30 seconds.  Of course the shorter you go the more you need don't be afraid of 100x20 seconds at this stage will be enough to blow you socks off.

For PA i would acquire Alignmaster c15€ take pic of star 1 then centre using software of handset, repeat for star two.  It then tells you required adj, you can take short subs on a loop as you adjust.  Repeat this 3-5 times until spot on.  First time takes getting used to then with practice you can to in under 10 minutes when required.

On my EQ6 this was how i did it and more than accurate enough with practice to go 15-20 minutes guided but easy would do 180 second subs unguided.

Once PA sorted and correct exposure time take lots of short pictures, i did a nice Lagoon with 120 seconds unguided here http://www.astrobin.com/196568/C/ as an example of what can be done (though this is on CCD still shows what stacking can acheive) - also start reading up about your calibration this will help with noise (darks and bias) and ensuring you release the maximum detail from each frame via flats.

Paddy

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spillage

spillage

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Great shots. Same camera as I have just got my hands on so nice too see what I can achieve. But I only have the goto eq5 mount.

Ran outside last night and rushed to get my first shots using the 1100d. Really need to get my mount set up better and my polar alignment was very much "that's near enough".

 

Next chance I get I will take my time and try to improve things although for my first dslr attempt I impressed myself.

 

What software did you use to adjust the dumbell image?

 

P.S I also used a 127 mak (my c6-n struggle to get focus..) with 90 sec exposure and 1600iso but not yet put my images through any software yet so these are just one frame.

 

 

ring.jpg

dumbell1.jpg

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Dazzyt66

Dazzyt66

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They are pretty good for single exposures! Very similar to my single frame versions. I think, like me, you will have to work on the PA and also reduce exposure times but do more frames. The iso is same as I am using but I may try 800 to see if that lessens noise still. I am VERY much the beginner at imaging so others here will give you lots a good and better advice.

I should also point out I ain't taking it too seriously. I'm not after awards or recognition but just like to have mementos of what I have seen with my naked eye (and for those long cloudy nights... Lol) but also to share with others. I have a number of friends and family who like to see what's there but can't (or won't!)  do the nights in the cold :)

I used Deep Sky Stacker initially which I find really easy to use. You'll need to use PIPP first to change your .cr2 frames to .tiff. For some reason DSS doesn't like the raw format from the 1100d - unless this has now been fixed. A tip here is to use 'join' mode. It sounds counter intuitive but it will drop all the converted .tiffs into one folder. If you use 'batch' it will put each file in its own folder which is a right pain in the ass when you come to use DSS! 

I then use either, or a mix of Photoshop  Express, Mix and Lightroom on my iPad which isn't ideal but I don't have a PC (I use Mrs T's laptop for the conversions). The Photoshop stuff is very much trial and error for me cos I'm a newbie to that too ?

Hope that helps? Anything else just ask :)

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alacant

alacant

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15 hours ago, Dazzyt66 said:

I used Deep Sky Stacker initially which I find really easy to use. You'll need to use PIPP first to change your .cr2 frames to .tiff. For some reason DSS doesn't like the raw format from the 1100d - unless this has now been fixed.

Hi. This version of Deep Sky Stacker works with the new .cr2 files. HTH.

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Dazzyt66

Dazzyt66

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On 11 August 2016 at 09:30, alacant said:

Hi. This version of Deep Sky Stacker works with the new .cr2 files. HTH.

I've just tried this and it still creates a 'thin strip' stacked image from .cr2 rather than the full image you get if you convert to .tif first in PIPP... Could be user error though... ?

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Dazzyt66

Dazzyt66

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It looks like you just need to spend more time processing. I've just had a quick go with it in Photoshop express altering exposure and contrast (hope that's ok) - there's loads of detail there that can be pulled out. Cropping it will show the ring in greater detail too ?

image.jpeg

 

 

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Dazzyt66

Dazzyt66

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16 hours ago, alacant said:

I had that too. Can't remember exactly but... Everything new, yes? It says 3.3.4 at top left. You have deleted the old text files and registered anew. Nothing selected here:

set.JPG

 

Sorted!!! User error as I expected - the .exe was still 3.3.2... ?

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Stub Mandrel

Stub Mandrel

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On 10/08/2016 at 18:22, Dazzyt66 said:

They are pretty good for single exposures! Very similar to my single frame versions. I think, like me, you will have to work on the PA and also reduce exposure times but do more frames. The iso is same as I am using but I may try 800 to see if that lessens noise still. I am VERY much the beginner at imaging so others here will give you lots a good and better advice.

I should also point out I ain't taking it too seriously. I'm not after awards or recognition but just like to have mementos of what I have seen with my naked eye (and for those long cloudy nights... Lol) but also to share with others. I have a number of friends and family who like to see what's there but can't (or won't!)  do the nights in the cold :)

I used Deep Sky Stacker initially which I find really easy to use. You'll need to use PIPP first to change your .cr2 frames to .tiff. For some reason DSS doesn't like the raw format from the 1100d - unless this has now been fixed. A tip here is to use 'join' mode. It sounds counter intuitive but it will drop all the converted .tiffs into one folder. If you use 'batch' it will put each file in its own folder which is a right pain in the ass when you come to use DSS! 

I then use either, or a mix of Photoshop  Express, Mix and Lightroom on my iPad which isn't ideal but I don't have a PC (I use Mrs T's laptop for the conversions). The Photoshop stuff is very much trial and error for me cos I'm a newbie to that too ?

Hope that helps? Anything else just ask :)

Download the CR2 codec from Microsoft and DSS will open the files - works fine with my 450D.

https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/download/details.aspx?id=26829

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