Exposure/timer setter for Canon Eos

[Galactic Wanderer]

Hey guys, do anyone of you know about a good exposure and timer setter for the Canon. For example, I can just type in to the remote saying I want 500 30 second exposures and I can eave it there.

 

I was thinking about this one;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Neewer-Shutter-Release-Hasselblad-PowerShot/dp/B004FKYBJM/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1470119205&sr=1-1&keywords=digital+time+shutter+release+remote+control

THnaks seb

[PeterCPC]

Have you considered using a laptop and a program like Backyard EOS?

Peter

[groberts]

An intervalometer, such as you illustrate, is a good idea and IMO an essential part of the astrophotographer's kit.  In addition and where possible a laptop is even better, something like Backyard or APT are good low cost choices or for free try the Canon EOS Utilities software that comes with Canon cameras or can be downloaded for free form their website; I have found Utilities to be a good simple programme. 

[Alien 13]

The options already mentioned are all good ways to control the camera but there are a couple of others..

Battery grip intervalometer, this allows you to fit two batteries so extending shooting time.

Magic lantern software, this adds an inbuilt option to the camera.

Wireless intervalometer like the Giga T pro 2, not cheap though.

If the Camera has wifi then you can use EOS util with a mobile phone.

Alan

[Tinker1947]

I used a battery driven power supply , 12v battery with a Buck Converter dropping the voltage down to in my case 7.4v there cheap to buy and fit in a small "Click and Lock" container sold in Morrison or most other Supermarkets. As for exposure times and settings ISO 800 and depending on how the tracking is 15 seconds to 120 seconds

Buck Converter.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/XL4015-5A-DC-DC-Voltage-Step-Down-Buck-Converter-like-LM2596-LED-Volt-meter-UK-/182071344571?hash=item2a644c3dbb:g:sLYAAOSwdU1W-p9o

[Bizibilder]

Seb - the remote release you quote will work well - I used one when starting out with DSO imaging.  The computer controlled systems do have a lot more functionality but also cost!  So for starting I would go for the £10 option and see how you get on.  You do have to keep an eye on the battery if you go for a long sequence but once you get to know your own kit you can allow for this (I bought a second battery for my 1000D and swapped over if I was imaging for more than two hours - especially on a cold winters night).  As I didn't have a guided mount at the time I used to use a maximum of 2 min exposures and take lots of them - maybe 100+ - then discard any that were not good before stacking.

You can also use it for taking dark frames (I used to do mine in the garage and keep them - take them about every 5°C when the opportunity arises and use the best temperature match with your lights).

[SteveNickolls]

Hi Seb,

I've been using some similar intervalometner to what you linked us to. It works ok, has it's work-around foibles, is cheap and while there is the short lead to the camera you don't need a long lead to a pc (or for that matter a pc to operate it). The downsides are (1) if it is like mine you can only turn off the device by taking the batteries out and (2) it takes a while to set the sequence for each series of exposures (initial delay time/ length of exposure/length of interval between exposures/number of exposures/turning off any beep mode and so if you're all set up to roll and then wonder if you have framed an object well, changing the settings to take take single shots is a right pain. I tend to turn off the camera, remove the intervalomenter and use my Canon remote to take such individual framing shots until I'm happy then turn off the camera, reinsert the intervalomenter and turn the camera back on-phew!

Cheers,
Steve

[kendg]

That is the exact intervalometer I have and it works a charm. I had another one that used a cr2032 battery but this one using 2 AAA batteries lasts a lot longer.

Once you start to use a laptop then BYEOS or APT are great pieces of software. 

 

[ian_bird]

If you go the laptop BackyardEOS route then one of these is really good. Plus it allows mirror lockup with delay.

http://www.store.shoestringastronomy.com/products_ds.htm

Cheers

Ian

[Fermenter]

I have the Phottix Aion and really like it.  I went through nearly half a dozen of the non-Canon brand wireless intervalometers before settling on this one.  Each one that I bought had some issue, some one thing that wouldn't work, or wouldn't work properly.  Finally I got this one and it works great, I just wish it worked on my Sony after I upgraded from my Canon 40D.

http://www.phottix.com/en/phottix-aion.html

[ronin]

I have one similar to the linked item, mine says "Shoot" as the make. Fairly easy to use with a couple of proviso's.

They (mine) has an initial delay, set to say 5 seconds - this seems to be to allow you to push the button, put the plastic bit somewhere and then run away.

Then it starts the important bit. It takes a (example) 30 second exposure, then it does a Wait time say 20 seconds, then you have a number of cycles so lets say 15 cycles. You get 15 exp each of 30 seconds with a wait time between of 20 seconds. Do not reduce the Wait time down to what you think should be  minimum. If you think to make it 5 seconds and the camnera takes 8 seconds to write data to the ard then you interrupt one process with another. A DSLR is a simple camera not a fairly powerful PC.

One aspect is that if you remove the batteries all this is lost and you have to reenter, no problem but do it at home before you head out.

I set mine for an exposure period a bit longer then that on the camera setting. You do not want the Remote telling the camera to start a new action while it is still doing something. Although any reasonable Wait time should take care of this.

The "difficult" aspect is the noise reduction DSLR option. If this is On on the camera then you need to take it into account in the Wait time. also means you need to increase the basic wait time. Using the above: You take a 30 second exposure, the DSLR does a 30 second NR exposure, you therefore really need to have a further 60 second Wait time. So the Exposure = 30 seconds, the Wait = 30(NR)+60 = 90 seconds I make the Wait = total exposure time for cooling of the sensor.

[AllanJ]

Here's what I use - If you have an Android tablet, have a look at DSLR Controller. You get a live view so that you can control focus, set various options and do multiple frames.

https://dslrcontroller.com/about.php

Allan

[happy-kat]

My cheap intervalometer turns itself off after a period of inactivity so I just leave it be. I also use my 7inch android tablet and dslr controller it is highly portable and makes focusing much easier as get that wrong and that's a session of images wasted.