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How do you store your expensive refractors


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I'm guessing any refractor or camera lens owner is well aware of the potential for fungus on optics and with fluorite and ED glass being particularly susceptible to the issue I was wondering how do members store their refractors with exotic glass ??

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To be honest Nick, I just keep my Tak in a Geoptik case with a desiccant cap in the focuser and a desiccant bag in the case. It gets used very frequently, for solar too so as I understand it, that's a good way of killing off anything which even thinks about growing! Never had any problems with any of my fracs. They always gets brought indoors and dried off over night if dewy.

I think the big risk is if you store one for a period and don't realize that it is damp. That happened to me once, was quite a surprise. The scope was in a good case, in what I thought was a dry place but when I checked it after a few months it was very damp inside. Took a bit of cleaning up, but still no permanent damage.

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I know sunlight is said to be a good preventative measure but I was surprised how heavy the ED120 is, so my ST120 remains my solar scope of choice although I'm sure I will be taking the ED out more in the future. all for good cause and all :D

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18 minutes ago, nightfisher said:

I know a company that will make bespoke made to measure flight type cases for refractors but dont know if i can post a link to his site

My ED120 came with a case Jules. I was thinking more of where members store the scope in general....... ambiently warm or cool room, attic or garage, heated or vented etc, etc, etc. With desiccant bags or some other preventative measures.

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There will only ever be an issue with fungal growth if the optics are left wet for a prolonged period. None of my past fluorites or ed refractors have ever had a problem in this regard. Of course all scopes get wet, especially here in the UK. I've often brought my scopes into the house when they've been dripping with dew or even caked with ice. The trick is to check your lens after each observing session and if its clear cap it and leave it capped. If its dewed or frozen then don't cap it! Just bring it back into the house and leave it to de-dew naturally at room temperature. Its worth checking theres no condensation between or behind the elements. If there is then leave the scope open at both ends overnight, then once its thoroughly clear cap it the next day. Personally, i wouldnt leave any refractor permenantly in an observatory, fluorite or otherwise, unless its too large to carry. If your refractor is too large to carry then you can afford to run dehumidifiers day and night. :icon_biggrin:

The same principle  applies  to storing the scope itself. Before its put to bed it should be dry and scope cases and bags should also contain desiccant just as a precaution. Its worth noting that moisture on a fluorite lens is not going to harm the fluorite. Damage will only occur if the lens is poorly cared for, or if you take it in the bath with you.

?+ ? + :duckie: =:crybaby2:

Mike 

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Two small fracs on a bookshelf - one on a mount in the lounge - one under the lounge coffee table - two larger ones in flight cases under the stairs. The fracs have to go there to make room available for the 2 maks, one sct, a newt, and dob lol :)

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5 hours ago, spaceboy said:

I'm guessing any refractor or camera lens owner is well aware of the potential for fungus on optics and with fluorite and ED glass being particularly susceptible to the issue I was wondering how do members store their refractors with exotic glass ??

Fluorite and ED are no more susceptible to fungus than glass, it's usually the coating that gets it first.  I had 3 fluorite refractors in their original packaging for close to 10 years and put in the loft and they came out in the same condition that they went in.  Damp conditions over an extended period of time is what does it and needs to be avoided.

Tony.

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Thanks guys. I tend to be careful with my kit anyway but striking a balance between reducing cool down times and preventing possible fungus issues had me wonder how other members store their kit. It seems less of a concern to Newtonian owners as mirrors can easily be cleaned, re-coated, replaced and collimated. Refractors are less forgiving in this way so prevention is better than a cure.

 

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