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Camera Mount

Jay1989

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Jay1989

Jay1989

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Yet another question lol I bought this mount for my camera and scope the other day, it doesn't have any magnification lenses in it, just a hollow tube, does this mean I loose all ability to actually see anything that are great distances away? My camera doesn't have built in zoom either, just a zoom lens which needs to be removed in order to fit the mount

So if this is the completely wrong type of mount could anyone possibly point me in the right direction? Here's the pic of the one I've ordered:

post-48593-0-45601600-1451301995_thumb.j

Thanks

Jay

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ronin

ronin

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You take the lens off the camera, then you put the T-ring on the camera and then put the T-ring in the focuser.

In effect the scope is the lens.

The image from the main objective HAS to fall on the camera sensor.

It is termed Prime Focus Imaging.

Camera needs to be set to fully manual, you set EVERYTHING as the normal electronics gets no feedback from the lens system that is usually attached.

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Alan64

Alan64

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From what I understand, the telescope itself will afford some magnifying power in and of itself, but probably not to the extent of holding the lens of a camera up to a high-power eyepiece, and as I have illustrated elsewhere.

Give it a whirl.  Attach it to the camera in place of the lens, as designed, then insert it into the focusser and take some pot-shots at the Moon, at first.  You will need to rely on the illuminated display of the camera to see what you're aiming at.

The adaptor, however, is primarily for use with telescopes mounted upon motorised equatorial mounts, and for the taking of time-lapsed exposures instead.

Serious, and tedious, astrophotography is a whole other ballgame, and an expensive endeavour.

Afocal, or casual, astrophotography is the most one might accomplish with a Dobsonian... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Afocal_photography 

This is an example of a telescope equipped for time-lapsed astrophotography... http://www.mborman.org/luntcakscope1.jpg

...what a dreadful mess.

Or, you can do as I do and simply hold the camera with the hand.  A DSLR is a bit bulky however. 

You'll not want to read this, but you might want to exchange it for a smaller point-and-shoot camera, like mine.

There are devices on the market to hold a camera in front of an eyepiece, and steadily... http://uk.telescope.com/Astrophotography/Astrophotography-Accessories/Orion-SteadyPix-Deluxe-Camera-Mount/pc/-1/c/1309/sc/1406/p/109823.uts

They're made for "smart-phones", too... http://uk.telescope.com/Astrophotography/Astrophotography-Accessories/Orion-SteadyPix-Universal-Smartphone-Telescope-Photo-Mount/pc/-1/c/1309/sc/1406/p/113407.uts

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John

John

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It's generally not a good idea to have a dig at others equipment choices. They may well be a member here and personal preferences vary immensely as we see in practically every discussion thread on equipment.

What matters is that they are participating in a great hobby :smiley:

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cjdawson

cjdawson

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The adapter is a T-Mount adapter, what it does is allows you to couple your telescope directly to your camera. So, in effect your telescope becomes a lens for the camera. I'd guess that your camera lens is probably a 50mm lens if it's fixed focus. If it's a Zoom lens, then it'll go from say 18mm to 55mm. These figures are the focal length of the lens. Now, turn to your telescope and you'll see it has a focal length as well. 400mm, 800mm so something else, (in my case 2000mm). This is how the magnification part is done. The longer the focal length of the scope, the higher the magnification.

Exactly what the magnification is depends on your camera. There's an equation. Focal length/eyepiece = magnification.

In your case, the eyepiece is the camera. Find out what the equivalent MM. For your camera is, and you can work out the magnification.

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cjdawson

cjdawson

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I completely agree with the sentiment of not taking potshots at someone's equipment choices. There are many ways to accomplish the tricky problem of Astrophotography. Each has it's pro's and con's each has it's limits. Each has it's advantages.

You might think that someone's setup looks a mess, and it may well have lots of cables. However the results of what is accomplished with the setup are what counts.

Afocal photography with a point and shoot camera is a good way to get started - people generally have access to a point and shoot camera, so there's not a huge outlay in price. You can capture the moon, and maybe a couple of planets like this. However, there are limits - limited exposure time and more pieces of glass in the optics that can get dewed up.

Prime focus with a DSLR - You can't adjust the magnification easily, but then you do get to pick the objects that you are going to try to photograph. Exposure times are not limited by the camera, so deep sky is possible. To make that a reality, you'd need to have some kind of guiding system to ensure that the scope stays on target.

A poster described that that scope posted earlier as a mess. Makes me wonder if what he's make of my LX-90 with guides cope, dew heaters and other stuff attached. Hehe.

There is a whole array of equipment that you can get. Cameras that connect directly to computers to let you take time lapse completely automated. These also allow things like auto-focus and auto-alignment to the object. Not to mention guiding and imaging with the same camera (some setups can do this) the list goes on and on.

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Cornelius Varley

Cornelius Varley

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Yet another question lol I bought this mount for my camera and scope the other day, it doesn't have any magnification lenses in it, just a hollow tube, does this mean I loose all ability to actually see anything that are great distances away? My camera doesn't have built in zoom either, just a zoom lens which needs to be removed in order to fit the mount

So if this is the completely wrong type of mount could anyone possibly point me in the right direction? Here's the pic of the one I've ordered:

attachicon.gifimage.jpeg

Thanks

Jay

You might have purchased the wrong type of t adapter. The Skyliner is equipped with a 2" r & p focuser which has a built in t-thread, a standard t ring can be screwed directly on to this thread without the need of a nosepiece (your t adaptor). The built in direct camera connection also allows you to position the camera close enough to the secondary mirror to reach focus. If you use your t adaptor you will also need to use the telescope's 1.25" eyepiece adaptor which will mean that the camera will be too far away to reach the point of focus. This video will explain how and why

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cjdawson

cjdawson

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You might have purchased the wrong type of t adapter. The Skyliner is equipped with a 2" r & p focuser which has a built in t-thread, a standard t ring can be screwed directly on to this thread without the need of a nosepiece (your t adaptor). The built in direct camera connect also allows you to position the camera close enough to the secondary mirror to reach focus. If you use your t adaptor you will also need to use the telescope's 1.25" eyepiece adaptor which will mean that the camera will be too far away to reach the point of focus. This video will explain how and why

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cYTmsfpL0M4

I think it'll be fine. The adapter shown in the original post can come apart. The 1.25" barrel adapter is screwed into the t-adapter.

If there's a t-thread on the focuser, then there's no problem. Just unscrew the 1.25" adapter and it'll work just fine.

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Stub Mandrel

Stub Mandrel

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The 150P Skyliner has an FL of 1200mm, you really don't want more than that unless you are planet hunting.

Your biggest challenge will be that a dobsonian mount won't easily track your target and your exposures will need to be VERY short to avoid trailing.

The 350mm scope may well be a more practical solution for you.

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Jay1989

Jay1989

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That's guys, has cleared it up for me :) yeah the mount does come in two parts so I should be able to screw it to the 2" adaptor :)

Both my scopes don't have an auto-tracker :( would it be possible to mount the scope onto a stand that has an auto-tracker? Or is it not that simple? Would be nice if I could get an auto-tracker for my Dob. It's a pain trying to keep things in shot lol

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cjdawson

cjdawson

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Technically anything is possible. It's just that people don't upgrade does to be Equatorial mounts - doing so defeats the purpose of it being a dob in the first place.

To convert a dobsonian mount to be Equatorial, all that you need to do is build an angled platform so that you can align the AZ rotation axis with the earths axis of rotation. It's possible, but will be a big construction. It'll end up looking something like an EQ Wedge that a fork mounted scope uses.

It is possible to remove the OTA from the dobsonian mount and place it onto an Equatorial mount. For that you'll need a big sturdy mount for it to be effective.

As for not having an auto guider, don't worry about that. At the moment you are at the bottom of a very big curve for Astrophotography (AP) so take it one step at a time. Shoot for the moon and the things that people have been saying are showstoppers won't be an issue. You'll find out for yourself which things are issues that you'll need to overcome, there are ways for everything. But first things first. See if you enjoy taking astro photos.

To get you started, how about taking a series of shots of the moon to capture every part of the lunar cycle.

Whilst you are at it, have some fun with trying to capture earthshine. And if you get to see a lunar eclipse, try to capture that too.

Hehe, that should keep you going for a year or two ;-)

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Jay1989

Jay1989

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Thanks mate, Does sound a bit tricky that lol think i might be better off with learning everything with the 150p then buy a new scope in a few years that has auto-tracker on it :)

The weather is really starting to annoy me now, have been dying to get out there but since I bought the scope I've only had one clear night :(

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Craig20264

Craig20264

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Hi

     Maybe you could use one of these to mount your DSLR   http://www.firstlightoptics.com/skywatcher-star-adventurer/skywatcher-star-adventurer-astronomy-bundle.html  

            This is the route i will be taking, these get good reviews.

For DSLR only, and an extra £100 , wouldn't the EQ3 Pro Synscan be a better buy?
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Physopto

Physopto

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This is my Rats Nest ( dreadful mess   :p  and I know no offence was meant and none was taken  :grin: ). I have changed equipment several times over the last 7/9 years and I am still trying to reduce the chances for a wire to get caught during unattended imaging. (there is always the unexpected). 

I have done some improvements since these were taken but only a full test will let me know if I have succeeded. I don't get a lot of chances to do imaging but I do like fiddling around with STUFF  :evil:

I do not have an obsy so it takes a fair while to get it all set up and then taken down again.

I would really like an observatory and am jealous of those lucky enough to have one. Hopefully when we have moved house !!!!

Derek

post-3291-0-73331900-1451387619_thumb.jp

post-3291-0-31101900-1451387642_thumb.jp

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