Help with first telescope.

[happy-kat]

Getting to see any telescope and tripod first will help you decide on what is portable for you. This can be a very personal decision.

[Mak the Night]

I'm guessing a 102mm Mak OTA http://www.firstlightoptics.com/maksutov/skywatcher-skymax-102-ota.html

Combined with a light tripod/mount http://www.firstlightoptics.com/celestron-mounts/astromaster-tripod.html

would be as portable as you could get for a 4" scope.

[trynda1701]

Here's my thoughts on the Heritage 130P Flexitube (yes, I have one!)

Portable - Yes. Carried in one hand easily, and that's more than my other telescope, a Celestron C8 SCT and tripod. Something like that is 'transportable' in two pieces, the tripod and then the tube/fork wedge, rather than portable. Both are quite heavy!

Now I've had my Heritage over a year, and I've been out with it more in that year, weather allowing, than my C8, which I've had since 1990! It's that much simpler to use quickly than the C8.

As to light interference, in my garden, we have a street light 10 feet outside the bottom fence. However, if you keep your eyes away from seeing the street light directly, this little gem can show a LOT. Last year with Jupiter, I saw satelite transits and shadow transits and eclipses with careful observation. If you know your way around the sky, with the books suggested above, good numbers of clusters and double stars will be seen.

Yes, you need a sturdy table, or bucket to use it, or get a wooden tripod made for it, but this telescope has it's followers. For the money, it's an amazing piece of kit.

Since getting it, I've added to my eyepieces (see my signature, I didn't have the BST, Televues or ES eyepieces till I got the Heritage!), and am now waiting for the constant storms we seem to have been cursed with in the UK the last few weeks to stop, so I can get some observing in with the Heritage again!

If portability is what you need, the Heritage, especially folded down, will be easy to transport. Do you have a car? Even if you go for one of the other 130 models you mention, with a car, they will still be transportable. Even a 150P would be with it's wooden Dobsonian mount. But any of those models would do you well, I'm just bamming up the Heritage!

By the way, where did you get the damaged scope from? If you want a trusted vendor, go with First Light Optics (FLO), who are the forums sponsor (see the banner at the top of the forum). They will keep you right if the courier messes up the precision optical instrument you are trying to purchase! They are good to deal with.

Hope that helps a bit.

Mark

[Alan64]

This would make for a fine choice, and well-balanced between observing within the solar system and beyond into deep space...

http://www.firstlightoptics.com/reflectors/skywatcher-explorer-150p-az4-mount.html

I have a similar kit myself...

I've taken several afocal photographs with the kit, and simply by holding a camera up to the eyepiece...

In future, and for the home, you can get a motorised equatorial, and still have the alt-azimuth for travel.

[Nickcx]

Here's my thoughts on the Heritage 130P Flexitube (yes, I have one!)

Portable - Yes. Carried in one hand easily, and that's more than my other telescope, a Celestron C8 SCT and tripod. Something like that is 'transportable' in two pieces, the tripod and then the tube/fork wedge, rather than portable. Both are quite heavy!

Now I've had my Heritage over a year, and I've been out with it more in that year, weather allowing, than my C8, which I've had since 1990! It's that much simpler to use quickly than the C8.

As to light interference, in my garden, we have a street light 10 feet outside the bottom fence. However, if you keep your eyes away from seeing the street light directly, this little gem can show a LOT. Last year with Jupiter, I saw satelite transits and shadow transits and eclipses with careful observation. If you know your way around the sky, with the books suggested above, good numbers of clusters and double stars will be seen.

Yes, you need a sturdy table, or bucket to use it, or get a wooden tripod made for it, but this telescope has it's followers. For the money, it's an amazing piece of kit.

Since getting it, I've added to my eyepieces (see my signature, I didn't have the BST, Televues or ES eyepieces till I got the Heritage!), and am now waiting for the constant storms we seem to have been cursed with in the UK the last few weeks to stop, so I can get some observing in with the Heritage again!

If portability is what you need, the Heritage, especially folded down, will be easy to transport. Do you have a car? Even if you go for one of the other 130 models you mention, with a car, they will still be transportable. Even a 150P would be with it's wooden Dobsonian mount. But any of those models would do you well, I'm just bamming up the Heritage!

By the way, where did you get the damaged scope from? If you want a trusted vendor, go with First Light Optics (FLO), who are the forums sponsor (see the banner at the top of the forum). They will keep you right if the courier messes up the precision optical instrument you are trying to purchase! They are good to deal with.

Hope that helps a bit.

Mark

Hey Mark thanks for your advice, and everyone else that has helped me out.. I have decided 100% to go for the heritage 130p - for me, it sounds the best overall considering all pros and cons. I will purchase from FLO - is there anything else I need to order extra with it? Essentials? The one I purchased was from Amazon - the box was all tatty (2009 edition) - and it was seriously messed up, it's gone back now. Nick

[glynnlondon]

Hi Nick a good choice with the heritage

[Dave In Vermont]

To go along with any collimation-cap, Cheshire Sighting-Tube, Laser, or Martian Trigonometics - good instructions are vital. One of our members, Astro_Baby, has written what many believe to be the most clear and direct guide to this often frightening subject:

http://www.astro-baby.com/collimation/astro%20babys%20collimation%20guide.htm

Enjoy!

Dave

[Obsidian]

aeajr, thanks for sharing these informative videos. Been eyeing the 130 models too, actually.

[Nickcx]

Cheers guys - are the Cheshire Sighting-Tube + collimation peice essential from the get go.. Do you have to do that every time you use the telescope? Skimmed through the instructions..seems awfully complicated..like learning a new language haha :/ Nick.

[Nickcx]

Having a collimation tool is like having a tire gauge. You should have one and should check the tires from time to time to get best wear and performance.

I will post a video later. Collimation is easy ,quick and not hard at all.

Thank you - extremely helpful - would you go for a basic collamiter or a deluxe?

In terms of who I'm purchasing it off - I have heard nothing but good things about FLO and the great customer service..however I have sent 4 emails over the past 10 days and not had a single reply..so tempted tmorder from Wexphotography instead as they seem to reply pretty quickly. Nick.

[Nickcx]

Again, thanks so much. So much useful information which would have probably taken days to find over the net come the time to do so.. Keeping this entire topic saved to come back to. Awesome advice.

One last thing - the Collimation cap, and the Cheshire tube - do I need both if these things? You said yours came with a cap, and that's what you use..did you also purchase the Cheshire tube also, to go with it? The cap is only a fiver..but the Cheshire tube is nearing £40, so just wanna make sure I need both before spending the extra cash on things I may not need.

[Nickcx]

Oh, ill just get the cap then, as I'm still not unsure how much use the telescope will get from the wife so don't wanna spend the extra on something which may just gather dust. I can see myself claiming it within a few weeks haha. Huuuge thanks again for all the advice..it's greatly appreciated. You deffinately know your stuff. Super impressive. Nick.

[happy-kat]

I use a collimation cap with my heritage

[FLO]

In terms of who I'm purchasing it off - I have heard nothing but good things about FLO and the great customer service..however I have sent 4 emails over the past 10 days and not had a single reply..

Welcome to SGL Nickcx

We are up-to-date with our communications so if you have not received a response it can only mean we have not received your emails. 

Please PM me your email address so we can check our emails logs, just to be sure. 

HTH, 

Steve

[Alan64]

I've found that a collimation cap will be quite adequate at first.  A passive, Cheshire collimator is helpful when adjusting the secondary mirror assembly, particularly if it's badly out of alignment.  A laser collimator is never necessary, but perhaps desired when one scales up to Newtonian apertures of 200mm and above, and when one cannot look into the Cheshire and reach the primary adjustment screws at the back of the telescope simultaneously.  Even then, laser collimators, the cheap ones especially, are known to need collimating in and of themselves, and before they can be used to collimate the telescope.  Many have regretted the purchase of a budget laser collimator.  Save your money.  For the most part, they amount to nothing more than a gimmick. 

Why, one can easily reach the primary adjustment screws on this 150mm f/5 whilst peering into a collimation cap and a Cheshire, too...

http://www.firstlightoptics.com/reflectors/skywatcher-explorer-150p-eq3-2.html

Of course, that one would not be very portable, and more for the home; but it is considerably less expensive than the aforementioned alt-azimuth kit, and with the ability to motorise the RA(right ascension) axis for automatic, hands-free tracking.  A 150mm f/5 isn't much larger than a 130mm f/5.  Here's an image, yet another, of the 150mm f/5 optical tube with a standard salt shaker to illustrate the scale...

Tuck it under one arm, and off you go.  150mm of aperture doesn't seem like much, and over that of a 130mm; that is, until you view a direct comparison...

As you can see, there's a considerable increase in light-gathering area.

[FLO]

In terms of who I'm purchasing it off - I have heard nothing but good things about FLO and the great customer service..however I have sent 4 emails over the past 10 days and not had a single reply..so tempted tmorder from Wexphotography instead as they seem to reply pretty quickly. Nick.

Welcome to SGL Nickcx

We are up-to-date with our communications so if you have not received a response it can only mean we have not received your emails. 

Aha

We have received just one email from you, it arrived this morning and my colleague Martin responded after only a few minutes. 

You are new to astronomy, perhaps you mistook us for another retailer? 

HTH, 

Steve

[Putaendo Patrick]

A lot of people used to make their own collimation cap just by making a hole in the centre of the base of a plastic 35mm photographic film canister. Try a google search for "film canister for collimation".

[Dave In Vermont]

The trick to the answer to your query: Should this be done everytime I get the scope out? - is knowing that collimation actuallycan become FUN! Not a chore anymore. So the answer is really is: No - you don't have to, but you may find out that you want to!

The first time is a beast - this because you don't truly understand what you're doing. But after that first 'bump' in the road is done and over, you'll laugh at all the stress you felt your "First Time." It really only should be done if you've moved the scope or bumped it about a bit. I carry a laser ( ) for this. But like to check with both a laser and Cheshire. They've always agreed.

You'll see!

Dave

[Charic]

A lot of people used to make their own collimation cap just by making a hole in the centre of the base of a plastic 35mm photographic film canister. Try a google search for "film canister for collimation".

The hole should actually  go in the centre of the cap, then replaced onto the cannister, and the base of the cannister  is cut off. The whole thing is then inserted into the focuser to aid the alignment of your eye to the focuser's axis.

[BritAngler]

Collimation is only a pain the first time you do it, after that it starts to become second nature to have a quick check to make sure everything is lined up. Once the secondary mirror is aligned it shouldn't need doing again for a while, it's usually only the primary that needs adjusting. That said, I've found aligning the secondary to be the hardest part.

There seems to be a little confusion between a collimating cap and a Cheshire.... The collimating cap is simply a thing a bit like an eyepiece but with a small hole in the centre. Blocking off the primary mirror to get rid of any distracting reflections and putting a large piece of coloured paper directly opposite the eyepiece tube (to give you a contrasting background) will let you see the secondary mirror in all its' glory. Then, using the cap, you can check that the mirror is both central and circular (some telescopes require the mirror to be placed slightly forward of centre). After you have achieved all that, it is then time to use the Cheshire.

This one has cross-hairs somewhere down the tube (usually at the far end) which you use to get the ring or doughnut on the primary mirror perfectly centred. If your scope doesn't have a ring or doughnut, there are Youtube vids available to show you how to put one on, it really does help with collimation.

AstroBabe's tutorial is well recommended, someone gave a link to that earlier in the thread

[BritAngler]

I want more gadgets, I use both

[Putaendo Patrick]

Charic - it seems there are several ways to make a collimation cap with a 35mm film canister - some putting the hole in the base others in the lid. See this discusion:

http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/138790-help-collimation-with-a-film-container-cap/

And also this page from the American Association of Amateur Astronomers:

http://www.astromax.org/faq/aa01faq10.htm

which says "Put a small 1/8 inch hole exactly in the center of bottom of the 35-mm film canister".

However, I generally use a refractor so I have no personal need or experience!

[happy-kat]

My cap has a mirror on the back which helps when doing the task.