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Dave In Vermont

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About Dave In Vermont

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    Little Green Man
  • Birthday 01/01/60

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  • Interests
    Sciences, bicycles, geopolitics, history.
  • Location
    Burlington, Vermont

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  1. Have you considered a dog? Me thinks your fear would vanish if you had another sentient-being to talk to during your nocturnal sojurns. Another human-being would likely work, too... Dave - who IS nocturnal.
  2. My suggestions of either Astronomik or Lumicon are, as stated, based on experience and others experiences. I didn't wish to get too technical with JTmunmun, Ronin, but I also factored-in the transmission-graphs on these (and other) filters. Such as: And..... While the Lumicon OIII does allow for more Hb and Ha through, I'd hardly say this constitutes a reason to not get a dedicated UHC-filter, too. I rest my case, Dave
  3. I concur with the above. And do encourage you to read through the paper John linked above by David Knisely from the Prairie Astronomy Club. Another excellent paper by David Knisely is this one: It will help you find the best filter to use on many, many different DSO's you're likely to be finding in the near future. Having a copy of the above paper on hand is a good asset. You'll likely be turning to it again and again. To this point, I've created a Pdf. of it for downloading to a computer and filing it for easy reference. Here you go: Filter Performance Comparisons For Some Common Nebulae - by Dave Knisely.pdf A question you'll likely have is which filter should you get first - a UHC or a OIII? My answer to this is to toss-a-coin. It's a very tough call. A third narrowband-filter type is the Hydrogen-beta - or Hb - which is useful for quite a few different DSO's. But it's much more rare, so I'd let it wait for a later day. Now regards the UHC & OIII-filters, something to consider is which brand should you buy? With narrowband-filters, a "bargain" isn't necessarily a good guide to shopping! Knowing you are planning on visual use for now helps to narrow the field of good choices for these filters. You want one that will allow you to see the most detail in the chosen DSO and not darken them. I'd suggest, from personal experience and of others I've known and conversed with, either Astronomik or Lumicon for these. Not cheap - but 'cheap' here translates to basically useless. Beware. A good narrowband-filter is a long-term investment, and with proper care, last a lifetime. So don't sweat the money - this should be a one-time expenditure. Just be sure to keep them in their case and in a safe place when not in use. Happy Hunting! Dave
  4. Spraying the concrete at dusk/evening with water from a garden-hose will hasten cooling. And the use of anti-vibration-pads, homemade from Sorbothane® or ready-made (£$€), will raise the scope above the concrete and help solve any vibration. Also works on wooden surfaces. I use them on my wooden-deck. Dave
  5. Yes - IF the LED is allowed to shine, without a directional baffle - everywhere. Then you are royally skewered. But with proper baffling, they are effectively neutered. While it's quite possible to retrofit baffles post-installation of the LED's, it's also much more expensive to a city/town/municipality to do so - as opposed to installing such at the onset. And £££ is why they are installed in the first-place. This is why approaching your town before-hand is a vital step. The literature from the IDSA can show the many dangers of NOT doing this. Not just for us weirdos with tubes & glass - for childrens' development, longevity of all people, and prevention of the extinction of entire species of life. To mention some, but hardly all. Had enough yet? I hope so! Get active, Dave
  6. Here's the Astronomik-line of filters in the UK - at Tring Astronomy Centre: I see they have the CLS CCD you're looking for. I find no reference to 'Optology Filters' - even using Google. Perhaps a re-check of this from your notes? By the way - I'm unfamiliar with the story of "fake Astronomik" floating (or otherwise) about. Can you find me a reference to this? I have a rather 'vested interest' in all-things-filters.' Happy Hunting, Dave
  7. Hello & Welcome aboard SGL, lynk! It's good to have you here. Regards your older Meade LX90 EMC, these are great telescopes! And age doesn't dimish the quality at all. New technology comes along - sure. But these scopes remain very useful for anyone who has a love for all-things-astronomy. The motor-issues may need professional attention, but don't freak out even if the motor blows completely. You can always de-fork the telescope itself and put it on a new mount of a variety of types/manufacturer's. However before you lift a screwdriver, allow me to link you to Dr. P. Clay Sherrod's website: The ASO is well-known among Cassegrain (especially Meade LX-series) telescope-users as "The" top-site for information and assistance with these. And, as you'll see, a treasure-trove of information and documents and useful goodies is free for the taking or asking. Sort of like SGL for the Meade LX-crowd. As Meade is a US-based company renowned for their optical performance - not so much their mechanical-interfaces - there are quite a few other very knowledgeable people for these scopes, too. And they are also happy to field questions from folks. And Yours' Truly maintains the "Miles-O-Files" with web-addy's and documents and such - so feel free to PM me with questions and needs. I'm always happy to take a crawl-through for such. Sound to me like your friend did you a BIG favor in giving you this instrument - work needed or not. I recently gave a 12" LX200GPS - older - to a professor I know from one of our local universities. He was bemoaning the low-wages teachers are paid over here, and couldn't afford anything more than his older 110mm F5 Newtonian-Reflector. He wondered if I had a cheap eyepiece I'd be willing to part with.....And he drove home with a 12" SCT - also with motor-problems. I live for doing this sort of thing. The look on people's faces are worth it! Pay It Foreward, Dave
  8. I'll go take a crawl through Astromart. Just thought you might have beaten me to it. "I'll be back!" And I am: Only ones up for sale are all sold but 1, a 12.5mm out of a set of 7 in a nice, wooden trick-box (retaining-holes cut into it - image below). Price was $45.00 ea. U$. And one person looking for these. Looks like we're also on the way up over here. Glad I've already got the one's I needed. But I'll be keeping my thumb on the pulse anywho! I L*O*V*E orthoscopics. On another note: The 'Planetary Eyepieces' usually sold (and much loved, too) by Orion-USA at $99.99 are now for sale under the Zhumell-brand for $42.95 - if you buy two or more + free shipping. Only 2 sizes in stock - others expected with a waiting-list. Here's Orion: And Zhumell, through Telescopes Plus: My order is out! Dave ...
  9. Have you checked out prices in the US? Such as Astromart? Please let me know - Dave
  10. Perhaps these images will help. This 1st. one shows the effects & colour of a Sodium-Vapor streetlight: And this shows the effect & colour of a baffled LED: Good to hear you have the "Plan B Option" relatively close-by! For your at-home situation, I'm sure it can be somewhat alleviated. It's pretty amazing what people like us can see even from a swamp of streetlights and neon, et al, like central London or New York City. A 'tip-of-the-keys' to sharkmelley of SGL for the excellent images aka teaching-aids! Dave
  11. For light pollution (or LP for short), it helps to be specific about the type of lighting you're being bombarded with. The newer LED's are virtually impossible to filter out and/or block - aside from setting-up a physical 'block,' such as stringing curtains from trees or such (being inventive helps). But for other types, such as Sodium-Vapor (those bright orange ones), or Mercury Lights (blue-purple commonly used in streetlighting) - a good Broadband-Filter can help. But only a trip to a dedicated 'Dark-Sky' site will truly alleviate the problem. To try to prevent your city or town from putting in the 1/10th the cost to operate full-spectrum LED's, without proper baffling to aim the light emitted down to the ground/street only (which many places do these days - especially if you approach the city-council during the planning-stage and show them this will be the best option and will save on health-problems in developing childrens' brains (for one thing)). For help and information, contact the International Dark Sky Association: So let us know what you're dealing with, and we'll let you know about what options/filters/approaches would work best for you. Starry & Dark Skies, Dave
  12. The Baader Neodymium will bring out great detail on many Solar-System subjects. But a variable-polarizeris the way to fly to cut the glare when our twin-planet is approaching, or at, totality. I see the #80A Blue mentioned alot also by Moon observers (and planets). But one filter that's better still - for smaller aperture telescope-users, is the #82A Light-Blue. Works great on bringing out contrast - without excessive darkening of the view. And another filter to try - with great results, too - is a #11 Yellow-Green. Some have found the #11 is as good as the Neodymium! Your mileage may vary - Dave - Filter-Nut
  13. If you could supply us with more detailed information on how you plan to do AP, it would be a great help. As Olly - above - stated: "The mount is absolutely vital." If you already have the mount, please tell us the type of AP you plan so we can see if you have something that will work. If not - just give us as much info as possible - then we can suggest what you can consider. Starry Skies & Welcome to SGL, Petar! Dave
  14. Indeed it does! I've downloaded it and will be checking it out. Ooops! Wrong button. In any event - it looks too easy! There must be a catch. I wonder what it can do with a LogiTech WebCam.....? Dave
  15. Hello, Mitch, it's nice of you to join us! We love helping to find answers to questions in these many forums, so always feel free to ask yours. Starry Skies - Dave