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Putaendo Patrick

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About Putaendo Patrick

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    Central Chile

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  1. Buying a decent telescope in Egypt by all accounts is not easy and not simple! In fact, I believe private ownership of a telescope was illegal in Egypt until a few years ago. If you live in or near Cairo, I think there's an astronomy society at the American University so perhaps one of the members can give you some good local advice. I've never used or seen the Voyager telescopes, but to me a 150mm refractor for 520 or 720 dollars (depending on focal length) seems worryingly cheap given that I would expect prices to be much higher than Europe or the USA. I would certainly try to find some
  2. A lot depends what you want to spend. Prices can range from about 25 pounds for a basic but reasonable quality Plossl to several hundred for a top of the range EP! In addition to the magnification that an EP will give, it's worth considering two other factors: field of view and eye relief. Field of view, measured in degrees, is how wide you can see while eye relief is how close your eyeball needs to be to the EP glass. Many people find extended viewing with their eye very close to the EP can become uncomfortable. Plossls are an excellent EP design but higher magnification versions (with a
  3. I think the new Altair has a 3" focuser versus Telescope House's 2.5 inch, but otherwise they are pretty similar. so much so that I'm tempted to think the TS version is a rebrand and the optics may in fact be the same.
  4. The larger the aperture of your telescope, the better you can view fainter objects and obtain good resolution at higher magnifications. However there is hours and hours of fun to be had with a smaller telescope, especially when you're starting out. Reflector telescopes which use mirrors are generally cheaper to manufacture than refractors which use lenses - so they are perhaps better value in terms of price/size. Dobsonian mounts also represent very good value. But again, they don't suit everyone's needs. How are you planning to get to Sark? Travelling by air will limit your size and weig
  5. You can spend 400 pounds or more on one eyepiece, but you can also pick up a very reasonable EP for about 25 pounds! Two of the reasons that justify this difference in price are optical quality and design, and these influence factors such as field of view, eye relief and image quality in fast scopes. Field of view can range from about 50° in an inexpensive Plossl design to 100° or more, and basically means you can see more. Eye relief is how close your eyeball needs to be to the glass - if your eyeball has to be very close, this can be uncomfortable for extended viewing (and if you need to wea
  6. Looks like you could save a fiver and buy the same in green: http://www.uttings.co.uk/p123743-opticron-adventurer-wp-10x50-dcf-ga-binoculars-green-30067/#.WN-yg1Uw601
  7. A few years ago Orthos almost disappeared from the market altogether. Baader stopped their Genuine line and Circle T (whoever he was) apparently went into retirement. Since then they've made a well-deserved recovery. Baader have now reintroduced the Chinese-made Classics and Fujiyama seem to be supplying a niche demand - basically because these are great EPs without breaking the bank. Baader Classics are now nearly 50 pounds each and Fujiyamas about 80-90 pounds each - and Circle Ts will give both a very close run, some might say better! So while increasing prices may be caused in part by fas
  8. I rather like this world view from a certain Professor Orlando Ferguson, mid 19th century I guess: Christine Garwood wrote an enjoyable book in 2012 entitled Flat Earth, the History of an Infamous Idea. Although particularly strong on the 19th century religion versus science debate, it has a good overview of many theories prevalent at different periods of history.
  9. As I understand it, in this case the new focuser is significantly shorter so he's adding another component between the OTA and the focuser which is essentially a 3.75" extension tube. Technically I guess this is not part of the focuser, but at the same time it could be considered part and parcel of the overall focusing set-up. If you choose to upgrade, this may or may not be necessary depending on which replacement focuser you go for - I think .
  10. One piece of kit I find is a great compliment to a telescope is a pair of regular 8x40 or 10x50 binoculars - not rubbish but not expensive either, about 50 pounds new gets you some good options.
  11. I don't know if this is actually true, but I've often heard that Japanese astronomers preferred not to use diagonals with refractor telescopes - I'm guessing these would be amateur telescopes from the 1960s and 70s. So perhaps it's just a question of getting accustomed - but my neck pretty well insists on a diagonal! In general, most diagonals which come with Maks are acceptable for most purposes (although a decent dialectic may be an improvement), so if PatrickO is finding the viewing is seriously degraded, there may be a problem, for example with mirror alignment?
  12. Wow - thanks, Moriniboy. My very own Russian nightclub on my wrist - I just feel that after a couple of bottles of Stolichnaya, all that neon might make my head hurt! Actually I was thinking maybe Belka and Strelka - the first dogs who went to space and CAME BACK! (I've never quite forgiven the Russians for Laika). Or perhaps, more human, Gagarin and Tereshkova:
  13. Very nice indeed! I've been scouring ebay for a space themed Soviet/Russian watch but so far haven't found quite what I want
  14. Reflector telescopes do need periodic collimation - fine-tuning the alignment of the primary and secondary mirrors. First time it can be quite a nerve racking experience - but with practice, it really is a simple operation! You will probably want to buy a Cheshire eyepiece to do this, cost about 40 euros. In terms of observing capability, there really isn't much difference between a 6" refractor and an 8" reflector. I think I'd prefer a refractor for planets and a reflector for DSOs - but honestly I'm not at all sure . Quite a bit of your budget is going on the tripod mount with both
  15. The Skywatcher 130/900 is a good enough telescope for basic visual observation. It is, however, an older design which will not be ideal for astrophotography. If you want to get into imaging, take a look at 130P-DS http://www.skywatcher-india.com/Product/ProductSpecFeature/101 This model has a parabolic mirror and an improved focusing system which allows for better fine focusing and also allows you to reach focus with a camera. It is also a "faster" telescope (f5 versus f7.9) which is generally preferred for photography. Many members of this Forum have used it with great success for astrophoto
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