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Wide eyepiece to help finding my way around?


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So apologies for another newb question but here goes.

As some of you may have noticed, I'm quite new at observing and have yet to find a Deep Space Object. One of the difficulties I can't quite overcome is matching what I see visually, translating that to my binoculars, then reversing it for my finder scope, and then getting into the field of view of my main scope.

I've working through a few solutions to help with those things (a right angle finder, working harder on matching what I see visually with what I see through the kit so I can move from star to start more confidently etc)

I was wondering what y'all thought of having a very wide eyepiece to help, perhaps a 32mm or even a 40mm. My thinking is that this would get me a field of view much closer to my binoculars and help me locate fuzzies.

What think yous?

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A wide-field EP will certainly help, although the 25mm that comes with your scope already has a fairly wide field (30x magnification, 1.67 deg FOV, roughly). A right-angle correct-image (RACI) finder may actually help a lot more. I mounted a BIG one on my scope, and since then my DSO count has sky-rocketed.

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I have not used a RACI, but have a Telrad so go with either there both good, get if you don't have it Stellarium its a free download, it does have the Telrad circles so looking at a star map and then spotting the same thing in the sky makes learning your way around very easy there also a full list of messier dso's with the Telrad circles just google "Telrad maps".......

http://www.stellarium.org/en_GB/

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Moonshine132435......Hi, I purchased the 32mm Panaview just to get a bigger view of M31 Andromeda, because I couldn't fit M31 into the 25mm supplied EP  FOV when viewed from a dark site . The 32mm  gives some stunning views on my scope with my eyes.

Overcoming the use of the equipment would be the cheaper option, practice makes perfect.


I use a straight through 9x50 finder scope, and I view with both eyes open, which I find, aligns the target much faster. As long as the cross-hair is on target, the  object will be in my eyepiece. I mastered the telescope  quickly, and it has become second nature to put the telescope where I want it, especially when a satellite speeds through the field of view. 

I'm waiting for the darker nights to return? What with the bright nights and the constant clouds, astronomy is pretty much on hold for me at present!

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The 6x30 finder on the 150P is okay, but not as nice as a 9x50 RACI finder. Add a Telrad or Rigel QuikFinder next to it and with a good sky atlas, you have the tools to find anything the telescope is capable of showing you.

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I was wondering what y'all thought of having a very wide eyepiece to help, perhaps a 32mm or even a 40mm. My thinking is that this would get me a field of view much closer to my binoculars and help me locate fuzzies.

Certainly feasible - it's what I do. But some things to bear in mind.

1. The true FOV of an eyepiece is determined by the field stop: with a 1.25" focuser the widest possible true field can be achieved with a 32mm or 40mm plossl (you don't need to get an "ultra wide field" type). A TeleVue 32mm plossl will do the job. That's what I use - a superb eyepiece.

2. The art of finding is being able to link dots on a map with stars you can see. The tricky part is that there are invariably more of one than the other. This remains the case whether you use telrad, finder or low power eyepiece. It's really a case of getting used to your map, your view, and the connection between them. A matter of practice.

3. I use the finder to locate my naked-eye starting star (I could use a telrad or gunsight for that). I then move to the 32mm eyepiece plus map. And I use a very detailed map (Great Atlas Of The Sky). With the telescope magnification there's no room for guesswork or sweeping around - you need to know exactly which star is which, and proceed slowly. That way I'm able to get to the exact location of very faint targets which only become visible when I move to higher power. This works well for me, but I think it would be very challenging for a beginner.

So I'd say by all means invest in a TV 32mm plossl - you'll still be using it when you move on to another scope - and give it a go for finding. But don't expect it to be any easier - it's just more accurate, and only works if you have a sufficiently detailed star chart.

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Had the same problem with a Mak, not a wide enough field of view, I went and bought a 40mm plossl.

As I wanted it for alignment I was not concerned with quality just a wide view, it could have been fuzzy, I didn't care.

I bought the 40 as I read a few times that although it had a field stop it was it still ended up a teeny bit more then a 32mm plossl and I wanted that teeny bit more.

Now comes the decision.

A 30mm eyepiece at 50 degrees will give the same as a 25mm eyepiece with a 60 degree view.

So a 25mm BST would be the same as a 30mm plossl.

There are now 82 degree eyepieces, and if there is a 25mm in these then you will get more then either.

One eyepiece design or type that seem not to have caught on is the 70 degree ones. Rother Valley do the Antares W70 at 25mm and that would give a wider field then a 32mm plossl, they are £60. I have no idea how they perform however, a quick search seems to imply they are reasonable eyepieces. Also see that TS have the same at €69 so about the same cost just an alternative source.

There is a newish "Astro-Tech" 70 degree around but I think it costs more and I do not know of it being sold here. Like the BST's it comes from Barsta and I keep hoping to find Sky's the Limit offering them under the BST brand name.

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If you are considering the TV plossl new for slightly less money you could buy the 28mm Maxvision 68 degrees. It should work well in an f/5 scope, since your scope will accept 2 inch eyepieces anyway, The 68 degree FOV  will give about 0.4 more degrees of FOV over the TV plossl based on the field stop data I have , and with a slightly smaller exit pupil 6.4 versus 5.6 in your scope ( if I got the model right ).  You may also find that a bit more suitable depending on your sky quality, more light pollution will favour the smaller exit pupil.

I use the 28mm the Maxivsion in my 10 inch Dobsonian which Is f4.7 and it still holds up quite well across the FOV and It gives me about 1.5 degrees which I find enough, relying mainly on the rigel and the finder scope to zone if needed for the more tricky targets. In your scope the Maxvision 28mm will give you a nice 2.4 degrees or so :smiley:  

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get a Telrad and fit it on your scope and you will love it every minute since you got it on your scope.Dont need any wide ,ultrawide or super ultrawide eye pieces for that.Get it on your scope,allign it accurately,use it for star hopping and rough finding the object,then center it in your normal finder and woala you have your first DSO.you can even get a Telrad maps what will show you how to do a star hop to find your desired object.Telrad will cost you probably arround 40 quid,but that will be your best investment ever made!

Trust me.many other fellow astronomers will confirm this. :)

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get a Telrad and fit it on your scope and you will love it every minute since you got it on your scope.Dont need any wide ,ultrawide or super ultrawide eye pieces for that.Get it on your scope,allign it accurately,use it for star hopping and rough finding the object,then center it in your normal finder and woala you have your first DSO.you can even get a Telrad maps what will show you how to do a star hop to find your desired object.Telrad will cost you probably arround 40 quid,but that will be your best investment ever made!

Trust me.many other fellow astronomers will confirm this. :)

I will quite happily confirm this :)

I use a Rigel QuikFinder rather than a Telrad but they both do the same job. Without doubt the best accessory for astronomy I ever bought.

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I bought the TS 32mm for the 150P for the reasons you and others state.

It was 'Love at First Light'.

I'm going to have to buy another one for the times that both scopes are in use (yes I do have a friend or two!).

But, have you seen the FLO offer for a SW 28mm at £20, whilst not exactly what you are aiming for, at this price if still available you can't go wrong.

Cheers,

Rich

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Thanks for all your views, I guess the conclusion I'm coming to is that some better, more suitable equipment might help, but nothing is going to make up for light skies and inexperience other than practice practice practice.

Case in point I was out again last night, clear skies AND a moonless night. Again I saw no DSOs for sure, but then it was pretty light all night. Dark skies are everything.

Ironically, I think I may have seen the Hercules cluster, but only through my binoculars, not the scope..

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