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Flocking evidence

jambouk

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billhinge

billhinge

Posted
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surprised no one mentioned protostar flock - it isn't sticky and just held in place by its natural springiness 

it is a bit too thick to fit in a 3" focuser though

I bought it from lyra optical but they don't seem to stock it now so you may need to go to US

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sbooder

sbooder

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It is worth saying the only downside to the abm flocking is the postage costs but the flock is cheaper than other flocks and better in my opinion.  To get over the postage costs my Uncle and I would order 20m between us and split the costs.

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John

John

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I used the flocking material that FLO supply to flock my 10" Orion Optics newtonian. I did the area of the tube opposite the focuser, from the top of the tube to around 6 inches below the focuser level and extending around half the inside diameter of the tube. I also did the whole of the inside of the tube from just below the primary mirror to about 8 inches above it.

The flocking material was easy enough to apply and relatively inexpensive. I honestly can't say it made any difference to the performance of the scope though, to my eyes at any rate.

I've found keeping stray light out of the top of the tube of my newts very important though and used light shields on the top of both the 10" and now the 12" scopes. This has made a significant difference when observing some parts of the sky as stray light in and around the secondary, spider and focuser really was impacting contrast.

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emadmoussa

emadmoussa

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I used the flocking material that FLO supply to flock my 10" Orion Optics newtonian. I did the area of the tube opposite the focuser, from the top of the tube to around 6 inches below the focuser level and extending around half the inside diameter of the tube. I also did the whole of the inside of the tube from just below the primary mirror to about 8 inches above it.

The flocking material was easy enough to apply and relatively inexpensive. I honestly can't say it made any difference to the performance of the scope though, to my eyes at any rate.

I've found keeping stray light out of the top of the tube of my newts very important though and used light shields on the top of both the 10" and now the 12" scopes. This has made a significant difference when observing some parts of the sky as stray light in and around the secondary, spider and focuser really was impacting contrast.

Is it a homemade light shield, John?

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TakMan

TakMan

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I flocked my 10" OO Dob  - I do believe it has made a (small) difference to contrast... certainly when LeeB on here looked through it (who is a far better observer than me), his comment was that he felt the view was better...

Here is a link to my write up for my local astro group:  http://www.atm.me.uk/html/flocking_orion_dobsonian_scope_july_2013.html

The PDF on there will give you the link (I think) to the Wilko's material that I understand is what FLO stock - D-C-Fix Original Deco Self-Adhesive Film Velour Black 348-0005 You can order it online and pick up in store. I ordered more than I knew I needed and then took back the rolls not needed (or given to my mate to do his OTA!) 

There is one pic on there (with the red light shining down the tube) that does appear to show the material doing it's stuff!

I use it in conjunction with an AstroZap SCT dewshield (from FLO) to protect the front from stray light and to stop the secondary from dewing on a long observing session. One thing I would suggest is if you do use a full dew shield - add a handle to the tube (third pic), when you've removed everything to flock it, to help 'manipulate' the scope in the future... previously I'd grabbed the end of the OTA, but you can't really do that when the dew shield is attached!

Hope that helps....?

Damian

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post-4105-0-81667200-1391604803_thumb.jp

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emadmoussa

emadmoussa

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I flocked my 10" OO Dob  - I do believe it has made a (small) difference to contrast... certainly when LeeB on here looked through it (who is a far better observer than me), his comment was that he felt the view was better...

Here is a link to my write up for my local astro group:  http://www.atm.me.uk/html/flocking_orion_dobsonian_scope_july_2013.html

The PDF on there will give you the link (I think) to the Wilko's material that I understand is what FLO stock - D-C-Fix Original Deco Self-Adhesive Film Velour Black 348-0005 You can order it online and pick up in store. I ordered more than I knew I needed and then took back the rolls not needed (or given to my mate to do his OTA!) 

There is one pic on there (with the red light shining down the tube) that does appear to show the material doing it's stuff!

I use it in conjunction with an AstroZap SCT dewshield (from FLO) to protect the front from stray light and to stop the secondary from dewing on a long observing session.

Hope that helps....?

Damian

Thanks for the tips. I wonder if anybody knows how many rolls I need for the 300P Flextube?

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TakMan

TakMan

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Apart from dropping it, inadvertently scratching the secondary or dropping it down onto the primary you mean.... do it on the horizontal!

You'll have to re-collimate it once finished.... I'm a numpty with collimation (don't have to do that with my nice refractors), but thankfully 'LeeB' is a whizz/expert and happy to help 'numptys'!

Is it worth it - I think so... certainly has made it look half decent and is as black as a coal shed now when you look down the thing!

Damian

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TakMan

TakMan

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Actually, that's a good point re: shedding fibres.... it is not supposed to shed (in the advertisement) - but it does a tad, I suppose initially....

So before I re-added everything, I left it to 'stick' for a few hours.... then gently wiped over with a damp j-cloth..... then once dried again, I stuck the hoover nozzle down the tube with the brush attached....!

Damian

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leelee970

leelee970

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Emad - there is always a risk. But I you are methodical and make notes, take photos etc then everything should go well.

 

I've flocked my scope and it was easy (top to bottom) and blackened anything shiny.

 

In fact I often remover the mirrors (usually because I'm tinkering with the scope).

Lee

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leelee970

leelee970

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You flocked top and bottom parts?

Was it easy to remove the secondary and primary?

I would say it was easy - label and remove the 4 outer screws holding the spider to the tube (remember to have the scope horizontal)

 

It looks like your primary mirror is held the same as my OO. Again label each screw + hole and remove the 4 outer screws from the lower tube - the whole assembly (mirror and cell) should slide out.

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emadmoussa

emadmoussa

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I would say it was easy - label and remove the 4 outer screws holding the spider to the tube (remember to have the scope horizontal)

 

It looks like your primary mirror is held the same as my OO. Again label each screw + hole and remove the 4 outer screws from the lower tube - the whole assembly (mirror and cell) should slide out.

Cool - I'll give it a shot. If anything goes wrong...I'm definitely gonna hunt you down :D :D

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