Flocking evidence

[jambouk]

If the scope is a solid tube, you'll have to take the spider out to flock the top half.

After you've put the spider back in, collimation will be totally shot.

Taking out the primary is easier and quicker than taking out the spider. I suspect putting the primary back in does minimal to upset collimation.

Therefore, if you are taking the spider out, you might as well take out the primary and just flock the whole lot and be done with it.

And then less likely to drop anything (metallic or fluffy-based) onto the primary too.

Unless i'm missing something.

Jd

[emadmoussa]

Are you sure about this Imad -- remember the screw etc......

I have all the materials now. But dnt see myself doing it any time soon.I need to do some more important mods first when time allows.

And oh yeah, I do remember the screw :-Q was sorted in the end.

[Moonshane]

As a matter of interest, if you bought a brand new scope and then removed the secondary and primary cells / supports to apply flocking, would that affect the warranty at all ?

It's not an issue for me as all my scopes have been bought used but I just wondered.

I suspect it would John - mods are probably best left until after the end of the warranty although tbh with dobs what can go wrong that would be covered?

[Cath]

we spend hundreds on focusers, scopes and (particularly) eyepieces to get a small incease in detail and contrast or performance compared with standard equipment. I see flocking and dew shields as a very inexpensive way to achieve a similarly small increase in contrast (which might mean detail) so why not? it's easy to do, cheap, looks nice and (I think anyway) works quite well.

Indeed!

Flocking is the next best thing to baffling. Anything that helps, helps!

Personally, I had all the evidence I needed after I'd done mine. I've not seen the 'rings of death' (halo rings) appear in the FOV since flocking. They were being cause by bright stars (and the Moon) just outside the FOV, very common it seems on SCT's.

it wasn't exactly hard to do. if I can do it, anyone can do it !

[michaeldurban]

I also had  'flocking aversion'....

scratching the mirror, taking the mirror out....gave me pseudo

nightmares...

but...(and i think i commented on a previous post by emadmoussa)

there's little to fear unless you go bonkers...

I had little funds (certainly none for purchasing protostar) and set about for

suitable alternatives..

I found a very good alternative in car upholstery...and even did my own testing

with light scattering before I bought it...

It's a bit like a suede material, black and matte...although it didn't appear that way.

I tried searching for conventional flocking stuff (none available in SA) and came across

this upholstery,..

Removed the primary cell..marked out the depth of the mirror...and set cracking.

I used spray glue...and sprayed both sides

I cut sections..about a quarter (in length) from the circumference of the OTA

then glued it....and it works great...for good measure I spraypainted the inside

of the newly laid flocking with chalkboard paint (light coat !!)

Can I see a difference?

The OTA is certainly darker....no reflections...or very little..

But in start gazing I can't notice a difference...

and yes...fibres shed...and pollen will fall onto your primary...so will saliva and

tiny plant matter and microbes and and and..................

dont worry too much...

a mirror can take more than you can give it...in proportion of course..

[jambouk]

Michael, are you saying it is worth it or not? I'm confused [dot com].

Jd

[Naemeth]

When I flocked my Heritage it seemed to make a difference, but I did make a bit of a mess of it so I'm putting off doing the 10" .

[emadmoussa]

I think I might get a second hand 6 or 8 inch newtonian and abuse the hell out of to gain more condidence

[emadmoussa]

CONFIDENCE not condidence...stupid tablet

[sbooder]

This is why I flock everything.  This is my dew shield on the AR152L.

[andyboy1970]

I have found it does improve contrast especially when observing the Moon and Planets.

Judge for yourself -

Notice the difference in glare where the flocking starts, greatly reduced.

[SnakeyJ]

I think I might get a second hand 6 or 8 inch newtonian and abuse the hell out of to gain more condidence

I might have to report you - 8" newts have rights too

[emadmoussa]

How do you ensure the spider is 100% centered after you have removed it?

[sbooder]

How do you ensure the spider is 100% centered after you have removed it?

Most people use a metal rule.  astronomyshed has a video on youtube showing you.  I modded an old Vernier, I took off the depth gauge so I could fit it in the tube, it gives me pinpoint accuracy with the spider.

[emadmoussa]

Most people use a metal rule.  astronomyshed has a video on youtube showing you.  I modded an old Vernier, I took off the depth gauge so I could fit it in the tube, it gives me pinpoint accuracy with the spider.

Makes sense. I've got a vernier caliper and I think it should work. Which video is that? The one about flocking the 10" Quattro?

[sbooder]

Makes sense. I've got a vernier caliper and I think it should work. Which video is that? The one about flocking the 10" Quattro?

I think it is part 2 or 3 of his collimation set.  I will have a look and post link.

[emadmoussa]

I think it is part 2 or 3 of his collimation set.  I will have a look and post link.

Thanks!

[sbooder]

Here we go part 3 & part 4

[emadmoussa]

I got the flocking materials, I  experimented by putting a sheet on the inside of the tube (without gluing of course ) and it does seem to absorb light. Also by contrast shows the lighter paint on the inside of the tube.

I'm thinking about reducing the amount of work required by just leaving the focuser where it is and just cut around it?

[emadmoussa]

Also, the velour material seems to leave a little bit of fuzz if you rub your fingers against the surface, but tends to get less as you do it more until it stops shedding such fuzz completely.

I'll probably use the fabric fuzz shaver on the sheets before applying them.

[leelee970]

Emad,

Iff you are worried about fuzz then go oover it several times with gaffa tape or similar to pick up the loose.

[emadmoussa]

Emad,

Iff you are worried about fuzz then go oover it several times with gaffa tape or similar to pick up the loose.

I'm actually surprised at how small the amount of fuzz the Wilko sheets shed. You just rub it few times and all the fuzz comes out. I think the wife will enjoy the fuzz removal job

[andyboy1970]

I'm actually surprised at how small the amount of fuzz the Wilko sheets shed. You just rub it few times and all the fuzz comes out. I think the wife will enjoy the fuzz removal job

Luckily when its installed nothing can rub it!

No problems with it shedding after 2 years of use.

[sbooder]

I noticed something last night that made flocking the dew shield pointless unless I sorted out the problem.  So this morning I did.  If you look at photo 1, you will see the problem shining at you in the face...Yep, I have flocked the dew shield but Meade/Bresser in their wisdom have provided me with six chrome collimation screw, three of which are well above the surface of the lens.

I wanted a fix that was easy to remove when I took off the shield for cleaning or collimation.  I built a stepped flocked ring from foam bedding.  I should have taken a photo of the underside of the ring so you can see it is stepped so it goes over the screws.  I will add a schematic later to show what I mean.  But it has worked very well. so well in fact that I had to point the scope at the window and go outside to allow the photo to be taken it was so dark inside the dew shield and then edit in CS5 to lighten it all.

[sbooder]

I notice a few people here talking about their flocking shedding fibres of lint.  I think that is another reason I like the flocking I use as it is a velvet type flocking and not a baize type and I get no residue or fibres coming away at all.