aluminumwelder

I think the scraping method is better than the polishing method you are trying. Honestly I am surprised you are still trying I would of given up after 6 dead sensors. if bits of glass are still stuck to the frame, take a flat screwdrier and heat it up on your stove till tip is red hot touch end of screwdriver to scrap of glass and it will eventually come loose, that is how I got rid of my left overs.

I'll buy a few of those!!! seriously just tell me where to send the $$$$. that is awesome!

It might, but for most all you need is a piece of metal about 1x1" in size and gas stove. Heat up metal rod (do NOT get it red hot which is 600C that is wayy to hot) and then slowly move over sensor till the glue seal pops. too many people have accidently fried their sensor putting blow torch directly on to it. For those of you that want to search this thread on google put in your search term and then the thread address example below: epoxy removal site:http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/166334-debayering-a-dslrs-bayer-matrix/ note you will have to scroll down the results and click on the link to show omitted results

the jury is still out, some had success with epoxy and others had failures, probably because everyone used different epoxies, there's no way to draw a scientific conclusion with varying testing methods.

russellhq Thanks for the video. I will try my method again using the square aluminum tube. Honestly I heated it too long, around a minute. It was not my intention to melt the tube at 660C, maybe the sensor is fried, maybe insulation protected it, but essentially our methods are the same trying to evently heat the glass only , next time I will only do about 15 seconds and then check. I'm waiting for some 99.9% ISApotting epoxy, and magnifier lenses to arrive before I try my first attempt at removing the CFA. I can't believe I read all this thread, skipping over most of the sotware and cooling comments. Anyone have a mono DSLR that can record video they want to sell? I'm just going to use this for UV portrait work so sensor doesnt' need to be perfectly flat and can have some issues. I suppose I should just mail in a camera to Hypercams and pay the $500 US dollars to modify it, but given that 1200d/T5 only cost $200 in the USA, I think trying to DIY first is worth the risk.

One photo above shows a paper towel , that is used to drain the water out of the pan, capillary action will just suck the water right out, you deffinetely dont' want to get water inside. This sensor might not even work., it was from a water damaged camera, just did it for practice.

I did it! Easily remove the cover glass of my 1100D t3 x50 DSLR The technique is very simple. I'd recommend putting some tape in the center portion only of the cover glass so when it cracks it wont' fall and brake any gold wires. 1. Place sensor in a shallow pan of distilled water to insulate it thermal from the heat. (not sure if this is really needed, but I did it anyways) 2. Get a piece of 1x1.25 inch aluminum tube with very flat cut and place it on top of the sensor, stuff some rockwool or other high temp insulation inside. Put a few ouches of metal weights on top so it does move. 3. Take propane torch and heat up aluminum tube, at the very top, heat will travel down. Carefull it will start melting the aluminum tube after about a minute! 4. glass with probably start to crack and come free. You can see this because along the edge the bond goes from dark black to a lighter color as the glue bond breaks and you see a sliver of an air gap. 5. If you have sections that did not break free then heat up a flat tip screwdriver or a chisel end till red hot and then touch the glued cover glass, it will release you will have to gently use exacto chisel to get off cover, angle sensor so glass falls away from it. pictures below In random order showing how easy it is, took ten minutes. In hind sight I think a red hot chisel or screw driver would work just as well. I was really hoping to get the cover glass off without any breakage, but I think that is doubtfull. I also read that soaking the sensor upside down in a very very 1mm thick layer of acetone for a week would loosen the bond, but I'm impatient and I think if done wrong the acetone would get on sensor and destroy it.

I am not an astro photogrpaher but i do want to retry UV photography so this topic is of great interest to me since removing the cfa increases uv 6x! I spend a few hours reading the first 30 pages of this thread and its a bit frustrating due to how slow it is to filter the info I need. 160 more pages to Go! SO I turned to google simply put your search term in and then follow it with this site:http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/166334-debayering-a-dslrs-bayer-matrix/ for example I wanted to see if anyone has used tape to remove the CFA so I typed in tape site:http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/166334-debayering-a-dslrs-bayer-matrix/ gave me 4 results none of which were using tape to remove cfa, which Is want to try since I've read on this forum it can be done http://www.cloudynights.com/topic/486810-thinking-about-removing-the-cfa-from-my-20d-thoughts/ also googled epoxy site:http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/166334-debayering-a-dslrs-bayer-matrix/ and found 3 topics on this thread that discussed protecting gold wires from accidental breakage took 10 seconds NOT hours. Also if you click on the BASIC VIEW icon in the upper left corner of the forum page it removes all the distrating avatars and signatures and makes the forum easier to read. Hopefully that helps all the new people wade through this topic easier. Next as far as heating up the cover glass to get at the sensor surface I think the following method would work best buy or make an aluminum tube about 100mm long and about the same outside perimeter of the sensor perimeter about 25mm x 17mm stuff the inside of the tube with rockwool or fiberglass insulation, and wrap some fiberlgass insulation aroudn the outside, (spark plug protectors) Now place the tube directly on top of the sensor and heat the top part of the tube with a map or propane torch, the heat will travel down the tube and perfectly and evenly heat the sensors epoxies perimeter. It woudl probably be best to heat the tube up outside first so any contaminates are burned off. Next I have 2 questions: is there a company that will custom cut down a 2" narrow band pass filter to about 25x17MM so I an use it as a cover glass for my modified DSLR? What is the best way to clean the monochrome sensor? I was thinking of building a clear plastic box big enough for me to put my hands and a camera in and then having an air purifier unit clean the air for a day or two, possibly using a brush or tape to make sure all dust is removed. I find it really tedius to repeatedly put camera back to gether to test for dust bunnies and want to get it as clean as possible.