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About AlastairW

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    Star Forming

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    My wife, programming (and all things I.T.), scale car modelling, rock and acoustic guitar and of course astronomy.

    Flickr : www.flickr.com/photos/woowah
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  1. Thanks Steve :-) I was very surprised too at just 50 mins. I used my 130PDS OTA for this (HEQ5), 5 slot manual filter wheel and a Baader 7nm Ha filter. I shot 10x5 min lights at the 'unity' gain setting and cooled the 1600 to -15. I used APT for acquisition and PHD2 (50mm finder/guider + QHY5L-IIc) for guiding. Interestingly I didn't use any darks, flats or bias either.
  2. 2nd outing with my recently purchased 1600mm-c. Very pleased with this camera so far and results with only 50mins of data.
  3. AlastairW

    Messier and NGC Objects

    Messier and NGC objects photographed from October 2013. All captured using a Sky-watcher 150p on an EQ3-2 with RA and Dec motors. Two cameras used; Canon 350d and Canon 1000d (now modded).
  4. Thanks very much Michael :-)
  5. Thank you so much but I'm a little embarrassed as I haven't been solar imaging for very long and very much feel I'm on the shoulders of giants :-) I was amazed at the level of prominence detail in the Chromosphere version of the Quark as I really wasn't expecting it given it's designed for surface detail.
  6. Hi Ian, Thanks for the very helpful advice. I set up in the garden whenever possible but sometimes I have to position on my patio area to get a good line of sight, which isn't ideal as we're quite overlooked from the East-West, West so it's tricky this time of year. I've seen a lot of posts containing info on seeing conditions for solar observing/imaging. Do you know of a live app/website that provides this info ? I'm very much a "if there's little cloud I'll set up" type of person but perhaps I need to plan my sessions with a little more accuracy to get the best results. Problem is, solar observing is exceptionally addictive :-)
  7. Thanks Charles for your very kind words. I decided to rework a couple of my pics in mono and this is very much my preferred format that I'll be sticking to now. As you say, there's a lot of detail gets washed out in the colour versions. I've inverted my prom picture and it shows the filaprom up to the limb in far more detail.
  8. Thanks Charles :-) I'll be sure to post both mono and false colour images next time. Personally, I prefer mono Ha images (both solar and deep space objects) but the majority of people I speak to on a daily basis (non astronomers) tell me they prefer colour enhanced images.
  9. I'll give the good guys at FLO a call. The prospect of not touching the scope to focus is very appealing :-)
  10. Thanks Dave. I was sat there on Sunday thinking, now, if only I had a motorised focuser :-) I think I'm in the same boat as yourself. I replaced the stock focuser on the OTA for a dual speed crayford and while it has made a big difference in terms of precision focusing I'm not sure if I can fit the motorised kit without some mods to the focuser. Thanks for the link to Alexandra's post, this is exactly what I've been trying to achieve. Very helpful indeed, thank you :-)
  11. Thanks Dave :-) The 120mm f/8.3 seems to be a great match for the Quark. Yes, indeed, I have certainly been struggling with focusing on the past two outings. Sunday afternoon was my last outing and I spent more time focusing than imaging but it was more of a test of the tilt adapter I've just purchased (which works like a dream). I'm imaging with a Point Grey Blackfly (IMX249) mono GigE camera which has fairly large pixels and is a good match for close up detail with the 120mm. I've been shooting 30 seconds at 1920x1200 (approx 40fps). The fps on this camera is great and with an ROI of 640x480 I'm getting upwards of 70fps. I've been stacking 50% of the best frames in Autostakkert2 and then running through IMPPG for deconvolution and finishing up with a few sharpness, curve and level tweaks in Photoshop. I've been trying desperately to shoot a 30 second video for each tuning, i.e. -5 to +5 but the weather never plays ball for long enough :-) I'm finding that +2 or +3 is best for my setup. Here's some of the mono versions post deconvolution, which don't have the Photoshop tweaks. Sun_102524_g3_ap3656-deconv.tif Sun_103109_g3_ap3656-deconv.tif Sun_104411_g3_ap3-deconv-v3.tif
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