bosun21

I had something similar with my new SW mount. My reticle was loose inside and had to be repositioned. It’s a pain to get it perfectly centered so that you can rotate your RA through its full motion and the polar scope centre doesn’t move. Took me about an hour.

Happened to me last week as well.

I bought the 12 v heater element that simply sits flat inside and works fantastic.

From a Celestron LT power pack

I also experienced several phantom disconnects with my asiair plus until I placed all my dew heaters onto their own separate power source. This solved the problem immediately.

Bortle 5 unfortunately, but I have recently gained access to bortle 3 skies which I am going to make the most of. Hopefully this will increase my chances. Should I be using a H beta filter straight from the go? Thanks

The Skywatcher Skymax is a decent and competent telescope for sure. It’s fantastic for all the planets and even imaging them is doable. It’s also decent for the smaller, brighter DSO’s. I have seen people using 0.5x or 0.6x reducers in them to increase the FOV, although I have no experience of doing this. I bought my 127 on the alt/az go to mount which served me well for over a year, which I still use to grab a quick session between clouds. The downsides of Skymax is that they take a while to cool down to reach ambient temperature and that they are dew magnets. The later is easily solved with a heated dew shield. Good luck with whatever you choose.

What bortle are your skies? The HH continues to elude me 🤔

I just got to add that I ended up buying the Berlebach Charon a month or so ago. I opted for the better build of the Charon over the Geoptik Nadira and I am pleased that I did. The quality is very good and it’s one of the best astronomy purchases I’ve ever made. No more aching back and neck, and the height adjustment is great especially when using my frac on an EQ mount.

The optics can only be pinched if you actually tighten the screws on the three brackets that hold the mirror in place. As you didn’t remove your mirror to gain access to these screws it’s got to be the collimation you have knocked out of alignment. You will have it looking sharp again no problem.

Did you sync your scope to the mount after polar alignment. Once you polar align you should slew to another part of the sky and plate solve. Once the plate solve is complete hit the sync to mount. This works for me each time. HTH

They have some discrepancies

Thanks , that’s makes a lot more sense. It’s definitely an interesting little scope.

Wow! 5.5kg for a 62mm frac. But definitely worth considering.

The Nevada PSU is designed for indoor use only so be aware of this if you decide to use it outside. I use a waterproof extension lead and a large clear pvc(Tupperware) box with lid to place my Nevada and extension plug socket inside. You can’t be too careful when using 240v outside in the damp dew filled grass.

Thanks again for the information and that’s good to know. I have a 256GB memory stick with both USB3 and USBC male ends on it which I originally had in one of the USB3 ports on the asiair. I was thinking of using the C end to attach it to the asiair, as the C port is after all the data download port. I have at present fitted a 128GB memory card into its respective slot.

Last delivery of the year from DPD for me. I had to return my 2” L-Enhance to FLO for a refund as I have added an electronic filter wheel and buy the 1.25” version. Oh and the book “Every Photon Counts”

I have just bought a usb 2 way splitter to accommodate my Electronic filter wheel and my Electronic focuser. Thank the stars I don’t need another camera 🙂

No, unfortunately I am using a new ASI585 MC which only has a ST4 port. I’ve added a usb2 splitter to accommodate my EFW. Thanks 👍

Yes, after researching more I have bought a usb 2 way splitter and I will double up the EAF and the filter wheel. Thanks 👍

I need another usb2 port for my EAF as i have used all four on my asiair plus. Can I use the usb C port to operate it? Thanks

How can my asiair plus control my electronic focuser via a hub?

I have just bought a new ASI585 MC and used it once but I have now run out of USB ports on my asiair plus. it looks like I’ll need to fork out £1K for a cooled camera just to get another usb2 port for my new filter wheel. I’m beginning to think it was a bad idea trying astrophotography. Expensive it sure is.

Why don’t ZWO and other camera manufacturers not fit an additional usb2 port on their uncooled cameras? I decided to try EEVA and AP to see whether I have a future with this branch of astronomy. I have run out of USB ports on my asiair plus and can’t connect my new electronic filter wheel and also had to unplug my 256GB memory stick. I am using the four ports with my ASI585 MC, my ASI120MM guide camera, my mount and my EAF. This try out has been expensive to say the least and now I have to find at least £1K for a cooled camera. Why don’t they fit at least one on their uncooled cameras. It’s maddening and expensive to say the least.

Could it be a TAK- FS60 CB by any chance?🤔 (sorry I didn’t see the previous duplicate post DOH!)