bosun21

They don’t do anything at all apart from the lock screw will stop me being able to lift out the draw tube. When I do and let it go it drops like a stone.

Come now Mike I’ve been doing this for a little while now 😂 I know all about the tension adjustment and the focus lock screw. That’s the first thing I tried. With the tension screw tightened to maximum the draw tube still won’t move but it’s loose to lift out and if you let it go it just drops like a stone. The four screws that fix it to the tube were really loose and the entire focuser was moving side to side. Quality control is non existent here. Did you watch the video I posted?

I have just finished building my newly delivered Stella Lyra 12” dobsonian and the focuser won’t move in any direction. The draw tube can be lifted loosely up and it just falls straight down. The axis of the focuser knobs also has lateral and vertical play. I’m peeved as I’ll be dammed if I have to strip it all back down to return to FLO. Any ideas anyone? 69533642334__263DE029-58B4-4554-910E-960B9F00C567.MOV

When I first joined SGL John was ever so helpful to me and my incessant questions. I will miss his valued input. He has sadly joined the heavens rather than observing them. My heartfelt condolences to his family.

No I have just started building the base and I’m going to use it for first light without doing anything to it, to ensure that it’s optically sound. Once this is determined then I’ll do the modifications. Had I modified anything and the scope was a dud then the warranty is void.

My new heavy duty bearing arrived this morning for my new 12” dobsonian. Just need to buy some short countersunk screws to secure it to the base.

The 12” is 300mm longer focal length. Once I have got it built up and done my modifications to it I’ll measure the height of it. Thanks Clive Ian

Do you reckon it could accommodate the SL 12”? Or is that asking a bit too much from it?. Thanks

It is, The OP was talking about adjusting the secondary Allen screws with the scope pointing up!

I’ve already sold two as well 😂

Your making me feel old 👶

Wonder what this can be?🤔

Welcome to the lounge 👋. Better to just fit Bobs Knobs and then there’s no tools required and it’s so much quicker.

We’ve all sold kit that we have instantly regretted doing so. I doubt it will be my last.

I’ve got David Lukehurst building me an equatorial platform at the moment. Lovely man.

It will depend on the length of your exposures I reckon. The longer the exposure the more accurate you need to be.

Will do Peter, I have been inspired by watching Tiagos YouTube channel Dobsonian Power, where he is achieving fantastic results using both an 8” and 12” dob. He has them on an equatorial platform and simply a camera and laptop using sharpcap I believe. Cheers 🥂

Did you have adjust the trusses for this to work? I don’t have that option with mine being a solid tube. Thanks

As far as I understand as long as you have a decent polar alignment then slew to a bright star away from Polaris and centre it. Then sync the software to your mount. All the well known Sky software works with Nina/ASCOM etc. Someone with vastly more astrophotography experience will be along to keep you on the rails. Good luck

I’ve actually bought the Stella Lyra 12” dobsonian and a new Maxbright II binoviewer. Baader stated that it’s been discontinued, so not going to be restocked. As I’ve just sold my 102ED Starfield I can’t use them at all. If I knew that a 2.5 power mate would work then I would buy one, but I don’t want to buy on the off chance that it will work. So Baader have left everyone with a Newtonian screwed if they buy their binoviewer. I think I’ll be sending the Maxbright II’s back for a refund. As they are useless to me without the Corrector.

If you just type in Asiair plus tutorial on YouTube you get many. The one I found most helpful is this one 👇 I also enquired about Stellarium but it’s only designed to accept Sky Safari. To be honest it’s that accurate at target acquisition and annotation you don’t need either . HTH Ian

I have just ordered a 12” dobsonian but for the life of me I can’t seem to track down the Baader GPC for Newtonians. Does it have to be this specific one or can another one from a different manufacturer work just as well? I’ve been quoted April at the earliest. Thanks Edit: I have now been told by Baader that they have discontinued it. I now have an expensive paperweight.

Where can I buy the Baader glass path corrector used for binoviewing with a Newtonian (dobsonian) ? I can’t find one anywhere. Can anything else be used like a coma corrector etc. I am not buying another pair of Maxbright II if I can’t use them in my 12” dobsonian. Anyone with knowledge or experience of this please. Thanks

Same thing! It’s the offset of the black ring that makes us think the reflection of the cap and donut are offset when in fact they are perfectly centered as proven by the Cheshire wires

Hi all @PeterC65 this was my first capture that I actually tried to do a bit of processing with. Boy that processing is a complicated business for sure. Gimp, Siri, Pixins, Photoshop etc. I just copied the steps of someone on a YouTube video. Got to learn someway. I am beginning to lean towards AP but still enjoy EEVA. The color is a little off I think, but I was still chuffed.