bosun21

I will giving both the 12” dobsonian and the 8SE a first spin tomorrow night.I have bought a short 2” WO visual back and the WO 2” diagonal that allows me to remove the nosepiece from the diagonal and screw on to the visual back. This enables the 8SE to slew to the Zenith without the diagonal hitting the battery compartment. FLO have sent me a replacement focuser for the dobsonian so fingers crossed that the Clear outside app is accurate for tomorrow.

Just buy a 2 way splitter cable for your binoviewer eyepieces and then the other can do your objective.

I was under the impression that he was using or enquiring about using an asiair plus. I have obviously been mistaken in my assumption. Apologies. Ian

Ensure that you get the spacing correct . With the 15.5 mm spacer already attached and if you leave the black 11mm spacer on your camera (ZWO) then all you need to add is 22mm of spacers (spacer) accounting for the 6.5mm sensor depth. Good luck Stu.

If you don’t mind me asking Olly, why do you still keep the Crayfords you have? I agree and only like them on dobsonians due to them having no vertical load. Thanks.

I always thought they were hybrids. But they work well compared to mine ATM.

Don’t worry I’ll provide you with both first light reports as soon as these dammed clouds depart. I generally try to avoid the Bicester centre as it can be an expensive place to frequent. Once again a huge thank you to yourself and your lovely very understanding wife. PS:- Have you confirmed with Paul that you dropped off his AZ EQ6 at mine? As I would like Paul to give me 24 hours notice of his collecting it so that I can arrange to be at home. Regards Ian

Thanks ever so much Steve. I have already sent an email to FLO with the video showing the offending focuser. I will remove it from the tube and package it then await the Return code etc. That’s put my mind at rest. Regards Ian

I agree with you 100%. I actually bought a 70mm starsense refractor solely to cannibalize the Starsense unit, which I hastily did. On nights I was out with my Maksutov I started bringing the 70mm refractor. I was really impressed with the views of Jupiter and Saturn complete with rings. Definitely a great little starting scope. I eventually passed it on to someone who holds viewing nights with the scouts.

Last but not least today A Celestron Nexstar 8SE which was very kindly delivered to me by @Stu1smartcookie. Thank you. Fitted my spare new Telrad with a 2” riser to it. Now to work on the visual back, diagonal etc.

Bought a new Telrad and 2” riser plate for my new dobsonian but I have now fitted a Starsense on it along with its own RACI. Going to mount it on my also new to me Celestron Nexstar 8SE. I also got a dew shield for my 12” dobsonian.

Sounds like a faulty Nevada power supply. I change all my inline fuses like the one in the cigarette plug from quick blow to slow blow. If the LED Is illuminated by her car socket then it points to the Nevada (I presume it’s a Nevada). Remember that the on/off switch is reversed to normal electrical switches. IE: it’s up for on and down for off. Is the Nevada lighting up?

Finally got my new dobsonian built up but I’m not happy about the focuser. Will email @FLO on Monday morning. I am happy to do a focuser replacement but I’m not stripping the 12” down, base and all to return it

Yes I intend to check my focuser for any unwanted tilt and shim it if required. You have to be careful shimming the focuser as any small gaps created can let in stray light. I need to get it working properly first. I really hope that FLO can just send me a replacement focuser from one of the 10 left in stock. I am not sending the entire telescope and base back. Regards Ian

I would be perfectly happy with that but I ain’t sending the whole scope back, disassembling the Dobson mount etc. Major pain in the proverbial.

Need your telescope details before I can make any assumptions or advice.

It’s 5” in diameter not 8”. Look up the figures on the label ie D = diameter = 130mm and the focal length being 1020mm. I’m pretty sure you will find a manual online but as for spare parts? That could be a problem.

This is exactly what I have found. Put in my Hotech laser collimator and the laser was on the ceiling. Sacked that and resorted to a Cheshire and collimation cap. Talk about way out!. I’ve now got it almost bang on with everything concentric and the donut bang centre. I will fine tune it tomorrow when I buy some new batteries for my Hotech (they died). Changing the primary springs was a pain compared to the 8” but all done and dusted now. Just got the heavy duty roller bearing to fit after I’ve had first light.Want to make sure it’s a keeper before I void the warranty by making screw holes on the base

I am actually an electrical engineer myself (retired) Cracked it once I got to grips with the internals.

Cracked it! Inside the focuser there is bearing plate that has adjustment grub screws which were all loose causing no friction on the draw tube. I tightened them a few turns and replaced the draw tube. Better but not right enough. Rinsed and repeat until it’s now how it should be. I am still going to upgrade this Crayford in the very near future. Now to replace the primary springs to a heavier gauge of wire and fit my aluminum Bobs knobs on my secondary holder. Gauging by the QC on this I wonder how far the collimation is out. I have also bought a heavy duty roller bearing for the azimuth movement but I want to ensure it’s optically sound before I poke screw holes in the baseplate voiding the warranty. It’s a labor of love for me. Thanks for everyones input. It’s appreciated. Ian

I know but I really can’t be doing with the hassle. If I can’t fix it I’ll just buy a new R&P Baader Steeltrack.

That’s the plan I have started to do. These SL Crayfords don’t have any type of plate that you can remove unlike all others I’ve seen. I am going to upgrade it to a R&P maybe a Baader steeltrack or similar.

They have been in every position you can possibly imagine.

It’s absolutely nothing to do with the two silver thumbscrews. I’ve had the tension screw all the way in and it does zero.

Yes there are three small screws. One in between the two thumb screws and two below them. I tried various combinations of different positions for them to no avail. I reckon they may be a push/pull set up so I am going to remove the focuser and strip it down completely to see exactly what’s going on internally. The entire focuser was loose on the tube and was moving side to side. I didn’t expect this grief after unboxing a new scope.