wulfrun

You'll probably get a better view using the 25mm and no barlow, that gives you 30x and just over 1-degree field of view (FOV). If you use the barlow, you'll not fit all of the nebula in the FOV (it'll be halved with a 2x barlow). Try it and see though, you might want to get a closer look at some parts.

Nice idea, unfortunately it'd mean "garden-hopping", it's an adjacent street whose garden backs onto the end of my next-door neighbour's. It's just possible I may have "garden-hopped" in a mis-spent youth (as a prank and not with illegal intent, I might add) but not at my present age thanks. I may go around and ask them, politely, to re-aim/re-adjust it. It's probably coincidence but they do seem always to have it on on cold, clear (astro-friendly) nights but not all nights.

Seems very clear here (and very cold), not much twinkling going on. Counted 10, which tells me what I already knew, not a good result. Just spent an hour being irritated by insecurity lights. The most annoying does on-off-on-off ad nauseam because it's close to a boiler flue and can "see" the plume. Aaaargh!

Just watched Marcella, season 3 Ep 2 last night. There's a white, 130-ish sized reflector by the window in one scene - pointing the wrong way, of course! 🙂

Best get the solar filter ordered now, there'll be no chance nearer the time. Knowing UK weather, it'll be cloudy. Saying that, I photographed the 1999 one so fingers crossed.

I think the only way to decide if a zoom is for you or not is to buy one and try it. I like them, others do, others don't. It's a personal thing. Get a budget one like one of the SVbony range, if you don't like it you can sell it on and be down very little. Get a premium one and do the same, with a higher chance it'll sell on easily if you don't like it. None of them will compete with a wide-angle for FOV, whether that matters depends on your use. You already have longer FLs that you like though.

That would be hard to define, I suspect. Which zoom versus which fixed EP? On what target, under what circumstances? Or in a lab? Zooms involve compromises - but then again, so do fixed EPs. I think the question should be "will I notice in most circumstances?"

I have the SVbony 7-21 and a Hyperflex 7.2-21.5 zooms (long story why I have both). The Hyperflex does really well in my fast, small newt and possibly has the edge there. In the longer FL newt there's really not much to split them but the Hyperflex is 50% dearer. Both of them are lacking for FOV at the longer end so I dug deeper for an ES20/68-degree to cover that use. Zooms aren't for everyone's taste but I like the ability to dial-in on what magnification I want or need and I'm a very happy user. I know they aren't "premium" but I think they're excellent performance-for-money.

Just found this comparison via FLO's site, might help you decide which is better for you: https://www.cloudynights.com/articles/cat/user-reviews/accessories/finderscopes/rigel-quick-finder-and-telrad-r795

Another bit of info, the Telrad itself is 220mm long (overall) and the base it goes on is 180mm x 60mm. Wise to check if you have space available and ideally you need to get up-close to the screen. You can get risers to lift it higher though. Swings and roundabouts eh?

It comes with sticky pads that you use to attach the base with, then the finder is retained on the base, yes. Two thumbscrews and it fits so the alignment is preserved. EDIT: general advice is to try the base with zip-ties or something such before committing to the sticky pads for final attachment once you're happy with positioning.

That's a cheeky one! £40 when they are £38 (plus P&P) and in stock at FLO?

I forgot to mention - the Telrad is quite a brick, just be aware it's not small. The Rigel has a smaller footprint but is tall instead. If you go with either, just know that first.

I acquired one of those on a second-hand scope I bought and I've replaced it, I did not get on with it. As "normal" RDFs seem to go it's ok, maybe better than an actual RDF (dot) but the mounting is a bit wobbly and the display is, for me, too bright even on the lowest setting. Not trying to put you off it but the Rigel or Telrad finders are vastly better for only a little more money, even if their aesthetics aren't very pleasing.

No harm in trying it is there? If it helps one person recover gear it's not in vain. One problem is proving the ownership of said equipment - how many of us, years down the line, still have receipts and have documented serial numbers? Speaking of which, not all astro gear carries one, which seems to be becoming the norm on mass-produced stuff in general (not just astro).

Wot no "Avatar"?

And another download, with an accompanying "thanks" 🙂

You'll have to excuse the pedant in me...if you can see it, it would be there all night I'd hope (weather-permitting) 🙂 (I couldn't resist, abolutely no offence meant)

RoHS stands for "Restriction of Hazardous Susbtances", it's a certification mark not a maker's name.

Maybe I'm missing something but why not use the "pointer stars" of the big dipper? Polaris should be really easy to find, provided it's actually in your line of sight. No apps required, no compass required.

I'll happily do it, in the event that I actually get to see Orion! The answer will be "not many".

I was a newbie here back in November ish - and guess what - I still am! I think I've had five nights out with a scope. Last night started clear and clouded over before it was properly dark. Tonight's looking the same. Not helpful to try and build experience but it certainly builds frustration. I'd be delighted to add reports if I had anything to report on.

Have a look on the mount for a rating-plate or in the manual*. That'll probably show a worst-case figure but go a little higher to save on nuisance-blowing of your fuse. I'd guess somewhere around 2A if you can't find any better indication. If it blows regularly without an obvious cause, increase it a bit, maybe 5A. However you connect up, be extra, EXTRA careful not to reverse the polarity or your mount will almost certainly die. In fact, I recommend you fit a suitable diode somewhere in the line so it can't happen. *FLO's spec suggests it uses 0.75A but there might be spikes a bit higher.

Too powerful would be using the wrong voltage (too high). If your device is rated 12V, then that battery is fine. It'll draw whatever current it requires, the battery isn't 20A it's 20Ah. That means it can supply (in theory) 20A for an hour or 2A for 10 hours or whatever. In reality the rating is usually for 20hr, so 1A for 20 hours but at 20A it might be only half an hour. The main thing is to have an in-line fuse, physically as close to the battery terminal (positive is conventional) as practical - in case there's an accidental short-circuit or fault. The other thing is not to over-discharge the battery and always re-charge after use or if unused for a month or so.

Since I own one, I can confirm the Virtuoso can indeed be mounted on a suitable tripod. You'll need something beefy though, since it's not lightweight. The Virtuoso will track an object once you've found it but it will only track at sidereal rate. This means it'll follow "fixed" things like stars, nebulae etc but it'll drift off for planets and the Moon - though not too quickly in reality. You can upgrade it to a full got-to with the synscan, although I haven't so can't comment on how well that works. In tracking mode, you just need to set your location once and after that you need to align it north-south each time you switch it on.