bilbo

That would be one alternative, but they'e not cheap and can be problematic. The HD pro wedge & matching CPC tripod costs the equivalent of $1,000 here in the UK and the guy would still have a low quality mount that doesn't like the pole area. For long exposure AP the only real way to go is with an eq mount, Short exposure stacking works well enough in alt/az can be derotated in software, But really needs a very fast scope and the images will need to be cropped. From what I can see in the pics, The OP also seems to be using a standard SCT reducer on an Edge HD which is not going to produce great results. Steve

Instead of going "straight" Use a short diagonal such as the baader T2. https://www.baader-planetarium.co.uk/shop/baader-90-32mm-t-2-prism-diagonal/ The optical length is much shorter. Reducer/SCT to T adapter/T Diagonal/Camera & spacers (if needed) Avoid wedges with Evo mounts Steve

All the work is done within the AA+, The tablet is for remote display and sending instructions., Once you've told the AA+ what you want it to do it just "gets on with it". Naturally the better the tablet the less problems you will come across. Wifi capabilities vary a lot. If you have a decent laptop try running the Bluestacks Android emulator. I use it on my win10 laptop. The laptop has proper antenna's giving a better signal/range than my both my Ipad and Ipad pro Steve

Take a look at https://theskylive.com/ Great for info on what's "Up" Steve

Don't confuse EAA for observing with the usual EAA as a quick entry into pretty pictures. The idea from the start was to"see" beyond the visual limits of your scope. Astronomy not photograpy. If it's within the limits of your scope use your eye's if not use a camera. Steve

I have found its all down to the boards & chipsets used in laptops and the power that is supplied to them which is shared by many internal components.. My 8m lindy pro and others work internittently or not at all if I plug them directly into my laptop, The solution is to use a powered hub. Laptop == Hub == Exlension == Camera Laptop == Hub == Exlension == Hub == Camera (for more complex setups) Steve

The only driver you need is the first one that says "MUST" The direct show & ascom drivers only clutter things up. Steve

I've started a new post for the benefit of anyone needing info on these drives in the future. Thanks to xsubariner for the "manual" There seems to be a few variations on these, Simple variable speed rotation. Dome needs to be moved by hand to new position after backing off knobs RF Remote via a velleman kit (my type), A key fob remote with forwards / backwards is used to slew the dome to the new position. Backwards rotation should be done inbetween the regular pulses which rotate the dome forwards Shelyak interface which allows computer control of the tracking If anyone can add info/pics of their "variants" I'm sure it will be appreciated Rigel Dome Controller Installation Manual.pdf

Brill Thats the one I have, I've actually removed it from the dome now (which is in parts) to take a look. The key fob does slew the dome forward & backwards which is a big, big plus for me, As pulsar told me otherwise I'll post a new topic with pics and the instuctions in case anyone else needs this info in the future All the best Steve

Hi All After completely giving up the idea of a permanent dome and even selling my Meade 14, I have found myself with a 2.2m Pulsar dome. The dome is the current model but came with an older simple Rigel rotation drive, The type with an On/Off switch and speed control. In the course of dismantling the dome we found a spare door key and a Velleman key fob type remote. A closer look at the Rigel control box revealed a Velleman control unit inside which I assume is the receiver. Main question is what is the remote for. Speed or does it slew the dome. Any other info on these units would be a great help. Thanks Steve

Its the Altair (purple) The pro & pro tec use up different amounts of your back focus. 12.5mm on the pro, 17.5mm on the protec (as I annoyingly found out) So the pro needs 97mm spacers, The pro tec 92mm. Back of reducer (not threads) to face of camera T connection. Or at least it would in a perfect world. Then there is reality. At least you've got things on the right track. Steve (waiting for the rain to stop nr west auckland so I can take the dog out)

What camera are you using? Steve

Good to see you’re in the right direction. Distance does look a little long but I wouldn’t worry about it too much. The reducer can be spaced short/long throughout a wide range so play about to find what gives the best results for your sensor. Have fun Steve

No, That was the first thing I looked for. I have now found out it is in fact threaded. So I need a scrap 2" extension to screw in from the opposite side. I'll drill two holes in the extension and place a bar or screwdriver through the holes. (Circular box spanner) as it tightens it will unscrew the adapter unless it strips the threads first