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Spile last won the day on March 13

Spile had the most liked content!

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About Spile

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    Star Forming

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    Analogue (live naked-eye) viewing and learning with binoculars and a 200mm Dobsonian mount reflector
    Looking for and finding 1) asterisms and constellations, 2) stars esp. coloured binaries/doubles 3) planets 4) meteors especially low and long ones 5) planets and planetary moons esp. Saturn, Jupiter and Uranus 6) Our moon esp. craters 7)DSO's (clusters, nebulae, galaxies) 8) ISS and Satellites
    Visiting dark skies 2) Alice Springs, Hawaii, North Norfolk and visitor centres like Keck, Leicester Space Centre

    Non-Astro: ESP32, Raspberry Pi, CAMRA Craft beer and real ale, FLAC audio, Jazz Rock, Krautrock, Ambient and Classical Music.
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  1. To move the secondary away from the primary (to the left) you would need to tighten the outer bolts and therefore loosen the centre screw so I do not understand what you mean by "screwed on"? Once the secondary is axially centred I would correct the tilt/rotation error to make the primary mirror reflection circular.
  2. That is interesting but does not answer my question. What do you believe the concentre does that makes it "better" than other collimation methods? I totally get that for you it might be easier to use, but I think that if you are going to make such a bold claim it would be useful to back it up and least provide at least a little more information on the why.
  3. In addition to the above it means that I do not need to use the 1.25” adapter. My other EP also being 2”.
  4. That is quite a definitive statement. Why do you believe that to be true and what evidence do you have for that claim?
  5. I have the 200P and I use a homemade cap and a Celestron Cheshire Sight tube combination tool. To confirm that everything is OK, I take a photo through the sight tube and overlay the image with concentric circles using the same colour scheme used by Vic Menard and Jason Khadder...
  6. This is what I do when it comes to the secondary… Initial steps/checks… 1) SPIDER VANE: UP/DOWN/LEFT RIGHT - Spider vane screws(4) - Check with ruler/pair of compasses/circle of paper to ensure centre screw is equidistant from wall of OTA. 2) TILT: OUTER BOLTS (3) - Move the secondary away from the primary by tightening each bolt until resistance is felt by each bolt. The secondary is now positioned sufficiently central in respect of the primary. The next adjustments will take into account any minor adjustment errors made above. 3) AXIAL: UP/DOWN OUTER BOLTS (3)
  7. I would work on the secondary tilt/rotation error and then align the primary.
  8. I read a few guides in order to find conflicts and identify those that suit me. I like https://dbpeckham.com/Telescope/Collimation/Collimation.htm
  9. I took my iPad out last night and used Star Chart. It is free so appealed to me (!) and I was quite impressed. It never seems to get mentioned with everyone using Sky Safari.
  10. I use one or more off Telrad, RACI and SkEye indirect mode!
  11. Antares was a jumping orange mess for me last night so no split. I did manage to split A B C and D (All BW) of Nu Scorpii (Jabbah) as a consolation but B was only just so a 4* Beta Scorpi (Acrab) A (YW) and C (YB) was a superb 4*
  12. In which I would only use the non magnifying finder when locating the closest naked eye object, then moving onto the RACI from that point. Personally I cannot use the RACI for the first point of location. The straight through finder was easier in that respect but my back didn't cope well with that.
  13. That is the one I have. It works fine and is reasonably priced. Sorry for blank posts - cannot find the delete button so mods please remove two posts above
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