Pixies

Any EPs you get now will be transferable to another scope that you might get later on. Certainly the reviews of this scope criticise the EPs in particular. https://telescopicwatch.com/celestron-powerseeker-114eq-review/ Bear in mind that we are entering a 2 month period of light skies. Also, there have been a LOT of recent telescope purchases due to the lockdown (judging by the number of out-of-stock products). I reckon that you should get the EPs now and if you wait a couple of months, they'll be quite a few new scopes going secondhand, as some people might realise that this hobby isn't for them.

There's one in the ForSale section just now:

I've been speaking to Stardaze about our collimation 'journeys'! I've been sticking with a collimation cap for now, although I'll get something else once I've gotten a little more experience. I've been aligning the secondary as per AstroBaby but have tested things using a smartphone camera (tiny lens) though the cap and Mire de Collimation to double-check the concentricity (is that a word) of the circles. These are the pics adjusting the secondary - before the final primary adjustment.

Do you have a collimation cap? It's very hard to get a centered picture with a smartphone camera without one. Here's mine. Also - have you seen Astro Baby's collimation guide?

Some new secondary adjustment bolts (Amazon - £6 for 10) Bob's Knobs would have had to do a custom job, I'm afraid. I'm not sure how suitable these will be, but there's little money lost.

Number 2 in a collection of 2

Start of a collection.

Yes, but at infinity, the depth of field is effectively infinite too, irrespective of a few inches in aperture? The depth of focus is much tighter, so you have to be more precise to get a focus at the EP. But I can't see how parts of a planet require different focussing when it is at such a great distance?

Hi John, This puzzles me slightly. If the object is at infinity (practically), then won't the depth of field be infinite too? I can understand that the depth of focus at the eye could be shorter - so more precise focussing is required to get it in focus. But I can't see how part of a planet could be in focus, and another not? Sorry if I have misunderstood.

LOL - No problem. I took it as it was meant!

Ask Bob (he of the Knobs). He'll be able to confirm what was there originally.

Hi. Immerse yourself in the first few pages of this fascinating pinned post: I upgraded the basic eyepieces with a few BST StarGuiders. They are a huge improvement and well-regarded here as a very cost-effective upgrade. They are usually a stepping-stone on to some more expensive upgrades, so they regularly come up second-hand.

Saw the comet in an 8" dob. Just a smudge, but definitely there.

this one looks better for that: https://www.blocklayer.com/protractor-print.aspx

It this an improvement on the silver (and now white) laminate surface used on the alt and az bearings of Bresser dobs?

Oh no. That's sickening. Not being silly - how about a DIY truss project? Use the top end of the old f6 OTA (with your undamaged optics and focuser) and the bottom end of your damaged one for the primary section?

Tell me about it! At least there's less chance of doing any damage now. Shame you can't get M4 nylon-tipped set screws long enough for this.

Thanks. I tried it that way first, but the screws went straight through the plastic before I had even tightened them up. Obviously the ends are VERY sharp. I didn't bother trying to file them down as they are being replaced shortly. I've also seen some other posts describing having the plastic washer between metal washer and holder, so gave it a go, and it feels great. I'll see how it goes when I have the new screws. I might change things round then.

Hmmmm. Clashes with our 20th wedding anniversary... 🤦‍♂️

All fixed and feeling quite chuffed, now. After checking that removing the secondary wouldn't invalidate my warranty, I duly did and found the state of the holder (pic below). No recesses cut for the screws apart from the ones that the screws cut themselves! I'm still waiting on new adjusting screws, but I have managed to get a suitable washer (M6 x 50mm for the record - as John has also suggested). I decided to additionally try a milk-carton plastic washer to assist with reducing friction. I was a little worried that it might mean too little friction and I would have to really crank the bolts tight to keep it from rotating and was prepared to remove it if necessary. Initially I had it on the screw-side, but they cut through it immediately. Then I tried it on the holder side, and it seemed fine (pic below). I put it all back together and did a quick line-of-sight adjustment. It feels soooooo much better now. Perhaps because I'm more confident in it now, and less worried I'm going to break something. I can tighten the adjuster screws enough to make the mirror very solid, without having to crank it up. I'll have some new hex-headed stainless machine screws arriving shortly and I'll see how they go. I won't bother with Bob's Knobs just yet, as hopefully this will now be solid enough to mean it won't need adjusting very often. I'll do a proper collimation tomorrow. I'm feeling much more confident now. Probably because I've now seen how everything works. Primary mirror next then! 😬

Sorry - I use the term generically now. A satellite flare, then.

That's an iridium flare, isn't it?

M4 (30mm) on the 8" Not sure what the centre screw is yet, though.

If I can get it to stay aligned with the arms, it's OK. But usually, as I tighten it, it rotates slightly. I can usually get it at the correct rotation, but when I then try to fine-tune its alignment with the primary, it's pops back to the wrong position. It took a while to work out what was going on, as it has screw heads, so I can't watch through the focusser as I adjust.

Thanks - but I'm still a little away from the need for that, yet.