Stuart1971
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Everything posted by Stuart1971
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@teoria_del_big_bang had a bit of a strange one since fitting my deep sky dad flats panel… I use the UPB V2 and have the panel connected to that along with my mount and QHY camera, and a mini PC on the always on 12v power port, and I noticed that when I power it all on the PC comes on, then a second later when the 4 power ports initialise and come on, the PC was going off….so I unplugged the flats panel, and tried again, and all came on as normal, so plugged it back in again, and same thing PC light comes on, the QHY, mount and flats panel come on and PC goes off, I can’t get the PC to stay on with the flats panel plugged in, unless I turn the panel on after all the others and the PC has booted up… Its like the surge of power to the 4 power ports takes it away from the other 12v always on port, but it’s fine with just mount and camera, but with the flats panel no chance…. Its not really an issue as the power ports can be controlled and turned on in NINA after it’s all booted up, but it still an a odd one, and I know you have the Pegasus UPB wondered if you had anything like this with yours…?? Stuart -
Astroberry Woes - Where's INDI Web Manager Gone?
Stuart1971 replied to Ian McCallum's topic in Discussions - Software
If you are running it all from the PI, then you have to have it set to localhost in your Ekos profile, then have a mount, and CCD connected, or use the simulators… -
Astroberry Woes - Where's INDI Web Manager Gone?
Stuart1971 replied to Ian McCallum's topic in Discussions - Software
I am a bit confused as to what you are trying to do, if you could explain I will be able to help, as I have use astroberry and Ekos for some years…. -
Astroberry Woes - Where's INDI Web Manager Gone?
Stuart1971 replied to Ian McCallum's topic in Discussions - Software
No, if you are trying to connect to indi, then your Ekos profile has to have at least a mount and a CCD camera connected other wise when you hit connect in Ekos, it will not work… -
Astroberry Woes - Where's INDI Web Manager Gone?
Stuart1971 replied to Ian McCallum's topic in Discussions - Software
You have to have a mount connected and in the profile before it will connect….👍🏼 -
Strange one…I too had a couple of odd errors tonight in NINA with my QHY268c, to do with the cooling graph, the temp was coming down on the camera, but the graph showed that cooler was not on, and the cooler power line was flat at the bottom of the chart…this changed after about a minute or so….🤔🤔
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I used my Deep sky dad flats panel too, set on 1000, and just turned off the light when needed too, but mine is under a black cover in a pitch black obsy, so no light leak very similar results really, but yours is Mono, so not sure what difference that should make…🤔🤔
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I would suspect there could be big difference between the tools used, but it’s no surprise really that the manufacturer would push the figures up, to make it more competitive in the market….
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I’m sure @vlaiv will be along soon to shed some light…👍🏼 i also got these figures but not sure what these mean, they came from the test in SC
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Also the read noise e/ADU never reaches 1e/ADU the highest is 0.78, so a unity gain in mode 1 is not possible, the QHY chart says that unity is gain zero in mode 1 @ 1e/ADU…🤔🤔 so all in all it’s a bit misleading, and if you look on the Sharpcap forums, many people have said the same that there findings don’t match the published charts…. Im not concerned at all, but it’s worth running the test in Sharpcap on your camera….👍🏼
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Fullwell shows 50,000 max on mine and published it over 60,000, on Mode 1 Also at gain 56 on mode 1 mine shows Fullwell of approx 23,000 and QHY chart shows over 30,000 On mode 0 at gain 26 mine shows approx 34,000 and QHY chart shows over 40,000 shall I go on…..😂😂
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Just ran the sensor analysis on my QHY268c and the results are quite surprising, as they do not match the published QHY charts at all….I think they made it look a lot more appealing as regards Fullwell especially… top one is Mode 1 and bottom one is the Mode 0 photographic mode…
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Which one have you bought…? Am looking for one myself…
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I use two of these on my side by side set up, with dual Tak scopes, and can say they are superb and well worth the money….👍🏼
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Tinkercad and then into cura for the slicing… here are the two files one for the cap and the other for the cup, the thread was tight, and had to use some force to screw it on, but after a few times on and off it loosened and is not perfect…I think I should have made the cup .5 mm less to get a better fit on the thread…. Desiccant Holder Lens Cap desiccant holder FSQ85.stl Desiccant Holder Lens Cap FSQ85.stl
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I can do but it will only fit one scope the Tak FSQ85, unless you know a way of resizing to fit others, and for the thread still to fit and work…?? If you do know let me know please, save me re designing for my other scopes….
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Love it…👍🏼👍🏼
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I actually designed and printed these for my two fracs, a simple dust cap but with built in desiccant holder, it just threads on the inside of the cap, and I use after each session, as long as the scope is dry, if not I run the dehumidifier for a few hours then put the cap on, seems to work well, also the scope is stored during summer with this on and one on the focus tube too, and checked every few weeks or so and change desiccant if required….
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Yes you did understand me, and I get it, thanks….👍🏼 DO CMOS camera BIN well…? As I know it’s different to binning CCD…?
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I totally get what you say here about pixel size, but many people moved from CCD to CMOS which have always had smaller pixels, yet one of the main things I read from people was “you only need short exposures with these camera 1 or 2 mins, but lots of them” well I get nothing in a 2 min sub….and need to use 5 mins at least, 🤔🤔🤔🤔 so we’re all those people referring to mono CMOS cameras, I suspect many were, but not all, and when they say “You need a lot of subs” how many is a lot….100, 200, 500…..?? I see regular images with my make and model of camera that are superb, with say 2 hours of data….this is when I get disheartened…. But am wondering how much my Idas P2 LP filter is hindering me, so I have bought the Optolong L-Extreme, to try…..🤞🤞
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I’m always confused by binning especially on CMOS, the pixels are there can can collect so much light, so by adding 4 together I get it collects four times the light but resolution is much smaller, but the pixels are still the same whether 4 individual ones collecting X amount of photons, or 4 together collecting the same amount….I don’t understand how it makes them more sensitive, how does it physically work, and can be so much better…. Not sure I have explained my question very well, apologies if not….🤔🤔
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Hmmmm, I may just try that….👍🏼 So 2x2 bin or 4x4…??
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I agree with you, and I think the issue is, all the superb images posted, taken with these cameras, gives you high expectations, and when it does not work out as expected it’s disappointing, I have the newer QHY268c with the IMX571 chip, and I too expected this to be better than my older SXVR M25c, but alas, is not the case, or at least no the case with me, 40mx 5 min subs with this CMOS camera, and the image leaves a hell of a lot to be desired….so my question, is where and how are all the fantastic images shown on here and other forums, produced, and what am I doing so wrong…. BTW, there is no calibration frames in this, just a RAW stack and straight out of APP, this was just to check what I had in the data…..not much was the answer….☹️
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Very nice, what amount and duration of frames in the CMOS image, and any filters used…?
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Anybody know of a cheap UV light for killing this sort of mould, it’s worth having one in case this ever happens to any of my scopes….I guess a blast with it every now and then will not hurt and could stop it in its tracks if there is any sign…?? Rather than pointing at the sun..😉
