Stuart1971

Ok get it now..👍🏼

The Dark flats should look just like dark frames, not green you need to cover the scope to take them, and should be the same length as the light flats….👍🏼

Also they are supposed to be DARK flats you are taking as it says at the bottom of the screen, yet you have not covered the scope for them…so all a bit odd…as They won’t work without normal light flats, so thats why they don’t work on your images….

First of all your flats have been flipped top to bottom between the green raw j age and the ones below…why.. Aslo you are way way behind on the NINA Version, we have been on BETA 2 now for mo the and are on version 49 of the BETAS…loads has changed including a lot to do with flats wizard….

Superb image, beautiful colours and the stars are kept so well under control for 15min subs….bravo…👏🏻👏🏻

The dark is not supposed to be pure black, and as has been said the bias is not subtracted from the dark, are your lights and darks taken at the same temp..? They should be. Simply put, What you are seeing above is correct, the first image shows the noise from the camera in the dark frame, when calibrated with the bias frames the noise has now gone, correct, but what you are now left with is the hot and cold pixels, (white dots on much darker background) which will also be in the light frames, when you calibrate the darks with these light frames they will then be removed from the light frames…also correct…so I don’t know what you are asking here…. Unless I am completely wrong, and it’s very possible….😂

I have the QHY version of the camera and use the high gain mode, gain 56 and offset 30, which is equivalent to your ASI on 100 gain, and was using 5 min subs, but found it was too much, so dropped to 2 mins and that is what i used for the rosette at the start of this thread, and that is with the L-Extreme narrowband filter too, so will be sticking with 2 min subs on that, and with broadband, will probably drop to 1 min or lower depending on brightness of the object, I have bortle 5-6 skies..👍🏼

I think the gap between OSC and mono has definitely gotten smaller, gone are the days where people can say that mono is better, it may still slightly have the edge, but OSC CMOS is for sure catching up, you say longer imaging times for mono, but with modern CMOS MONO cameras these are far quicker than older CCD mono cameras, so what was a long job to get a good mono image with CCD, is now much much quicker…and easily doable to get a good image in one session, with three filters to get through…even here in the UK… Like you, I have the 2600 sensor camera, and find it very good, now I have the hang of the gain and offset settings, as this was all new to me coming from a world of CCD, but I would consider the mono version too, when funds allow….😮👍🏼

I too use APP, but could not get the colours with my image, that you have got, in fact mine came out looking just like an RGB image, but I have not mastered using the sliders in the Combine tool yet..I also need to get around to trying starnet 2 also…👍🏼

Superb, love the colours, can I ask how you processed and in what software..?

Yes, you are correct, I just chose the HOO as I was directed too, will try some others and see what happens….👍🏼

Oh, it is deffo possible…just don’t know have….👍🏼

Me neither most of the time, I had to ask on the APP forum….😂

Interesting as I did not know how to process, so asked on the APP forum, and the mod on there sent me full instructions, and it did not include processing them separately, I had to put all the subs in and use the extract Ha tool, and then the same with the extract OIII, this then gave me two mono images, which I then had to put in the combine RGB tool, assign them to Ha and OIII, then it gave me a colour image which looked pretty much identical to the RGB processed image, so they then told me to increase one of the sliders on the OIII to 3x and this changed the colour from all red, to a blueish centre, OIII, with deeper red outer, Ha, not sure how to get other colours though….🤔🤔 so how would I process the two mono images separately or is there another way I should be doing this..?? In the end I stuck with the RGB processed version

Yes me too, different colours used there….along with @StuartT I also images the rosette the other night with my QHY268c and with 2 min subs, and processed in APP and the colour was nothing like that, although mine was just 1 hour of 2 min subs…. my image.. https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/391282-just-1-hour-of-2-min-subs-on-the-rosette-nebula/#comment-4216083 Still and excellent image by the way…👍🏼

I used 2 min subs in mine with the L-Extreme, as you need to swamp any read noise, so a decent amount of signal is always good…👍🏼

Well, the L-Etreme filter only passes Ha and OIII and is designed to use with OSC cameras, so in APP, you stack the data twice, ones too extract the Ha and again to extract the OIII, then you end up with two mono images which you combine and assign Ha and OIII, TBH the image comes out pretty much the same when processed as RGB, so it was not really worth the effort in the end…

Superb image, and only one hour, I posted an image of this target a couple of days ago with just 1 hour with the same filter and camera…well mine is the QHY version….👍🏼 BTW what sub lengths did you use…?? this was mine

Nothing wrong with that at all, well done…👍🏼 maybe focus could be a tad tighter, and dont worry about trying to get the sky completely black, as it’s not black, you could stretch that a bit more and get more of a neutral slightly lighter background…

Absolutely we are all here and in it together, and to help each other…is the way to learn and get better…..👍🏼

😂😂 yes changing the graph was mentioned above….tounge in cheek….😂😂

Yes it was meant to be funny, but not sure it came across that way….😂😂

I feel your pain here too, and totally get what you mean, I can get bad graphs like yours and still get great images with round stars, and also good smooth graphs with not so good stars, it makes no sense…but at the end of the day, it’s the quality of the stats in the final image that count. One way to smooth your graph, is to alter the scale on it, so at leat 8x or higher…this works well…👍🏼

I think we have moved away from my original issue, why does PHD2 choose a star that’s well over saturated and has no peak and is flat, yet the saturation label stays green, does not make sense to me, I had to reduce the gain down to 40 from over 200 on my ASI174m to get a peak on the star…

I think you are confused, there is the option to use saturation by ADU in the native driver…this causes the figures to change to higher numbers….