WanderingEye

Well, if its broken in warranty, whether at beginning or end of warranty, they either repair, replace or refund, I personally never accept repairs on anything within a year of purchase, I will always want a replacement, or refund...that is your right...it should, in my opinion, last at the very very least the year before it needs repair...

I bought one new from a dealer, and the other secondhand, but both seemed to get the same issue within six months, can’t do a lot about the secondhand one, but sent the new one back and got refund...and went in another direction.... I have got other bits of there kit, and a few years ago when they first started they were very very good, always answered emails and even helped me with a few mods I wanted to make, I used to contact them direct...but since they have grown and got more commercial, the excellent customer service seems to have taken a back seat a little bit, I’m sorry to say....but that’s just my view...hope you get it sorted... 😀

I have had two, and issues with both, contacted pegasus, and never even got a reply...sent back in the end and had money back... ☹️

Does it have red light too..?

I bought this one recently, £12.99, two brightnesses, and a red slide filter that slides across, so easy to do in the dark, rather than trying to press a button through a series of different settings... https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004OVIP6M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the new ASIair pro, with built in power supply and 12v outputs..looks very nice... 😀 Based on the new improved and much more powerful raspberry PI4 https://www.telescopi-artesky.it/it/asi-zwo/computer-/4646-asi-air-pro-smart-device-zwo.html

Correct... 👍

It should t hurt, but it’s unnecessary.. 😀

Hello, you only need the CLS version and NOT the CCD, canon cameras have two filters in them, the reason for leaving the second one in place, is because it does have very good IR cut already, as you say needed for imaging, and acts as a dust protector, so you don’t need another, the only difference between the CLS and CLS CCD is the later has IR cut too.... The filter you removed did have IR cut, but it also cut much of the Ha signal and so that’s why it’s removed....HTH 😀👍

Yes me too, very neat design, I would be interested in more info on the curved roof.... 😀😀👍

In that case then someone need to inform FLO, as they do one cable for both mounts... https://www.firstlightoptics.com/astronomy-cables-leads-accessories/lynx-astro-silicone-power-cable-for-sky-watcher-az-eq5-az-eq6-eq6-r-eq8-r-mounts.html

I think with this, one image is of the plug and the other of the socket, hence the difference, they have to be the same as many dealers sell power cables that fit both of these mounts, (same cable) and they would not be able to do this if there was no accepted convention.... 😀

Well, that’s a bit of a backwards step, isn’t it...strange on such a superb and well made mount... 🤔🤔

Yes just found it, but I have to say for such an iconic and expensive mount, the lack of decent declination adjustment on that wedge for the use with his or her own pier, is pretty poor...how is PA adjusted on the actual bent elbow mount...I realise they are made for you own home position, but there would still need to be fine tuning...

So can these new Mesu mounts be used on a “normal” steel pier, or do you Have to have the angled Mesu one, is there a way or an add on piece that would allow this adjustment..? I know it maybe a stupid question, sorry if it is

There is one now here, for £3.5k https://www.astrobuysell.com/uk/propview.php?view=155241

It’s amazing, these are known as one of, if not the best mounts around, and yet there looks nothing to it...the motors look so small too, it just shows that something so well designed that performs superbly, can look so basic...I guess a lot of the mechanics have gone as there is no DEC adjustment in the head, it’s all on the pier now...that alone makes it looks much more compact... how is it adjusted on the pier...??

That’s the PI 4, so it will need some sort of cooling I assure you, as even at idle with no load, it’s gets to hot... 👍

Yes it does sound like your issue was more than just a poor clutch...but this clutch issue is in the present EQ8 mounts, but not the newer EQ8-R pro, as they have the new upgraded clutches, which AFAIK stop this issue...also it’s much worse on the DEC side rather than the R.A.. 😀

You are correct my terminology was wrong, but the science is correct....it’s worm and wheel and worm and spur gear... 👍

Yes, I meant the worm and wheel..... sorry... 😀

I have been doing a load of testing on mine over the last few days, and have some interesting findings... They have improved the clutches on the new EQ8, which was a large cause of backlash in the older ones, mine included, when the clutch is engaged it causes there to be no backlash in the opposite direction to the clutch, in fact it’s quite right there, while there is a bit of backlash in the other 3/4 of the drive, if you then loosen the clutch, the tightness goes...the clutch was a bad design, and pushes the DEC shaft in a lateral way, only a small amount but enough to make people believe that there spur gear was not perfectly round...this is false assumption, at least on mine... try it and see, run your drive all the way round on full speed, while connected to a power supply that shows the AMPS being drawn, when it gets the the part opposite the clutch, you will see the draw go up as it tightens, stop there and release the clutch, and move round 180 degrees, then run again and you will see the tight spot has moved with the clutch position.... I have tested this extensively over the last few days, and i have removed all the backlash, well as much as I can feel, and I can run all round 360 degrees with perfect results no backlash, and drawing the normal 1.4 amps all the way around, but as soon as I apply the clutch it binds in a certain position, and the amps draw goes up to 1.9-2.0, and an audible Wine can be heard as it starts to bind, again release the clutch, and perfect all the way round...

But it still needs to match the power input cable... 👍

Does this help..

I am not 100% sure, but I think it was pin 2 +, but as long as it matched the power cable you use, it does not really matter...you can put red to pin 1 or 2 as long as the input cable matches...