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DaveL59

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Everything posted by DaveL59

  1. Could be useful if they did. Thinking for my daughter it might be handy when I pass a scope on to her for the little ones, tho SE London I'm not so sure it'll be able to platesolve much with all the light pollution.
  2. I wonder how these folks are managing to do this... https://www.all-startelescope.com/sales/product_info.php?cPath=21&currency=USD&products_id=2076 Perhaps they've bulk purchased the LT70 and stripped off the bracket and resell it with code and adaptors. edit - yep seems that's exactly what they are offering, a removed bracket and codes. No adaptors.
  3. kinda why I went with a non-working metal cased PTZ dome camera and mod'd it to be used inverted. Mind it's bolted to the side of the shed rather than on a pole so also easier but then I'm not trying to add cooling blocks and other electronics but it is fairly spacious inside once the PTZ bits are removed.
  4. similar but not quite. Shame they don't give the leg diameter for those clamps. The tripod I have is the thinner 1.5 inch version and I've not found replacements that fit so far. The metal ones look good but again not the same fit tho might work. For now the cable ties are working fine tho, the single ties are to hopefully prevent the 2 failing like the one with 3 ties on it.
  5. Been thinking about doing similar as I'm getting short of room with them laid on their side
  6. perhaps this seller can make one to your spec? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRASS-WORM-AND-ALUMINIUM-WORMWHEEL-50-TO-1-RATIO-1-PAIR-PER-PACK/162175321334?hash=item25c26704f6:g:qikAAOSwU-pXuH7j
  7. have been looking for the same solution, Pixies as I've acquired a couple and run short on bolt cases. I've also a 0.965 inch one that could do with a case/cover and that's harder still as bolt cases tend to be on the big side for that. For the 1.25 ones I've cut a bit of foam to pack the length of the case too so the EP isn't rattling about as I didn't have any narrow short bolt cases.
  8. could work. I was thinking along the lines of... but I've not done the math but in theory with the right length levers the rotation may be good to push the dome beyond the vertical and continuing rotation would then being it back down to the parked open. Would need to also be able to work in reverse of course. The geared wheel arrangement you've drawn would work too of course and with a worm gear it'd stay locked in position well so may be simpler to build.
  9. all I was more referring to the 2-lever arrangement to move it but it would need an attachment point somewhere on the dome or the extended bracket to act against. I was thinking along the lines of a longer arm attaching to the side of the cover than at the hinge.
  10. Hi Ajinkya and welcome One of these would likely suffice for the scope you have and not be unduly expensive. You could retain it for use with another scope if you decide to upgrade later on. As already mentioned, upgrading the eyepieces later on would also be worthwhile and be a significant improvement to the supplied ones. Again these can be retained to use on another scope if you decide to upgrade later. When/if you decide to upgrade the eyepieces or scope please do come back and ask as you'll get good advice. Don't go buying the celestron eyepiece & filter kit for example as you'll be spending on some things that are included that you may never use with this scope.
  11. cranking that could be fun but a good solution to the water cup issue
  12. yep, was thinking that when you first suggested doing this. A simple 2-lever affair may do the job and if you get the lengths correct you should be able to achieve an open/close rig, though you may need to gear the 2 levers where they operate against each other so they don't invert, as it were and then the dome doesn't move at all. Tho a stop at the dome joint would prevent that perhaps which may be simpler. Don't forget to factor for the gearing etc too, more complications. Something like this but with more smarts to handle how far you rotate each way, microswitch limiters in the internal gearing may suffice as used with sunroof motors in cars perhaps.
  13. if it were me I'd prefer to get it stripped and cleaned. Even tho it may not affect the image it'd bother me and any moisture getting between the elements would collect where the remnants are. Not sure if that'd increase the potential for further effects such as coating damage or regrowth coalescing there but I'd not want to chance it. Problem seems to be finding an optical specialist who would carry out the work for you. While I've worked on a few of my binos and scopes I'm not so sure I'd chance attempting it either, I've not had to do anything with my TAL100RS main objectives and would likely seek a specialist if they needed this level of fettling. Do be aware tho that some coating damage may have already taken place so even once cleaned there will be signs of where the growth areas were but they shouldn't affect the view. I would give the lens a Sol treatment over several days just to be sure and store with lots of desiccant when put away.
  14. perhaps also consider the effect of wind as it'll act as a sail and could lead to other damage or vibration. In terms of operating, an external cam-lever could crank the cover while the motor remains inside the body, with o-ring seals to prevent water ingress to the housing? Much as windscreen wipers operate, tho you'd need to maintain the pivot points to keep them cleaned and greased. Getting the dome to flip far enough for it and the crank/lever to be below the camera horizon and still be able to return back to park could be a challenge tho. Thinking about it, if you flip that cover so it's an inverted dome, any rain would collect in the bowl which would add to the problems, as well as dousing the main casing when trying to close. Would test the water sealing for sure. I wonder if a split clam-shell type would work, overlap where they meet for UV protection. Wind would still be an issue tho but perhaps less in terms of being a water catcher.
  15. at the moment, no, sold as a complete kit only and you can't buy the activation code alone either. Things may change tho if Celestron see a demand and decide to offer a standalone option but no reported plans so far.
  16. fyi John, tried a small prism from a miniature bino against the camera on my note-10, hand held and no shielding so not an ideal test. Plus the prism is spalled on the long edge. To give an idea of size: and a pic with it holding it to the camera lens, camera set to x1.0 to not use the wide-angle lens: Will try a regular size from a 8x30 or 10x50 when I have one apart and show the result in the other thread. May give a better (wider) image without the vignetting but in principle it may work. Wonder if a BK7 may be better for this than a BaK4 in but I expect a lot of my junk ones are BK7 so won't be able to compare the types.
  17. Thing is, new it's worth that from a supplier. Used, it's worth what someone will pay. Same with cars etc. You lose on the warranty which you can't really price until you need something and that could be a lot more than the difference. How likely that is you'll never know until... But the important thing here is it's your call, if it fits the bill and you're happy to accept the risk etc and you can have it in your hands quite quickly.
  18. there's a mirror under the camera so the phone "sees" the sky It was tried to just aim the camera at the sky and didn't work - on the CN thread IIRC.
  19. maybe worth asking if they'd go £250
  20. 10 year? FLO's page says 2 years. But I agree, for £40 difference I'd go new and be sure to have all the parts and support from a good supplier. edit - just saw your post Neil, depends how quick you need to have it I guess, how new is it and can warranty be transferred to you?
  21. looks similar to the phone connector Samsung use too on the USB3 models
  22. I expect you'll find that those USB-RJ45 are not LAN converters but simply allow you to use a length of network cable to extend between USB connected devices. Even if they were LAN converters they'd not work as the powerline adaptors won't have drivers and neither would the USB hub so they'd not operate and form a link. You also wouldn't be able to connect a 70m LAN cable between them as the signal wouldn't be strong enough to make a reliable link and speed would drop significantly even if it did manage to connect. Simplest way would be a LAN cable out to the rig and appropriate gear at the remote end to serve the scope etc as others have mentioned. Network-USB hubs are available but not cheap and I've yet to see a USB3 one in the flesh but Digi and others do solid USB2 versions. I've a couple from Maplin some years back, more consumer than business version, that are fine for serving things like a scanner or webcam across the network. Was thinking I'd use one remotely for the sky camera if I switch to a USB camera later on.
  23. Personally I've never bought the Baader fluid, I use a regular lens cleaning fluid for glasses and it works just fine. Have gone through it quite quickly tho so will need to order some in a few months. Then again I used it on my glasses and have overhauled a fair few pairs of binoculars over the past couple years. I tend to use Zeiss wipes now for my glasses (easier to carry a few in the work bag) or other optics that aren't too in need of a deeper treatment.
  24. no idea re dry-ness of either, but there would be a much smaller quantity of ambient air if you can purge the ASC body was my thinking. As an alternative, how about... https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vacu-Vin-Wine-Saver-Concerto/dp/B00005U2FA/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=vacuum+pump&qid=1599749527&sr=8-7 So long as you can make the unit airtight then this may get you a vacuum that you can easily top up and help keep moisture low. Downside tho, any slight leak in the casing would potentially suck water in if its raining. I'd prefer the purge approach tho, at least there's little/no residual pressure or if anything a slightly higher pressure than the outside of the casing.
  25. hmm Helium cannisters aren't cheap tho would be able to do a lot of refills. If you don't mind CO2 then air pistol cannisters are a lot cheaper. You'd have to figure a way to safely purge the ASC and then seal, bike schrader valves perhaps or a suitable stop valve that you can turn on/off as required. Also the pressure from a canister may (will) be a bit much so you'd need to regulate that too. Either way you'd purge the moist air out and it'd be replaced with whichever gas and then it'll just be ingress of outside air with moisture, which silica gel should handle till you re-purge. If you can get an inflated helium balloon of course then it'd be low pressure and you can just squeeze to flush via tube/valves and if you're sniffing the exhaust you'll know it's done when your voice goes all squeaky
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