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Everything posted by DaveL59

  1. shame you can't draw a vacuum to help reduce/eliminate moisture in the air, but then you'd need a strong pump to boil moisture off and risk the casing collapsing. Might be worth trying with a large syringe to at least get a low vacuum tho...? Or perhaps go get a helium filled balloon and use the gas in it to purge the air
  2. ooh let us know how you get on with the starsense hack Been considering ordering one too but kinda have to watch the funds for the moment.
  3. would that risk focus shift tho depending on how you drive the cam? Might be ok if using a worm drive to adjust the cam rotation. Rigidity of the cam may be an issue too under hot conditions? or become brittle under extreme cold? Figured best to ask as I don't know how the 3d printed material stand up to heat/cold in a stressed component so I'll bow to your knowledge on that front
  4. Mars has risen above the roofs here but too late to be getting the scope out to play. Plus the neighbours might think I'm aiming at their bedroom windows lol
  5. likely woke them up with that huge rocket launcher he was aiming in their direction
  6. was a dark cloud blanket here earlier and light rain. Then it's cleared but some light hazy stuff floating by. Sadly I won't be out late as I'm meeting my former boss tomorrow. Always the way huh, clear skies and no chance to play lol. Still there'll be other nights, after all am between jobs again so can play when I want after tomorrow
  7. wow, so much more complex than my thrown together mod'd cctv rig But then I'm not super-cooling mine so a lot less to worry about.
  8. Not having one but some here do so hopefully will chip in... Are you able to get good focus with the camera in your scope (which scope is it?) or is it just running out of travel before you get a sharp image? Worth trying it on a distant land target in daytime and see if you can get any result, though the focuser would be further out given a target that is closer than anything in the sky at night. Aim would be to get familiar before trying again in darkness, though you could try for the moon in the morning as it was high in the SW around 8 this morning from here in Kent.
  9. a couple of my eyeball type CCTV cameras are done that way for zoom and focus, very handy for making the odd tweak with just a small screwdriver. No issues with moisture so could be the simplest solution.
  10. that'll be a lead battery unit, likely only 7Ah or maybe 12Ah so you would need to be sure and charge it after a session and then maintenance charge it every month or so to prevent a dead battery. Upside the battery can be replaced reasonably cheap, downside weight and you really only get 50-60% of the rated Ah capacity, less if its cold before the terminal voltage would drop far enough for the mount to struggle. Other than that, yeah it probably would work ok
  11. the circuit and motors will draw what they require, so long as the power source and cables are able to deliver it. The voltage applied tho, if it exceeds the max could cause issues hence I suggest to test the voltage before hooking up and why I've put a buck converter in to limit it to 12v after finding the pack I have can deliver a bit over 15v. Best not to try stepping up from 5v to 12v tho as that may not keep up with load demand during a slew and you'd get errors. You'd need some significant capacitors on the 12v side of that sort of setup to soak up peak demands especially on a long skew which would be drawing peak current.
  12. ahh my bad, didn't check the list price for that one. Seems many are being up-priced in these times, quite a few TAL newts at high pricing too. Sign of the times and reflecting shortages maybe?
  13. I noticed this one on the bay today https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bresser-messier-telescope-AR127L-1200mm/333714596134?hash=item4db2f0a126:g:bW8AAOSwMYRfV3O3 Not sure how it'd balance compared to the F15 John pictured but in case it's of interest...
  14. Hope a wee birdie doesn't think "oh a nice perch to rest on" and shift the focus
  15. that's the one For info that maker for the finished binocular is: JB 24 Ichikawa Kogaku Kogyo Co. Ltd.,Tokyo
  16. if the only output on your powerbank is USB then it'll only deliver 5v. Some also have a second output for laptops which may be 19v or if lucky 12v but do check the actual voltage with a meter before hooking to your SynScan. I use a Car jump-starter LiPo 20Ah pack and that gives 15+v on the car outlet, so I use a buck converter to provide a 12v regulated output into the SynScan and it works nicely. Does mean a bit of DIY sorting suitable connectors and cables but its compact and lightweight where lead batteries are heavy and need to be maintenance charged to prevent early demise of the battery.
  17. those look in very nice condition considering their age, as if they lived life in their case rather than being used. Looks to be a Japan made pair too, be interesting to know the JB/JE marking on the objective end. I've a few old pairs and they do perform nicely tho I more tend to use the Minolta 10x50's at night as they're waterproof and lighter with a 6.6 FoV. As you say tho, a bargain price for the condition, nice find!
  18. Exposing to UV won't remove anything but will kill the fungus so it won't spread. Sunlight will do the trick if you don't have a UV light but usual precautions re direct sunlight and potential for heat damage/fire apply. If you want to treat it then Hydrogen Peroxide and Ammonia 50/50 mix should work if its accessible of course. Between the elements will mean risking that you can split and reassemble accurately and as Adam mentions it may not be trivial to achieve a good result. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3864060/ Storage use a desiccant to keep the humidity under control and if possible a suitable fungicidal pellet/sachet if you can source them. A focuser cap that can hold a desiccant might be a good idea so the OTA internals are kept well controlled. Looking at the pic, has he already removed the lens rings as there looks to be a couple on the desk in the reflection off the lens? Hopefully that hasn't disturbed the alignment of the elements. edit: Note that once cleaned you may find that the coatings have been eroded by the fungus where it is present, shouldn't affect the image but could bother you in terms of it being visible under inspection and also affect resale later on. Might be better to return it to the seller and look for a better one that doesn't have this issue.
  19. another option perhaps would be to raise the mirror using longer screws & springs if there's not enough travel left on the OEM ones. That'd move the focal point further up the focuser tube to allow you to reach focus. You would need to redo collimation but it's a relatively simple mod to do. Your eyepieces sans barlow would find focus a little further out from where they currently do, as in the amount you shifted the mirror. Trick would be to determine how much to adjust for to reach the barlow focal point. How much extra length does the helical add to the focuser compared to the SW OEM holder ring?
  20. doh, should've twigged from your previous post, my bad. Love how it sits so far up in the mount too, must make using it much easier
  21. yep, a "proper" scope Looks lovely John, which one is that?
  22. yeah am thinking I may get an extension tube for my EQ5, well one of them at least to make the frac's more stable
  23. be warned tho, F15 will be a very long scope
  24. don't think they're listed, hence have a chat. They mentioned to me if I was interested a week or so back when I had some bits on order. So tempting but I've too many that aren't looking at anything most nights to add another lol oh, there's aslo a 120XLT down my way on the bay tho the finder bracket is broken.
  25. if you have a chat with Astroboot, they had some F15 frac's recently around £300 as I recall
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