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Everything posted by DaveL59

  1. there's been a couple nice TAL100's on the bay recently and in your range when they sold. Solid and to me nice to use, but... they are quite long at 1M for the OTA
  2. I guess the simple way perhaps is to draw a line through the old info and get the buyer to mark their info in a different area. Same if you move house and need to re-mark. You'd need a UV light tho to be accurate. Acetone may erode the permanent marker but I've never tested that idea.
  3. I've not selected as they've been cleaned within the past year having either been recently acquired or overhauled. I'd say that I would do them as needed with no fixed schedule but no option for that So far I've not had dew issues but stored in the conservatory they see very little temp change when moved outside or back inside. I usually leave the conservatory door open when out back with the scope which stabilises the temps tho I do that more for convenience really.
  4. So tonight had a nice view of Jupiter+4 moons and Saturn as it popped out from behind branches, using the old 3-inch vintage scope and trying out a few eyepiece. H20, H12, HM6 and OR4, all gave nice views, think I could just about make out the division in the rings as well as some belt detail on Jupiter. Decided to then switch to 1.25-inch since I now have a 1.25 to 0.965 adaptor, Fullerscope 12mm and a circle-T OR9 on the same scope. Again nice views, a bit clearer than the 0.965 EPs but all worked well. Popped the TAL 2x Lanthanum barlow into the mix and still good views with the 12 and 9mm's. Must say focus with a drawtube is real fiddly and the rig certainly had the wobbles while doing adjustments, tho probably not much worse than a modern manual focuser in terms of inducing wobble. EQ5 on the ally tripod with legs extended so I could see over the fence likely didn't help. Might have to consider getting a pier extension for the mount if that'd make things more stable. I did note that freeing the drawtube lock screw and moving the tube can cause a shift of view until tightened back up so I guess there's some play but then this is quite an old scope now All in all pretty pleased, the old scope can still show very nicely and with the range of 0.965 inch eyepieces works really well. Not sure how much difference it'll have made but while I had the diagonal and eyepieces stripped down for cleaning I also blacked the ground edges on the glass, prism included. Simple black sharpie marker was used for that which usefully adds no thickness compared to painting as some of those tiny eyepiece lenses are a very snug fit not to mention real fiddly to refit.
  5. gotta love that title, made me wonder what the content was gonna be My tripod seems to be an older model with the spreader using plastic clamps on the legs, not managed to get a replacement for the one that cracked but cable ties have so far worked tho I might look at getting a set of these to replace them. The Meade tray with in-built handset holder fits it nicely tho so a good purchase from Astroboot.
  6. best to blow away any dust and then use a clean microfibre cloth or lens tissue moistened with lens cleaner to gently wipe it away. Don't overdo the lens cleaner or apply direct to the lens else it may find its way behind the front element and then things get a lot more involved to sort it.
  7. you don't say which bridge camera and with most the options will be to take pictures at the eyepiece with the challenge of holding/mounting the camera to get an image, or to mount the camera on the scope piggy-backed and use it to take images via its own lens. That'll mean rebalancing the scope and finding a way to get focus set to infinity and it being able to run long exposure on a remote trigger. If your bridge has a lens that extends automatically on power-up you need to be careful it doesn't hit anything if trying at the eyepiece on a mounting rig. My Fuji S100FS is too bulky to try at the eyepiece, but I have mounted it on a scope ring and used it that way. Downside is max 30s exposure and I've only played with it a little in that mode. Using a remote timer it is able to take several exposures of 30s without needing to touch the camera but so far not been easy to get any great results. Mobile phone at the eyepiece was a lot easier.
  8. so far, having bought used I've cleaned all of mine soon after purchase or when I've overhauled/refurbished the scope. You could argue that all were performing fine before so could have been left, but if I'm taking it apart it makes sense to do the cleaning at assembly time. Other than that I'd go with as and when needed.
  9. Funny because I have mine set up exactly the same, so the SloMo cable is near the focuser. Far more convenient in use so you can make fine adjustments and see the effect in the eyepiece. For a Frac I do the same so the SloMo is near the focuser, doesn't affect the mount operation at all so is a personal preference.
  10. this, perhaps? tho it's already been disclosed in news of course https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-53993937
  11. sounds good Gina and the O-ring will mean future maintenance will be easier too
  12. DaveL59


    Worth checking to see if they have alternate shipping locations that are EU, which would be less likely to incur additional costs. I've not ordered astro but have bought CCTV cameras and had no import issues but I did pick shipping from EU rather than China. That said, warranty could be another issue if you need to ship it back to base and how long would they be able to support it?
  13. Hi Mike and welcome. I have that exact same telescope and as others have mentioned, you need to set the RA axis at a tilt to match your latitude. Set as shown in your photo you'll find the counterweight & bar will hit the tripod and limit range of movement. If instead you'd rather use it as alt-az rather than EQ then you'd need to set it to 90 degrees such that the counterweight bar is horizontal. You may still find that the scope itself then starts to become limited by the tripod legs. Does yours come with the RA clockwork drive too? I've found that this works ok but it can occasionally get in the way of the tube at certain angles when aiming very high, the cable connector sticks out and the tube catches. Not a major problem and using it makes for more relaxed viewing having the mount track objects, especially if sharing the view with others. Good luck and enjoy!
  14. ah the "fun" never stops hey Gina I'm surprised focus has shifted that much though, but then you heavily cool yours where mine just have to cope with the norms of exterior temps plus however hot it gets inside the casing. So far neither have shown much focus drift but then again if I needed to tweak them the domes can be removed fairly easily. Perhaps they're holding a little better being bare board with the lens in a holder directly mounted to the board compared to your ASC unit? I've yet to have issues with droppings on the dome but then I'm not located next to a pond, there's really only a large oak nearby where the birdies gather
  15. Anyone else notice the "they optically tested it before shipping"? - so the retailer could well have introduced the dust and doesn't want to take responsibility and is fobbing it off as they all come like that. I'd be even more inclined to return it to them given this, they tested so should have noticed the dust but shipped it like that anyway, not very honourable. Even my 2003 TAL100RS has no dust on the lens internals after buying it used and driving 120 miles home with it so I'd be very disappointed if a brand new scope arrived in that condition.
  16. Personally I'd expect on a brand new scope that the manufacturing process should result in almost no dust between the elements, and once assembled the cell wouldn't allow much ingress of dust in a relatively clean room assembly line. If this is common then that's disappointing to say the least. Hopefully the manufacturer would be prepared to resolve for you.
  17. hi Gina, you may find that if the sealant shrank a little capillary action would draw water in even through any hairline cracks without the wind driving it. I think that's partly what happened with the smaller of my two when it got water, tho the dome/metal ring arrangement won't have helped on that one either. The other with a neoprene washer under it so far seems untroubled. I guess thermal creep may be what's affected the focus? I've had to tweak a couple of the regular CCTV cameras over the 4 years here, very slight but a nuisance as you only see they've drifted at night when they switch to IR night vision so then end up fiddling in the about with them dark. Day/colour seems fine with focus a touch out as there seems to be just a slight difference between Day/IR-night, perhaps the effect of switching from IRCut to clear filters, tho a couple of them are colour only (no cut filter) and see the same effect under IR lighting..
  18. I'd agree with John, I recently did the same on an 80mm TAL-M, even less working room than a 130 and the acetate sheet method worked very nicely.
  19. With both parts removed and the DEC clutch locked are you able to move the scope on the DEC axis by hand? It should move around 10 degrees or thereabouts I think and with everything removed should do that quite freely. You should see that lever also moving in sync with the scope. Be careful not to get your fingers in the DEC control tho while doing this so you don't get injured. If that doesn't work then it is somehow jammed and may need more dismantling. On assembly you'd need to have the bolt end slackened off so that you can refit the cable control side fully, then gradually tighten the bolt end to get things snug, just enough for the control to still turn smoothly. I wonder if somewhere in its previous life it's taken a big knock that caused the pin to bend and then the bolt was tightened further inward to make up the slack. Or perhaps the bolt end was tightened hard while the DEC axle was at the extreme end as in your pic. As for the eyepieces, yes 17mm is maybe a bit much, a 25mm would be better or perhaps a 32mm for a wider FoV. Can't answer on your RDF, the ones I have are SW or non-celestron and work fine, but there are better, Telrad for example, or perhaps fit an optical finderscope of decent quality which you can always move to another scope when you upgrade.
  20. if the bracket can be made easily remountable (captive bolts or similar) then it'd maybe make a handy grab n go and could be popped onto whichever scope you fancied using that night, maybe. I was almost thinking something like a manfroto PL200 type QR system to allow it to be quickly swapped over if a regular finder shoe arrangement can't be used.
  21. had the same thought, tho that 114 is a bird jones so maybe best avoided unless you just want the bracket and code and bin the rest. the 70/80 frac might be worth it tho
  22. seems without the unlock code you can't use the camera from that thread, makes sense from the manufacturer's PoV in that you can take a look at the app and may lead to a sale. Who knows they may even end up marketing a generic cradle only with a code for those of us that might be interested in adding it to our existing scopes. At the right price point it could be a good seller.
  23. makes me wonder if a prism out of an old spare parts bino might work also, suitably light shielded. May have a play with that at some stage.
  24. take your time separating the lenses and try not to burn your fingers doing it!
  25. Something work related, starts with a "P" but not saying what on a public readable section of the forum
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