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Everything posted by discardedastro

  1. Ah, that's my lazy dumping of the Telegizmos cover it usually hides under
  2. I'll be honest - I forgot to do it till the end! I normally do it immediately post-DBE on my RGB master prior to delinearisation for LRGBCombination. Having said that, it worked just fine on non-linear data. Looking with slightly less inebriated eyes, you're right on the green cast - and an SCNR has indeed tidied that up.
  3. My "best frame" from this attached, in FITS and JPEG. Quite happy with how the Paracorr is performing, though still need to fix a tiny bit of tilt (adapter on the way!) M_81_Light_Lum_120_secs_2020-12-24T23-05-11_034_c_cc_a.fit
  4. OK, so, this was entirely processed under the influence of Wild Turkey (only fitting given the season) Old Fashioned, so may be of variable quality! I think I did everything right in PI, but who knows. Most of the capture time was also spent somewhat inebriated. Christmas on your own is super fun! Taken from two nights of data this month, for a total 65x120s L and about 50x120s RGB. All taken on my usual rig; 200PDS on EQ6-R Pro, Baader Steeltrak w/ Sesto Senso for focusing, TeleVue Paracorr, ZWO OAG, ZWO Mini EFW w/ Baader LRGB filters, ASI174MM guide cam, ASI183MM-PRO imaging cam.
  5. True that reflector with dew shield will likely reject more stray light - I have a lot of internal flocking and baffling and a rear shield to keep it all relatively light-tight, but the focuser isn't immune to visibile light. However, with an appropriate IR-cut filter I would be surprised if there was any effect. I would wager that the IR LEDs in most cameras are quite "broadband", though, so it may not be completely cut by the filter. Neutral density filters generally will work just as well for IR/NIR as they do for visible, and you can get it cheap as chips in sheets from Amazon et al
  6. Use an IR cut filter on your imaging train and you won't have any issues, or at least I haven't noticed any. However, using a separate illuminator and switching off the IR LEDs within the camera(s) will give you more control and makes it less likely spiders will take up residence on that nice warm lens PoE is definitely the way to go but take much care about sealing the incoming Ethernet connector. Splice tape/self-amalgamating tightly applied can work well. Water in there is going to make for instant corrosion at 48V. Avoid WiFi. Avoid battery cameras. Reolink, Dahua are both
  7. To be blunt, speaking as someone with a good view of logistics in another industry that imports considerable stock from the far east and Europe, don't bet on anything showing up till July at the earliest. Normal service might start to resume sometime towards the end of 2021. We're working on the basis that Brexit will break most ports for at least 3-6mo while everyone figures out how to do the paperwork and the UK side builds all the infrastructure we're missing (the EU side has, broadly, got it all in place by now). Anything we needed to get in for our business, we got in months ago (and
  8. Draw-tube sag is possible but with a good focuser shoudn't be an issue. I'd try and measure things in terms of the output - either using CCDinspector or the FHWM plotter script in PixInsight - to see if you've got any significant tilt in the images you're getting out. Try a few different frames from different pointing positions to see if there's any significant variation with regards to attitude.
  9. I don't get much in the way of vignetting but the small sensor in the ASI183MM-PRO is pretty tiny, so makes all that much easier. I calibrate with a sketch panel for flats. Main issue I have at the moment is vignetting from the pick-off prism - I need to tear the optical train apart again and add a spacer to get the rotational offset spot on so the prism lands on the wide edge of the sensor. From memory, you may want to increase to an oversized secondary for the 1600MM-Pro - the 200PDS if I recall correctly has a larger secondary than the 200P but some early versions had the same secondary.
  10. What I would like - given I have a light cover on the back of the primary that provides a pretty good seal - would be to mount a big pile of silica gel in the tube when stored so it's at least starting out dry. Storing outside, it doesn't get a good continuous dry period very often, and with foggy nights the air trapped in the tube after sessions is laden with moisture...
  11. Definitely not the best seeing, and just one night of data, but at least a nice dark night. 200PDS, Baader Steeltrak + Sesto Senso, ASI183MM-PRO for imaging and ASI174MM guide camera with the ZWO OAG for guiding. Paracorr corrector. ZWO Mini EFW filter with Baader LRGB set. 40xL, 40xR, 36xG, 30xB. Stacked all for a superluminance, deconvolved, usual histogram/saturation stuff, photometric calibration, LRGB combined, etc.
  12. If you don't use a dew shield I'd start there - they're cheap and will also help reject stray light, so can't hurt! Reaching for heaters is the last resort imo. Secondary dewing is definitely possible, coma corrector is where I mostly pick up dew so a heater around the optical train can help...
  13. Was going to suggest a cobra/fish tape - definitely the easy way to go, our installers use these and 20mm ribbed duct for fibre cables. Easiest way to pull stuff through awkward routes or high-friction ducts. I'll also throw in lubricant - something like Ideal 77 aka yellow gunk is fine and cheap as chips. You do need to be working in tension (i.e. pulling) but if you're a bit marginal on bends etc it can help considerably.
  14. Having read through, I'm quite heartened by the proposals. But now they need to be spurred into action. This is the "write to your MP" stage of things - build awareness with your local MP and make sure that they support the govt actually taking action on the policy proposals outlined.
  15. Sort of what I've done so far - the rig lives under a Telegizmos 365 cover and I can move it all around if I need to. But it can't wake up for those clear skies at 1am and put itself away again at 5am, and neither can I!
  16. Oh, man, it's got to be the observatory to start with for my imaging. Everything else comes after. Fully-automated dome or roll-off obsy I want to "perfect" my Newtonian imaging setup - probably a carbon tube 300mm w/ some very good optics Something long-focal-length for planetary work would be lovely, thinking 400mm+ Dob or similar, plus a planetary camera/filter set Big 2"+ filter wheel and a matching set of Chroma/Astrodon 3nm filters for narrowband Just a nice simple visual observing setup but done well - something like a Rowan AZ mount and a 100mm Takahashi,
  17. Is this for imaging use or for visual use (i.e. motorfocus, so you can focus without so much vibration passed to the scope)? If the former, then the DC motor focusers like the low-cost Skywatcher one aren't a lot of use if you intend to use it with software that will perform auto-focusing because they have a lot of backlash in and are not repeatable. Autofocus algorithms all depend on being able to repeatably go back and forth to find the best focus point. For this, you practically need at minimum a stepper motor. Popular options would be things like the ZWO EAF, Primaluce Sesto Senso, an
  18. Street cabinets - which are normally ventilated with plenty of airflow, and cooled by fans in summer - quite often have a 10 or even 50W heater in the bottom of battery areas (we normally have circa 150-390Ah in 4-8 12V batteries, so quite a large area) to keep things warm enough. You don't need much because you can basically dump the heat very directly into the battery and they tend to have good specific heat capacity and retain well. Spare dew heater strap on low would probably be more than enough - best to try it out with a temperature logger and see what it does first though, you may find
  19. Do give it a little bit of ventilation - you don't want hydrogen build-up in your battery box! For really cold weather resistance, a little low-power heater in a reasonably shielded box will go a long way and won't pull much power.
  20. With my telecoms hat on, we use this stuff to seal up any ducts entering structures: https://www.comtecdirect.co.uk/product/filoseal-duct-sealing-kits/PG5771 - street cabinets, underground chambers, and the like. It's re-enterable - you can cut it out with a knife pretty readily - but it's water and gas tight and will keep your duct ends sealed shut. So long as your elbows etc aren't leaking and the water level in the ground isn't too high then you'll never get standing water. Those seals will also work with flexible conduit to a degree though the seal will be less reliable if there's an
  21. If there's anything I've learned in my short time doing AP (a few years so far) it's that you'll never stop learning - but that won't stop you doing great things from the outset! I'd definitely recommend skimming through this thread for some good "lessons learned" on care and feeding of your shiny new mount...
  22. Good to see some progress - I'm particularly heartened to see the ILP involved, since their guidance is what the bulk of local councils rely on for evaluation of lighting solutions.
  23. Bit of a mixed bag, this. This is a shot of M33 (Triangulum) with quite a lot of dew on the Paracorr outer lens during acquisition. My OTA lives outside and was pretty wet when I started imaging, and the dew heater didn't clear it all, exacerbated by poor seeing and clouds. I also had some interesting artefacting going on top left which seems to be related to my OAG prism. Still working that one out - need to push it a little further out, I think, or get it perfectly flush on the "long" side of the sensor. Flat correction helps, but clearly struggled with the dew. 200PDS, A
  24. LP filters will help with indirect illumination, is my understanding. So sky glow and illumination of the atmosphere from the ground. Direct illumination, you're not going to fix that with filters. That's where you want to put barriers up to block local light. Obviously a dome will do best in this regard, but it's quite an undertaking - so panels etc will be order of the day! The IDAS D2 is a very solid LP filter and will help with the skies if you've got issues higher up.
  25. I believe so, yes - you will need the extension tube for sure but I've done a similar arrangement and it works using a Z6 and FTZ adapter which should be the same flange distance as Nikon F-mount DSLRs.
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