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About catburglar

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    Star Forming

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  1. I think the 224 may not a good match with the sct for EVA. Binned 2x2 you’re capturing at approx 1.3 arcsec per pixel and with 200mm aperture, you might not get sufficient signal in the short exposures usually employed in EEVA. With this camera, you probably want a 12 inch (2.25 x collecting area) at f/4 (for comparable image scale) If you could find one of the f3.3 reducers, then you’d be at around 2.3 arcsec per pixel, which could work OK. It’s not too far from the configuration that Martin uses successfully, but you’ve arrived at it by a different combination of factors.
  2. Binning doesn't change the field of view (that's determined solely by the chip size and focal length) but it does change the sampling rate of the image. For DSO's you want bigger pixels to capture as many photons as possible in a 10-30 second exposure and therefore improve the signal to noise ratio at the expense of image resolution For planets- it's the reverse, because they're much brighter, you'll want short frames at max resolution to capture the most detail possible. If you can live with the approx 0.5 degree FoV of the IMX183 chip using the C11 and 6.3 reducer, I think it
  3. I wonder if you could still get good results with the large SCT (C11) and 6.3 reducer and something like the ZWO ASI183- with 2.4 micron pixels. If you bin 4x4 gets you 1.1 arc seconds per pixel for DSI’s and then unbinned / ROI for planetary at about 0.3 arcsec per pixel... The FoV for DSO’s will be a little limited, so I think it depends how wide you want to go...if you’re after galaxies, globulars and planetary nebulae, this would be OK, but if you want M31 or Barnard’s loop, then you’ll need something with a shorter fl.
  4. Welcome. I don't know if this sight might be worth a look: https://www.slooh.com/about/about-slooh
  5. I think I saw a comparison between one of the canon L series lenses and a WO Redcat- the results were similar....I'd expect a similar situation here...with some important things to note....they are both 400mm FL and therefore will have the same image scale if used with the same sensor. As you note this means that the RASA will be faster. But, I would also expect the lens to be slightly less sharp if used at it's maximum aperture- this is typical of many camera lenses even good ones. So to get comparable sharpness, you'd probably need to stop the lens down, which would make the RASA spee
  6. I started with a 60mm Tesco refractor telescope on a wobbly altaz mount...apparently it was exactly the sort of telescope that you shouldn’t start with according to some.....but it showed me lots of detail on the moon, Saturn and it’s rings, double stars a plenty as well as the Hercules globular cluster, dumbbell nebula and ring nebula...your scope will be fine, and give you lots of things to look at. Like nialk above, I’d also recommend the book Turn Left at Orion- it’s got a nice selection of things you can see with easy to follow instructions showing how to find them as well as a gu
  7. I was surprised I didn’t have any significant interference for a couple of days to see this so suddenly....but as of about 11:30 it seems to have disappeared....not sure what it was, but will see if it reappears.
  8. I decided to have a try at meteor scatter detection- using a 3 element yagi based on the S@N design and using a nooelec SDR....following this guide: https://www.popastro.com/main_spa1/meteor/radio-meteor-observing-2020/ The antenna went into the loft on Sunday evening- bearing approx 160 degrees with approx 10 degreees of elevation. All seemed to be working OK- could pick up local FM radio stations so the connections and driver and SDRSharp software must be OK. SpectrumLab was installed and seemed to be getting a few real meteor detections, many short (< 1 second), but other longer and
  9. Both now "sale" pending- thank you. I've come across 2 sets of Carl Zeiss Jena Jenoptem binoculars- 8x30W and 10x50W. They're well used, but mechanically OK as far as I can tell. See the pictures for condition- the paintwork is tatty, the objectives have some fungus spots and the leather covering on the 10x50s is also very warn and separating from the body. They're available for the cost of postage to anybody who has the skills, time and inclination to renovate them. I've got packaging for the 8x30's so they could be posted immediately. I've not got a box suitable for the 10x50
  10. I think you need to come back to the ‘diminishing returns’ point made by Olly- if there’s only 60mins of data in that image, then adding another 60mins will likely make a noticeable difference. However, if you’ve already sunk 6 hours of data, then another hour or two won’t add much....How patient do you feel? Have you u got a wish list of autumn targets that you’d be missing out on if you go after this. But to counterpoint the above- most of the targets will still be there next year if you don’t get around to them this season.
  11. I think you’ve just pushed the processing a bit too far- there are dark haloes around many of the stars suggesting that the deconvolution is a bit too fierce or your star mask wasn’t quite generous enough...The image is also stretched quite hard so you get white cores and accentuate the haloes.... Startools has a nice ‘fringe killer’ filter that allows you to selectively reduce these blue haloes, but the best first step might be to go gently with the post processing...
  12. No....you suggested windsk32... I suggested win32dsk..... Yours would create a mirror of the SD card
  13. Don’t you just love detailed instructions like that... I suspect the troubleshooting guide is equally helpful....If the green light isn’t on, check that the power is plugged in....if the problem persists contact technical support.....
  14. I suspect the drive letter issue is because the ASI Linux OS is installed in a compressed or EXT4 (I think) partition which windows can’t read. use win32dsk imager (a free download) to backup the sdcard and all will be Ok. on the WiFi front....does the phone support 5GHz WiFi networks, most modern ones do, but older ones may not....I suspect you can switch the ASI air to use the 2.4GHz band for WiFi, but not sure on the details....
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