Nikolas74

Exactly was my problem because it's not very easy to find marks for North since all the buildings I see towards North don't make this easy. I download also to my phone a similar app that is like a compass etc and can take a picture with bearings... NORTH is what I care about, so I will try this out and make a mark, and then I will rotate my landscape accordingly to match it with the picture from the app. Thanks very much...

Since I live in a flat I do most of my imaging from my balcony... I purposely choose a top floor because of my astrophotography passion in order to have a decent field of view, but my balcony has walls on one side and on top. So I decided to bring to Stellarium my own landscape and my FOV so I can know exactly which targets are on sight and at what time. I have done some reading and watch videos but I still have a couple of questions before I begin and hopefully some people from here could help! a) how should I take my photo... Me standing straight levelled with horizon or placing my camera on a tripod and place it like a telescope looking up in the sky towards North? b) the famous cardinal points and the line angle_rotatez= in the ini file... Is there a secret of finding this number easy in order to match cardinal points to my photo or the only way is by trial and error....? Thanks for reading Nikolas.

I have this scope on my mind... I like the specs!!!

I was having the same question as well,i just bought the Asi2600 that has dew heater installed. I have never deal with dew heaters before and I was wondering if there is a chance that extensive use could damage the sensor glass or whatsoever. Also since I live in Athens Greece I was wondering if in the summer that the temperature is high if its necessary to use the dew heaters?

I am using the adapters from Zwo to have it at 55mm...they look pretty solid so I don't think it's my adapters.... The Redacat51 doesn't have a focuser so tilt by weight I don't think so... Must check again the focus... cause I am using a bahtinov mask and not an auto focuser.... Its not very easy to focus the Redcat51 by hand specially to make small corrections... I don't have unfortunately software to check the flatness of the field.. But the idea of push and pull these small screws in very small adjustments gives me nightmares.... Is there a guide somewhere?

Many thanks to all of you.. Got it.. I always use to have the camera sensor oriented "upright" as it is easier for me to understand the movement of the mount... When I press North the stars move up, when I press West the stars move left... So I guess I will continue do the same and unless the target doesn't fit maybe I will rotate the camera.. The only thing that I was thinking is that when the sensor is upright there is less of a sky in the image on the "left" and "right" sides. Anyway I am not going to make it more complicated.... 😁 Many thanks!

I see, thank you very much for your answer.

Just got my Zwo Asi2600Mc Pro and I am very much afraid that there is a sensor tilt because on one side the stars didn't look the same like in the middle or the other side.... I will ckeck it a bit more before I start messing around with the tilt screws... but I wanted to know if there are any instructions somewhere that I can see or read because the whole process scares me a lot...... Which screw for what side? By the way the camera is attached to a WO Redcat51. Anyone had same situation with his Zwo Asi2600Mc Pro?

I was always wondering what is the best way to orientate the camera for most uses.... Sensor to be orientated on its Height? or Width? Does it play any role on how much sky you can fit in the image?

Have you used any filters?

Sometimes I see the letters EC next to a model... What does it mean?

So I have ordered the Artesky one, it needs only 16.5mm, like one zwo adapter so I will not have any problem with spacing with my Zwo Asi2600Mc Pro... So difficult to find ZWO products... Now I only have to wait and see if it works well... I don't like so much that it's square shape, but.... 😀

Sorry from me also I understood the opposite 👍

I sold mine fast without thinking and now regreting it... I have found a couple of other choices like : ALTAIR https://www.altairastro.com/altair-2-inch-magnetic-filter-holder---t2---version-2-2379-p.asp and ARTESKY https://www.telescopi-artesky.it/en/artesky/filter-drawer/3634-cassetto-portafiltri-2-artesky-8055517131787.html But again same question as above is raised.... cause of not so many reviews.

Yes that's how I started this post but I like how it developed....

I used to have the Baader UFC but sold unfortunately, I don't remember having light leakage..... the Zwo one is a bit risky am afraid..

Many thanks... Its good that I have one in my drawer 👍

The idea of using an Ha about 7nm is very tempting I was thinking that maybe I can do the same with L extreme and add it as Luminance to the RGB data from a broadband filter... and that is why I am planning to buy both.... I will be using a SW Esprit 100ED and for wide a Redcat51.

I am interested in buying the above mentioned filter drawer but i have read a couple of posts about light leakage.....which is worrying me Are there any other users who have actually used it and can comment on that ?

Thanks Peter

UHC was my first filter i used , with my Canon EOS 550d....yes i agree not a bad filter but since then filters have become so sophisticated....and complicated..

Ok..

i am really embarrassed to say that i live in a Bortle scale of 8 maybe 9 😢 and why embarrassed....well because i used to do mono and now i am switching to color.. So actually i know that most of the filters that i have mentioned, are not going to help me a lot but........

Thanks Carole , so would your first filter be a narrowband then ?

Thank you Peter , my question is on what to invest first, because i can not afford to buy both of them simultaneously 😂