Nigella Bryant

I found this which might help. OK I had a chance to do some very rudimentary filter comparisons. It's not all IDAS but is IDAS dominated so will put it into this thread. This is a comparison of the LPS-D1, LPS-D2, LPS-V4, HEUIB II, No Filter, and finally the STC Duo Narrowband. There is -no- tracking, exposure is 5 mins with ISO2000, and is taken with the A7S RAW downloaded and converted to JPG. Scope is the Takahashi Mewlon 250CRS (2500/F10), therefore pardon the star trails due to gusty winds. This was from a golf course carpark in Chiba whereby the SQM was 20.27 when the shots were made. it was 21:50 JST and ambient temps were 15.7C (although my Astro A7S cooled the sensor down to -3.9C) and humidity was approx 77%. As mentioned, it was annoyingly windy. There were some LED lights but were literally only 1 foot off the ground but a good 200-300 feet away from me. I was parked next to a 3 story building and next to my car for shielding from the wind. There was a vending machine light on in one of the rooms where my scope was approx 30-40 feet from the window. I don't think it would have contributed much light pollution seeing I'm on such a high focal length scope. Subject was M97 (planetary Owl Nebula). No Filter Used IDAS LPS-D1 IDAS LPS-D2 IDAS LPS-V4 IDAS HEUIB II STC Duo Narrowband

I remember using two filter's one red and one blue I think to look for TLP's back in the mid 70's. Went out of favour and forgotten until now. Perhaps it's time to begin observing these again.

With a standard lens you can get away with 20sec subs. I suggest experimenting with different subs first get some decent one's and stack these. I use a modded 1000d but the method is the same. I've not had issues with hot pixels. My orion neb pic was taken using 30sec subs albeit through a 12inch newtononian f4 scope. Stacked in dss.

Hi all I'm trying to do a polarscope webcam mod. Webcam was £6 so no biggy. I'm at the stage of making a connection for the webcam to fit the polarscope. Images include webcam image through polarscope. Adjustments still needed, slight vignation and off centre.

If they're that bad I'd be looking at Lrgb imaging but that's expensive and a huge learning curve. My skies are bortle 6 so quite bad. It may be worth taking more 30 to 45sec exposures and stacking a lot more of those rather than going for 60secs plus. There isn't much difference between stacking say 60x30sec than stacking 30x60secs. Shorter exposures means the image is less affected by light pollution. I guess if sodium is your most worry then go for the cls. However it's not future proof, most council's are replacing sodium lighting with LEDs and then you'll have to buy a filter that stops that. I guess the ordinary cls filters will be difficult to sell on as more people will be looking for the led suppression filters. I guess it could be another 5yrs+ for all council's to change their lighting to LEDs but my home in Devon is now all LEDs. Just my take on things.

The Cem60 has the lightest mount head for load capacity.

I'm saving up now for the CQ350, lol.

There was an eq7 announced before the eq8 the previous eq7 never made it to market as far as I'm aware and was I think a fairly good twin of the marketed eq8. This will probably happen to this mount as it's pre production mount goes through it's mods until ready for market introduction.

Found this on another website that said it will be available in the spring of 2020. The needs of today's astrophotographers run at the speed of light; it is essential to satisfy the increasingly specific requests and to study solutions to improve the photography and observation sessions of us lovers of the stars and the Universe. At Sky-Watcher we are pleased to announce the release of a new frame, the Sky-Watcher CQ 350 PRO . The arrival in Italy is scheduled for the spring of 2020. Some technical features: 35 Kg load capacity, belt drive, SynScan GoTo computerization, Autoguide input, 1 USB-B 3.0 port, 1 USB-B 2.0, 4 USB 3.0, 6 AUX ports en ° 4 power outputs.

I would look at the Idas D2 filter for your Dslr. I've been thinking of getting one. I use however a modded Canon 1000d. The D2 is a little bit more expensive but filters out led lighting which most of the UK will eventually be using so it's future proof too.

Hi, with the major Planets coming into view this month I was wondering about using winjupos software. I've looked on YouTube but most are from six years ago and other's in other language than English, I'm not a lingwist. So my question is do I take a 15min avi and use winjupos to derotate? Using just winjupos or take several avi files of say 2mins, process in avistake and then use winjupos to combine and derotate. The YouTube vids don't seem to explain the process well, but then I an 60, lol.

I bought it second hand and was supposed to be in good condition. Wasn't under warranty.

I had the same problem with the blue filter going cloudy. TH replaced it for £30 and took only 7 days. I thought, really great service.

I've an Orion optics UK 12inch f4 Newtonian and it has an off set secondary. Spent month's trying to centre then came across the article about fast newtonians being offset. I'd bought the telescope second hand and thought there was something wrong with it but produces good star images with a coma corrector which is a must too for these scopes.

Oooooo, implying I wanted to get rid of 70ft conifers for a better easterly view? Now why would any amateur astronomer resort to such behaviour, lol in all seriousness I had visions of my dome melting and my neighbour hadn't house insurance, crazy, I know.

It's down to resolution of your scope with globs like with double stars, etc. Bigger the scope the more resolved. Be about right for an 80mm I'd say, owned one several years ago.

Thanks, will take a look.

Hi all, my pulsar dome which I bought second hand so probably around 8 to 10 years old is looking dull and off white now. I've also read that fiberglass deteriorates over time because of the Sun so I'm thinking of rubbing down the dome and buying paint to give it protection and a new lease of life. I know fiberglass can be painted but what kind, marine paint?

My then ror observatory was broken into around 2001 and my 12inch GPS stolen, it was obviously a targeted thing, bolt cutters were used to gain entry while we were on holiday. Thankfully it was all insured and had a quick settlement for new for old policy that I had. I've since moved years ago from there and now have a pulsar dome in my current situation. Last year our neighbour lit up there's and our back fence, conifer tree's. It was a huge blaze from their bbq, fire engine's the lot. We were out there hosepipe on the sheds and fibreglass observatory, they were steaming with the heat. The plus side is I now have a good easterly view where huge conifers used to be. Still glad I'm insured though. My dome is also alarmed. Moral of the story is get insurance. It's sometimes covered under outbuildings and contents but check the values as you might need to up that.

Hiya, never had any problems with wind, except for too many beritos, lol. As I'd said b4, my current set up of an 12inch f4 1200mm 4ft scope on an neq6 performs well but I kmow it's well over load and with an option to upgrade to a 16inch a new mount is overdue.

Surely it wouldn't act much of a sail considering it's housed in an observatory dome. The only huge momentum would be while slewing to an object, perhaps two or three at most during a nights imaging?

An f4 I think 1558mm in length. 5ft 3in in old money I think. At the mo, my 12inch f4 is 1200mm or 4tf.

I'm 99% sure I'm going to press the pay button on the CEM120 which I think will be good combo for my 12inch f4 Newtonian and guidescope @20kg load and future proof if I decide next year to upgrade to a 16inch newtononian @32kg load. Thanks everyone who's chipped in, it's been very useful.

I'd only be looking at the non encoder at what I can afford but with guiding would that still be good if it's not 100% beta tested. I'm really taken with the Cem120.