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About alanjgreen

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    Sub Dwarf

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    Cumbria. UK
  1. PST 40 or Lunt 50, Help !!

    Pluton, What is your budget? Best bargain at the moment is this 2nd hand LS60 (much better than either LS50 or PST!) http://www.astrobuysell.com/uk/propview.php?view=130323 - this is a good deal for someone! - assume you are in the UK? Otherwise, look out for a good 2nd hand Lunt, you do find the occasional good deal but most people still ask too much for a LS60 tilt tuned unfortunately. There are good savings to be made 2nd hand especially now the sun is dropping in the sky and daylight hours are reducing... Alan
  2. Beginners telescope advice

    Tim, Dont bother buying eyepieces starter kits, they are no good. You will end up using 20% of what is in the kit and even these will soon be replaced by something better. The eyepieces relevant to each scope are not the same ones! Depending on the "focal length" and "aperture" of the scope, we can help determine which eyepieces are needed. So, buy the scope first THEN use the free eyepieces for 2-3 months with the scope and build a feeling for what you want to improve. Then ask for advice on this website, provide a budget amount and people will advise the next step. BUT BUY NO EYEPIECES UNTIL YOU AT LEAST HAVE YOUR TARGET SCOPE AND HAVE GAINED SOME EXPERIENCE USING IT. there is no rush to spend your cash, just simple step by step, astronomy is a journey Alan
  3. John, I didn't know the AYOII had the option for built in encoders !!! (just been to their website and read about the neat solution they offer). It just got added to my "wish list" - thanks Here's the link if anyone else is interested http://www.aokswiss.ch/ayo/ayo_ii/main_ayo_ii.html Alan
  4. if you look down the front of the scope then the baffle tube is the black plastic tube coming up through the centre of the primary mirror. You are getting into minutia now - just spend the money already!!!
  5. Beginners telescope advice

    Hi Tim, If I was buying a scope to share with a small child then that scope would have to have TRACKING. Expecting a child to manhandle a scope to keep an object in the eyepiece field of view (FOV) is a step too far in my opinion. You will have tokeep stepping in to reposition the scope so she can once again see the object as it will keep drifting out of view (due to the earths rotation). With tracking, you (or the computer) gets the object in the eyepiece field of view (FOV) then you just stand back and leave her to it. The scope will track the object (this means the scope will be moving ever so slowly counteracting the earths rotation) and it will REMAIN visible in the eyepiece for as long as you like! Later, when she understands how to use the keypad then all you need do is complete the INITIAL ALIGNMENT then you can step back and leave her to choose the objects etc. The scope will take care of finding them. The way to keep a child interested is by seeing a range of the objects that are up there in the sky. Standing there getting cold while you hunt down something for her to look at will soon wear a bit thin. You should also consider if you intend to hold her at the eyepiece or get a box or similar for her to stand on. These smaller reflector scopes will be quite low to the ground and she can stand on a box to reach the eyepiece. With a big tall dob then you will end up standing there holding her to the eyepiece which is not very comfortable. So, yes 200p DOBs are great value but only if you are a full size adult - I would not expect a child to be able to chuck it around or even REACH THE EYEPIECE. Here is what I would buy in your situation https://www.firstlightoptics.com/reflectors/sky-watcher-star-discovery-150p.html This scope will also need a power source, do not attempt to run them on batteries - they dont last long & they dont provide a steady power source (especially in cold weather) leading to scopes doing strange things as the power drops below the minimum required. Something like this is needed https://www.firstlightoptics.com/batteries-powerpacks/skywatcher-powertank-7ah.html HTH, Alan p.s. if thats well over budget and you have a table in your garden THEN a great scope to use with kids are the HERITAGE table top range such as https://www.firstlightoptics.com/beginner-telescopes/skywatcher-heritage-100p-tabletop-dobsonian.html https://www.firstlightoptics.com/heritage/skywatcher-heritage-130p-flextube.html these however do not have any electronics and alas that means no tracking
  6. If you want 68 degree FOV for £100 then the 40mm aero sounds your best shot. if you want almost the same FOV with more magnification then the only other choice to consider is a 30mm with 82 degree FOV such as the ES82. But at £250 they are twice as much. Also bigger and heavier. i am sure the aero is a good place to start your widefield collection personally I would lose a little FOV to gain the extra magnification of the 30mm 82 degree ES. Alan
  7. Hi Simon, 1. first thing is to change the finder. Either buy a right angled correct image RACI finder if you like the experience of using a 8x spotting style scope (RACI will remove all that back to front view nonsense). Or switch to a telrad of similar device as these only show what you can see rather than showing 8x meaning you see too many stars in the finding process and get confused. The telrad will also provide navigation circles in the view to help further navigation... https://www.firstlightoptics.com/finders/telrad-finder-astronomy.html https://www.firstlightoptics.com/finders/skywatcher-9x50-right-angled-erecting-finderscope.html 2. Buy a nice low power WIDE field eyepiece (82 or 100 degrees field of view (FOV)), this will enable you to see more sky in the eyepiece and increase the chance that you can see whatever you lined up on with the finder! It will also mean less nudging of the dob is required as the object will stay in your view for more time (once you have found it). I would recommend a nice wide 20-30 mm eyepiece to get you started, you can always apply more magnification later (by switching o an eyepiece will less mm once you have the object nicely centered in your wide field eyepiece) but a good low power eyepiece will bridge the gap between the dob and the finder. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/explore-scientific-eyepieces/explore-scientific-82-degree-series-eyepieces.html expensive = yes (but will last a lifetime. Pick them up 2nd hand if you keep an eye on astrobuysell or this site for 70% of new price) Alan
  8. Getting to know the Lunt LS60

    I think that binoviewing a double stack ls50 will give a very dim image. Probably a step too far. My experience with binoviewing the double stack ls60 (with 60mm DS) is that it is very good. I never use single eye anymore for solar. i also recommend people with ls60 scopes and ds60 double stacks look into the m90 rotators that allow you to turn the DS unit while looking through the eyepiece- more detail can suddenly appear as you rotate the front DS unit based on the conditions. its a case of matching both etalons to the conditions to tease out the extra filament or too. https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p4295_TS-Optics-360--Rotation-with-M90-thread.html
  9. I can't use binoviewers with a quark so I probably won't
  10. Hi John, for 1000 I would go for either a ls50 (new) or second hand tilt tuned ls60 - this looks a good deal http://www.astrobuysell.com/uk/propview.php?view=130323 - most people seem to ask way to much for a 2nd hand tilt tuned ls60 - here's a ls50 with feathertouch for 850 (looks a nice deal too) http://www.astrobuysell.com/uk/propview.php?view=130665 for 2000, I would go for double stack ls50 over a single stack ls60. Of course if you target eventual ls60 double stack then you better start with a ls60 and add the 60mm double stack later... the double stack ls60 is a lifetime keeper If you were to get a ls60 then later add a 50mm double stack to it (losing aperture) then you may as well go the ls50 route from the start! it is my understanding that it is easier to double stack a pressure tuned unit as the tilt tuned is less tuneable to find the sweet spot. So consider this before buying a tilt tuned ls60. conclusion - decide where you want to end up? Solar is too expensive to buy and sell and buy again! Alan p.s. I too would be nervous about buying a quark.
  11. This review says "yes" it will be good at the f10 speed of your sct scope. I just looked at FLOs website at the 38 panaview and 40mm aero. i would probably buy the 40mm aero of the two. Three reasons 1. The aero is more reusable if you bought a 2nd scope (faster - such as dob or refractor). The review says this worked better with faster scope speeds. Making it more of a "keeper". 2. The 20mm eye relief of the aero will be more comfortable than the 28mm of the panaview. Eyerelief is the target distance between your eyeball and the top eyepiece glass surface. 28mm would be great if your wear glasses but otherwise may stop you getting your eye right down into the eye cup (depends how you like to position your eye?) 3. Weight. Best not to make your scope too back heavy as this may affect balance which will impact tracking. My CPC had dual fork and was much stronger than the single fork design. The evo mount is stronger than the old nexstar mount so don't worry too much about this.
  12. More good info to be found in here And a few votes here for a 40mm maxvision from FLO https://www.firstlightoptics.com/explore-scientific-eyepieces/explore-scientific-68-degree-maxvision-eyepieces.html
  13. if you download "sky safari" then you can add "equipment" and enter eyepiece focal length/fov combinations. You also enter your scope details (focal length) then it can project "circles" onto the display so you can see which will get the widest actual field of view Looks like FLO have a sale on some skywatcher 70 degree EPs https://www.firstlightoptics.com/clearance/sky-watcher-swa-70-eyepieces.html there is a 32mm at the bottom that should work well in an SCT (they are forgiving on eyepieces due to being slow f/10) - of course if you use a reducer then you will increase the speed and then it may be a bit more challenging for the cheaper EPs! Always have a read for reviews of any EP you decide BEFORE rushing into buy mode
  14. No need for a set! Why do you need a finder EP if you are getting a starsense camera? - it will find it for you! I had a 41mm panoptic which was great for the Veil and other "wide" targets (you wont get them all in but you get the max possible FOV) - 41mm panoptic is the widest possible 2" view. The 56mm Meade only has 50 degree FOV so dont get fooled by the big mm quotes. - you need to note the focal length (mm) AND the FOV of each eyepiece. - a small FOV combined with a big focal length just means that you see the same but with less magnification Your best bet is "30mm with 82 degrees" OR "40mm with 70 degrees" this will maintain decent magnification with no actual loss of FOV. fyi, I had a 2" 41mm 68degree Panoptic and then my next longest eyepiece was a 2" 22mm 82degree Nagler. Two 2" EPs were sufficient. I then had 17, 14, 12 & 10mm in 1.25" size. If you buy 2" filters and put them onto the diagonal (scope side will have a filter thread) then it does not matter if you have a mix of 2" and 1.25" EPs
  15. Sounds like all you need is a nice 30mm+ 2inch eyepiece in that case. You can keep an eye on second hand if you want to save 30% of new price!