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Found 33 results

  1. I am writing this post as I have just received and fitted a free replacement lens supplied by Lunt that has fixed my Blocking Filter and revolutionised my views... The Story I had begun to get a feeling whilst using my solar scope that it was getting more and more difficult to (1) get an initial view that I was happy with (2) almost impossible to increase magnification and get a sharp image (3) the sweet spot was shrinking I removed the Blocking filter and looked down the long extension tube to see a grimy looking front lens inside I searched on the internet and found a picture of a new one and saw that the front lens was supposed to be clear. I set about cleaning it with Baader Wonder Fluid and the cleaning cloth which got rid of at least 80% of it, but a thin film remained (see pic). After more internet searching, I found a post on cloudynights that showed the exact same problem being suffered by other folks and stated that Lunt were happy to send out free replacement lenses! https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/534161-lunt-60-mm-double-stacked-solar-scope-blocking-filter-issue/ https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/433046-polishing-optical-acrylic-lens-element-in-a-lunt-s/ So, I took some photos of the scope, blocking filter and sales invoice and emailed Lunt USA on Monday this week. On Tuesday (the next day!), Bresser Germany emailed me to say that Lunt had asked them to send me a free replacement lens (Great!) The Lens arrived this morning (just 4 days after emailing Lunt!) and I fitted it into the Blocking filter following the supplied instructions, then headed out to view the sun... Here is the glass as received... Here are the supplied instructions... Here is the blocking filter after I fitted the replacement glass (Looking very transparent) ... WOW, WHAT A REVELATION! (1) The image is so much brighter (2) The sweet spot is so much bigger (3) Higher magnification is no longer an issue and some lovely surface detail revealed itself ... I would encourage all Lunt Solar Scope owners to go check the front lens of their blocking filter for any signs of fungus or growth and if you find some then don't hesitate to email Lunt USA for a replacement. Happy Solar Viewing, Alan
  2. Hi, I have an LS35THa. It has a single etalon with a 0.75 Angtrom bandwidth and a B600 blocking filter. It's an £850 scope. So... I was looking at "upgrading" to a Lunt 60mm It has a single etalon with a 0.75 Angtrom bandwidth and a B600 blocking filter - Mmm... seems very familier... It's £1700. I don't find the focuser on mine 35 doesn't, well, focus, and the image is sharp enough. Is its aperture, importantly, "small"? I've seen some amazing images in the 35mm, even from Lunt themselves. It seems that image processing is the most important aspect of any H-a scope. What actual visual improvement will I get for a scope that's double the price, or even more expensive versions? I'm happy to buy - even an 80mm, if I am actually getting another £1000-£4000 of improvement but I don't need one just for the sake of it. Confused! Many thanks, Buz
  3. Here's a 10 frame animation. 1 frame per minute. It shows the movement of this large prominence over a very short time frame. A full frame shot to show the relative size of this huge prominence. And another shot with a black dot that shows the relative size of the Earth. Tech Details: Lunt 80mm Ha telescope, ZWO ASI1600mm cooled camera. Processed in AutoStakkert!2 and ImPPG, colorized and layered in PhotoshopCC.
  4. Gents, I'm looking for a new Halpha set up, and am looking for suggestions. I've got a budget of ~£2000 (might be able to stretch a bit). Like to image proms with decent detail with fair bit of surface features (Quark takes care of the surface detail). I'm leaning towards Lunt but not sure to go for LS50 or LS60, would welcome suggestions from Lunt users (not sure solarMax will be in budget). I hoping to be able to reuse my Celstron 6SE Goto (been using this with SW ED80 and Quark) and ASI174MM. Any suggestions welcome. Thanks in advance.
  5. Apologies if the sun vanishes for a while - my new Lunt arrived and is now unboxed and ready for use - hoping for some sun this afternoon. I got the skytee 2 so I can have the TV85 alongside with the Baader wedge. It'll be interesting to compare viewing through both scopes.
  6. Following on from 70mm "Shootout", Part 1: Daylight... Well, this is going to be a whole lot shorter . Sky wasn't brilliant, but it at least permitted comparisons. A reminder: LE = Lunt Engineering 16x70 HA = Helios Apollo 15x70 S2 = Helios Stellar II 15x70 Strath = Strathspey 15x70 Dark space visible between members of δ Cep (40 arsec, mags +4.1, +6.1): LE: starts to deteriorate at 80%, still visible at 90% of FoV HA: starts to deteriorate at 50%, still visible at 75% of FoV S2: starts to deteriorate at 40%, still visible at 50% of FoV Strath: starts to deteriorate at 25%, still visible at: 30% of FoV Faintest star seen NGC 1981: LE: +9.7 HA: +9.6 S2: +9.3 Strath: +8.9 Trapezium stars seen: LE: 3 (fleeting) HA: 2 S2: 2 (fleeting) Strath: not split. Impression of M42: LE: Clear and detailed HA: Slightly less crisp than LE S2: Similar to HA, but not quite as bright Strath: Comparatively washed out. Jupiter-Io, 28 arcsec separation: Could resolve Io in LE, not in others (washed out by planet glare) Glare from Moon just outside edge of field: LE: None HA: Perceptible S2: Obtrusive Strath: Very obtrusive Colour rendition: LE: "vibrant" HA: good - colours of μ,ζ,λ,δ Cephei easily distinguished S2: as HA Strath: Washed out, ζ and δ look very similar Chromatic aberrration: LE: V. good on axis, noticeable but not obtrusive on Venus and lunar off-axis, none on first magnitude stars (but colour of Betelgeuse seemed to change slightly towards the edge of field). Very sensitive to correct eye positioning! HA: Good on axis, noticeable on Venus and the lunar limb even slightly off-axis, noticeable on first magnitude stars near the edge of the field of view. S2: as HA Strath: Halos on 1st mag stars on axis. Noticeable off axis. Contrast: LE > HA > S2 > Strath The LE did not "feel" brighter than the HA, but it was the increased contrast that enabled slightly fainter stars to be seen. It is also probably what made M42 seem so much crisper. Verdicts on the "new" ones: LE: Really nice binocular. Lighter and crisper than the HA. I got one. S2. Mixed bag. Probably the least expensive "true" 70mm around, but optical quality (especially contrast and control of stray light) not as good as the Pentax 20x60, which is the same price at TBS. Full reviews on both of these now posted on my Reviews Page.
  7. Hi all, now finally after waiting for ages (at least it feels like this ), I had a another look at our home star through my new Lunt 50mm H-alpha telescope. We've been visiting my in-laws yesterday and this time I did my first sketch with reddish pastels. I'm not fully happy with the result: I used pastels and pastel pencils in different reddish colours (yellow, orange, dark orange, etc.) but it seems that they are not exactly just different brightness of the same color tone. Instead they appear to be really different colors.So I'm still trying with those to improve my results. As an alternative attempt maybe I'll go for just doing a sketch with chalk and charcoal like I do with my lunar sketches and put the color on it later at the computer. What I'm fully happy with is that I could show the sun in H alpha light to my family yesterday. They were indeed impressed. Telescope: Lunt LS50THa B600 PT Eyepiece: Celestron X-cel 10mm Date & Time: February 6th, 2016 / 1500-1530 CET Location: balcony, Dortmund area, Germany Technique: orange and red pastels and pastel pens on black sketching cardbox Hope you like it! Achim
  8. A quick background. I had previously spent my fair share of time in observatories and looking through a few telescopes. As an adult I FINALLY got a 6" Dob that I can view some distant objects with. It was exciting that first time I accidentally came across the Orion Nebula. That moment was awesome. Nothing compared to the goosebumps I got in the hot sun when a coworker allowed me to look through the eyepiece of his Coronado PST for the first time. I had NEVER seen anything like that. The detail in the sun was very impressive. I watched the price on that telescope inexplicably increase and never come back down. I did my research. I waited years! Finally I decided to plunk down the cash for the Lunt LS50THa. I got the B600 filter because I wanted to be able to take pictures at some point. I spent about an hour today with a clear sky tracking the sun. (I'm working on saving for a better tripod and mount.) So far... I am not feeling the $1,000 worth of a view I was hoping for. I could BARELY make out ANY detail the surface. When I could, it was only visible in one or two areas. There was a dark areas on what to me as I faced the sun setting on the West top right and bottom left. But it did not appear at all like what I saw through the much cheaper PST. I HOPE its something I am doing wrong. I tried a variety of different eyepieces. I hope it gets better.
  9. A couple of months back I began contemplating a new focuser for my LS60. Original post In the end I decided to go for a Moonlite (from FLO) and it arrived yesterday . I'm very happy with it! I'd identified a few possible options: Baader Steeltrack (~£210 delivered from TS) JMI Event Horizon (RVO said they could supply but did not respond with a price ) Feathertouch (I contacted Widescreen - where I bought my LS60 - but they did not respond with a price ) Moonlite (£330 delivered from FLO) In the end I went with the Moonlite because I have a Moonlite on my Dob and it's lovely (and because it looks cool in orange!) Andrew
  10. My Lunt LS60 THa now has a lovely new Moonlite focuser: Andrew
  11. After months I have finally managed to achieve what I set out to do a long, long time ago in a.. well, this solar system actually because it's about my solar scope and the CG4. I purchased the CG4 (after a month of it being on back-order) with the intention of it being a stable platform for my Lunt LS60, the camera tripod and EQ1 being rather inadequate for the job (though EQ1 was a vast improvement over the camera tripod). I managed to purchase the wrong bar (ordered the losmandy by mistake), then found that I didn't have the appropriate bolts to attach the clamshell to the vixen. The final hurdle has been acquiring camera tripod bolts of the correct size and length, it took two attempts from an ebay seller (top quality bolts, mind you) to get ones that were exactly right for the Vixen dovetail bar and LS60 clamshell. I have to say that the CG4 performs brilliantly with the LS60, and they look great together in their white livery; it's like the two were made for one another. The blue Synta dovetail bar compliments the red part of the LS60, too. I look forward to trying the CG4 with a decent 80mm scope if I get one later in the year. Anyway, here are a couple of pics: That is the Hyperion 8 - 24 zoom, it works pretty well but the top end is sensitive to seeing conditions even during the day, I couldn't achieve focus today so stayed at the next stop down (12, I think). There is plenty of detail to be seen and appreciated at 12mm, focus is amazingly sharp. If I wanted to, I could probably slip in my 10mm X-Cel eyepiece, that is usually good for a close-up, though not quite as sharp as the Hyperion at 12. I do like it when twisting the pressure tuner knob to bring in the detail of the prominences, it's like they just appear out of the darkness, it has a good 'throttle' feel to it too. On the CG4 there is hardly any vibration, even when adjusting the pressure tuner knob (which requires a bit of effort). Touching the feather focus wheel doesn't even register. Very pleased with my set up, worth waiting for.
  12. I was doing some solar observing and was puzzled by the haze i was getting in the eyepiece especially as my white light scope was showing clear. After some checking found that the entry lens on my B600 blocking filter has something on it, see picture. Tried cleaning it off with an optical cloth but it remains. Has anyone got any ideas what is the problem and what to do about it, is it something that I can do myself or will it require sending to Lunt for fixing.
  13. Pressure Tuning review Hello everyone, I figured I would write down my thoughts on my Lunt LS60 pressure tune retrofit, bear with me though, I am a solar baby and cannot talk the talk as deeply as you seasoned observers. On May 17 of this year I shipped off my Lunt for a pressure tune retrofit, it was originally a tilt tuner, I was always wondering why it had a tuner at all considering the views were great, I was able to see both prominences and disc detail like filaments and so on simultaneously which was great. But the tilt tuner left me feeling like I was missing out after reading about what tuning really meant, by that I mean no matter how much I turned that little wheel back and forth absolutely nothing changed no matter how good seeing was or how steady I kept my gaze, and my eyes are good. Both Lunt and my local telescope shop whom I trust very much upon inspection assured me that it will not be a visible change, the wheel they say was to snap the etalon into band and not so much to tune through different features, on or off band and that was what it's function was I was told. Ok I was ok with that, the views were great so I didn't let it chew away at me, but a small part of me was convinced that my tuning wheel was not working properly, it turned with such ease that a stiff breath would spin it, it just didn't have any resistance at all and it bugged me a bit. I decided to take the hit and ship it off for a retrofit to pressure tuning, the cost would be $500 US plus shipping back and forth, which in Canadian turned out to be $850 all said and done, i purchased the scope for such a great price that I figured why not I'd still be ahead anyway. Off it went, I was nervous knowing pimple faced teen aged warehouse kids would be hurling my scope into and out of trucks, but it arrived safely and the wait was on, Lunt customer service was commendable to say the least, they assured the retrofit would be an improvement and so helpful and informative throughout the whole process. Exactly two months later I received my scope, which was about 3 weeks longer than the time I was quoted but that's ok, the eclipse is around the corner here in north america and Lunt is busier than ever. I must mention that there was an issue with the feather touch focusser when it arrived, it was rough and felt like it had received a hard knock, I contacted Lunt and they offered to send me a standard focusser until after the eclipse because they had no feather touch in stock. I didn't blame them for the focusser, but they were concerned and offered to take action before interrogating me and diverting blame to the shipper and that is a commendable thing, it turns out that after some investigation by me I realized that it was my fault, I recall shipping the scope on its side within the case which left the focuser knob contacting the lid of the case , I remember having to press the lid down a bit too hard. After speaking to starlight, the focuser manufacturer, they said they've seen that before, a knock will misalign the focuser and it clearly was knocked during shipping I managed to fix the focuser after all, now let's hear about the pressure tuning already right! First thing that struck me was the size of the tuning cylinder, it is larger and adds more weight than I imagined, this is great for a good grip on the cylinder (which you'll need!!) I'll get to that later, but it did throw the balance of the scope on my Grand Polaris mount way off, so much so that I was unable to move the clamshell forward enough on the bracket to offset the added weight, if my bracket was another 2 inches longer it would be ok, something I have to consider. One very important factor when switching to pressure tuning is the mount, I'm using a rock solid Vixen GP, oldie but goodie, it's solid as a mountain and smooth as silk, but I'm afraid that anything less would have made for a hard time. Pressure tuning is nowhere near as effortless as turning that little wheel, i can guarantee that if you are planning on mounting one on anything less than a very sturdy mount you may be frustrated, the effort required to turn the wheel is far greater than the force required to turn any focuser. You definitely don't want the sun to look like a dot on an oscilloscope while you're trying to find your tuning preference. I figure I'll describe what pressure tuning is from a mechanical point of view, it is as simple as a cylinder with a piston inside that forces air into a chamber inside the scope. As you thread the cylinder in it pushes air into the chamber surrounding the etalon which in turn physically affects the etalon. I have been enjoying the pressure tuner a lot lately and made sure to give it a fair chance under good seeing conditions, so far it has been a pleasure to use comparing with tilt tuning. It was explained to me that tilt tuning (this is from Lunt) is to snap the etalon into band and not for tuning back and forth during a session, I was sold it was on or off band and that's about it. The pressure tuner right away showed off its superiority, i am now able to finely tune back and forth revealing different features in full detail rather than a happy mid point for all features which is where I was at with tilt tuning. Some people i understand leave their tuning point in one place and don't touch it which is fine, but I greatly enjoyed finely turning that cylinder through its travel, ever so slightly and watching different features reveal themselves in fine detail. Being a noob in solar astronomy I cannot yet get into the hard core jibber jabber behind every features characteristics, I don't yet know if I'm seeing dilithium Crystals emitted from the flux ionic resonations within cavitation nodules but I'll get there lol. One thing I can speak of though is when I turn that cylinder I can actually see its effects whereas before I was unable to exact any meaningful change on the suns disc. One thing I was very curious about was if there would be any banding where certain sections of the disc were in tune while other parts were not, my tilt tuned model had an annoying issue where the best view was to the far right and as the disc moved detail would drop off near center. I understand this is common and can be different in every scope, I am happy to say that the disc pretty evenly detailed across its face, I've carefully watched as I moved the disc side to side looking for bad spots and with the exception of the outer edge I cannot see any detail drop off. I'm glad because Lunt says they can do their best to remedy that but cannot guarantee it won't have banding. I hope this little write up can help others who may be contemplating the same retrofit, one has to ask whether a pricey retrofit is worth the cost, I myself think it was definitely worth it, aside from the advantages of pressure tuning itself I'm sure it's resale value improved a fair bit. I did notice that Lunt did change the serial number sticker on my scope. The serial number changed from 2009920 to 0001392 which kind of gives it a whole new identity I guess, kind of like if Ford restored your car to new condition and even changed the VIN number lol. In conclusion i would advise anyone to pack their cope carefully and make sure your scope is sitting on its belly and not sideways like i did unfortunately, and please do yourself a huge favour and insist on a signature required return from lunt. My scope was left on my front doorstep, big box sitting there just screaming to be taken, i almost lost my mind! and insist than lunt ad a bit more foam around the sides between your scopes metal case and the shipping box not just foam end caps and 2 inches of empty space all around the sides of the box, this is something that kind of upset me, lucky it was ok though. Anyway, if anyone out there has any questions I'll be glad to answer them if I can, thank you for your patience regarding my lack of in depth knowledge.
  14. Just ordered a Lunt LS50THa scope from FLO I had been undecided about going for the 50 or the 60 but in the end decided the 50 was the better buy. I mean yes I would have liked the 60 with PT and Feather Touch but my wallet said otherwise. Have also ordered the Feather Touch focuser, Sol-Searcher and a short dovetail bar. Still works out hundreds less than the cheapest 60 but has the pressure tuning and Feather Touch that I wanted and can be double stacked in the future if I want to. Got my old Manfrotto 475 tripod with modified 405 geared head down from the loft and dusted off. A bit overkill for such a small scope perhaps but you can't have too stable a mount. Have used a C8 on this mount so it won't even notice the Lunt. Will still be light enough to carry the full set-up outside one handed though. I appologise in advance for the cloudy and rainy weather to come in the next couple of weeks. John
  15. The Sun - H-Alpha light. 07-23-16 11:33am PDT Lunt 80mm Ha telescope ZWO ASI1600MM camera The light colored region around the 10 o'clock position is the sunspot active region AR2565-2567 that has created several large solar flares in the last few days. Inverted - Contrast enhanced to show prominences along the edge. Animated loop - This loop was created from 36 individual frames and loops forward and back continuously. Each frame was created from a short 250 frame AVI captured every 30 seconds. Each 250 frame AVI was stacked in AutoStakkart!2 and tweaked using Registax 6. The 36 individual frames were then colorized, layered and animation created in PhotoshopCC. 11:34:15 - 11:54:45am PDT.
  16. The Sun in Ha 21 Apr 2018 Absolutely crap seeing conditions... even the "blue" parts of the sky between the cloud gaps had a high haze. Nice new active region (AR2706) with spots and a nice prominence showing a large detached section Lunt LS60THa, ASI 1600MM camera and Sharpcap capture software Full Disk AR2706 Prominences and nice large detached section (haven't seen one that well detached before) Dave
  17. I pointed my solar telescope at a small prominence in the hope that it would do something whilst I imaged it. Because I am new to solar imaging I don't know whether this is particularly lucky, or if it's something that's easily caught. Over the space of about an hour I captured 18 videos, each of 1000 frames, using a mono DMK21. I stacked 10% of the frames, and then manually went about aligning and cropping the 18 stacked images because ImPPG didn't like to do it for me. I also took an image of the solar surface, just to get rid of the white in the image, and add something visually interesting to the solar disc. I used a curves adjustment to make it orange, and then made a movie in MS Movie Maker. Hope you enjoy it! solar_prominences_long.mp4
  18. The Baader zoom is known for it's great versatile performance with h-alpha. Unfortunately as many of you Lunt 50mm owners know, it does not reach focus with the scope due to a lack of in focus. I saw saguaro's post here: http://www.cloudynights.com/topic/475199-anyone-with-the-new-lunt-50mm-pt/?p=6476959 but the adapters would set me back $40+. I went ahead and ordered a shorter eyepiece holder for the blocking filter- one that is 15mm tall vs the 30mm height of the original. Made sure to get one with setscrews to protect my eyepiece barrels from scratches. Arrived from China surprisingly fast- 9 days from the day I ordered. Box The pieces. Original on left, new one on right. Height difference. Original on left again. Attached to blocking filter. Original configuration seen first. Zoom in blocking filter. Notice the small gap. It's caused by the eyepiece barrel resting on the blocking filter. Not by any means a bad thing. Proof it reaches focus. There's still some extra in travel left.
  19. My first decent image with the new baby (Lunt 80mm Ha) This is a composite of two images, one exposed for the surface detail and one for the prominence edge detail. Each image was 2500 frames captured using the ZWO ASI1600MM Cooled camera, processed in Autostakkert!2 then tweaked, layered and colorized in PhotoshopCC. Still lots to learn but I'm happy with my first image. Only gets better from here.
  20. MattGoo

    Lunt Herschel Wedge

    From the album: Telescopes

    Lunt Hershel Wedge (1.25")
  21. I am thinking of getting a Lunt 50mm scope. I want to image as well as observe. I am thinking I could put my ZWO on the scope and capture video. My question is, does focal length in a solar scope relate to the FoV as it does for a non-solar scope? The field of view calculator (http://www.12dstring.me.uk/fovcalc.php) suggests I could just about get a full disc with a focal length of 350mm (the 50mm Lunt), but not with a focal length of 500mm (the 60mm Lunt). Is my logic correct?
  22. Baader being more known to me, but Lunt seem more specialist. Which is better optically, and which has better heat tolerance for long sessions?
  23. Hello everyone, I decided to take the big step and send my tilt tuned Lunt LS60 to Arizona for a pressure tune retrofit, cost $500 US but after reading countless opinions from pressure tune users I decided it would be worth the dough. Cant wait to get it back now, turnaround time is about 30 days or less they tell me, oh man I wanna see now, god I hate waiting for things!.
  24. Today's ISS Solar Transit taken just north of Jean, NV. Boy was it hot out there today but with the Sun high overhead that means the ISS was actually much closer to us as well. A mere 268 miles above us compared to last weeks pass that was 513 miles away due to the low angle. Of course with it closer to us the apparent speed is also much faster so I only managed to grab it in 14.5 frames this time. Technical details: Lunt 80mm Ha scope ZWO ASI 1600MM camera capturing at 30fps Processed in AutoStakkert!2, tweaked in ImPPG, Layered and colorized in PhotoshopCC Composite of 17 layers. 1 layer is the finished plate for the surface. 1 layer is for the edge prominence's and then each frame that captured the ISS is layered in with everything removed except for the ISS. ©2016 Photography by Greg McKay
  25. Hi all, today I sketched the wonderful sunspot AR2529 in both H alpha and in "white" light. In fact, in order to have a quick comparison of the two spectral ranges without swapping scope and eyepiece, I simply detuned the pressure tuner of the Lunt completely. It worked sufficiently well: When being fully detuned, the Lunt just shows a red sun with sunspots as if they would have appeared on a white sun with normal telescope and solar filter. Here's my sketch: Telescope: Lunt LS50THaB600PT Eyepiece: Skywatcher Planetary 5mm Date & Time: April 15th, 2016 / 1730-1815 CEST Location: Home terrace, Dusseldorf region, Germany Technique: orange and white pastels and pastel pens, charcoal pen on black sketching paper. Hope you enjoy it! Achim
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