Laurin Dave

Hi Alan Trust you are well ... This is what I could do with it in Pixinsight and Photoshop.. Cropped, background extracted, photometrically colour calibrated, stretched and background colour reduced in Pixinsight.. then a bit of noise reduction, colour and contrast enhancement and dust bunny repair in Photoshop.. I've attached the background extracted and colour calibrated file for you to have a play with.. A pretty good set of data, one thing I'd recommend you do to improve your data is to take and use flats. All the best Dave Alan_M33_Crop_DBE_pcc_HSVrep.tif

Cracking set of images from you lately Goran.. this is my favourite, the bottom nebula reminds me of the "Balrog" from Lord of the Rings... Dave

I use it with SGPro .. have had no issues with it and it is much faster than Platesolve II and works fast even if the scope is pointed some way away from where it thinks it is.. when Platesolve would revert to Blind Solving for ages then fail

It is !! I found it on here.. Looks even better now.. Dave

Very nice David.. if you want you can remove the magenta halos with the following actions in Pixinsight.. invert the image, apply scnr green .. reinvert and they’re gone.. it’s worth experimenting with the amount of scnr Dave

Very nice Goran and congratulations on your first light (you seem to be having a few recently).... nice and flat those Esprit150s Dave

Maybe try increasing the Star Mass Detection tolerance in the Brain Guiding tab

Great image Adam... when I did this I did what Ciaran has suggested with masks for the Oiii Bubble on the Crescent and also the Soap Bubble which you have at the bottom.. Dave

Thank you Alan, that's one of problems with this game... remembering stuff late at night when you haven't done it for a while...maybe a check list Dave

Thanks Spongey, I too prefer the SHO. Its the Ha taken with the Esprit150 that adds the fine detail and the tiny stars (the above images are at 50%).. however there's also the realisation from the data taken this year that I could have saved myself a the time and effort trying to do a mosaic if I'd taken the RGB last year on the Esprit100 ... Where do you get yours printed? Thanks Philyo Thanks Brendan

The Heart Nebula in HaLum_HaR_OiiiG_OiiiB and HaLum_SHO. These images combine data taken in 2019 (when I optimistically set out on a 4 panel mosaic) with my Esprit 150/SX-46 (25hrs Ha spread over all 4 panels) and Esprit 100/ASI1600mm (27hrs Ha and 16 hrs Oiii spread over all 4 panels and 8 hrs Sii over the two top panels) with data taken this year on my Esprit100/SX46 (3.5hrs Ha plus 2hrs each RGB) and GT71/ASI1600 (3.5 hrs Oiii and 5hrs Sii). I also took 30 hrs of RGB data last year but was unable to satisfactorily merge all parts of the RGB data together. Processed in Pixinsight APP and Photoshop. A bit of background…. The Heart Nebula, IC 1805, Sharpless 2-190, lies some 7500 light years away from Earth and is located in the Perseus Arm in the constellation Cassiopeia. It was discovered by William Herschel on 3 November 1787. It is an emission nebula showing glowing ionized hydrogen gas and darker dust lanes. The brightest part of the nebula (a knot at its western edge) is separately classified as NGC 896 (The Fish Head Nebula), because it was the first part of the nebula to be discovered. The nebula's intense output and its morphology are driven by the radiation emanating from a small group of stars near the nebula's center. This open cluster of stars, known as Melotte 15, contains a few bright stars nearly 50 times the mass of our Sun, and many more dim stars that are only a fraction of our Sun's mass. Planetary Nebula Webo 1 can be seen on the left of each image just below the middle. Thanks for looking Dave

Nice choice.. There may be some Grant but I'd say don't bother and concentrate on LRGB. Also maybe move the framing a tad to the left (ie the Iris to the right) to capture more of the dust to the left side of the Iris Dave

Steve, Dave.. have you looked at the ADUs by channel and are they similar? reason for asking is that with my LED panel and DSLR the channels are very different, with Blue at 30k or so Green would be 20k and Red about 5k (if I remember correctly) also the curvature of the flats from vignetting is very different between the channels and they don't flatten each other (whether they should I don't know... but my LRGB ones do) .. they don't work and produce reverse vignetting.. Although not sure I attributed this to the large variation in ADU between channels and stopped using flats, cropping instead. A friend also had the same issue with his ASI294 and an LED panel... Following the thread as I'd like to know the answer, maybe @Allinthehead can shed some light. Dave

Pleased it’s fixed.. that rms is pretty typical for a Mesu

Here.... just caught the end of it....

Thanks again Olly... in the stretched Ha I can see that there's some fine structure which with more integration time will become more apparent in the colour version.. One to come back to... Thanks Adam.. Dave

Thanks Olly.. I am so here it is at full frame with a bonkers stretch on the Ha... Dave

IC 5146, the Cocoon Nebula and Barnard 168 in Cygnus. Data acquired with 4 scope/camera systems over 2 years... most recently dodging the clouds over the last few days I got 60 mins lum and 60 mins each RGB on my Esprit100/SX46 and 3hrs Ha on my GtT71/ASI1600. Using APP Pixinsight and Photoshop I've combined this with some high res data on the Cocoon acquired at at Olly's @ollypenrice Les Granges observatory in July 2019, 90mins each RGB 390 mins lum and 135mins Ha on the TEC140 Atik460 and TEC140 Moravian8300 combos. Needs more data really for the widefield framework as its somewhat noisy outside the Cocoon. Thanks for looking Dave

That's in AstroArt..

Its in "Options".. "Filters" .."Add Pedastal"

Same for mine on individual subs but the Master Dark created from them is fine... If the minimum ADU in your darks is 163 then therein lies a problem as the minimum ADU on your Oxygen sub is 48.. so if you calibrate without a Pedastal there will be Black clipping ... I don't understand why your Dark minimum is so much higher than your Light minimum , the FITS header gives no clue as it doesn't show the Offset. Anyway here are two calibrations of the raw Oxygen sub.. the first using the Dark posted above with no Pedastal and the second using the same Dark but with a Pedastal of 250 (which gave a minimum value of 2)... No flats.... the second one looks pretty good to me and 9 hrs of that ought to give a cracking Master, clearly best to do with the matching Darks you are generating. Your filters are impressively clean - but best to use them because of the ASI1600's checkerboard pattern. HTHD Dave Dave

Probably both.. ie stacked flat stacked dark and single flat dark and flat dark

Dave .. if you post the relevant dark and flat and I’ll run it through Pixinsight Dave

The uncalibrated sub looks much better (apart from the amp glow).. So maybe a calibration issue, also your calibrated sub has lots of zeros.. do you use a Pedastal to prevent black clipping ? Here they are with PI screenstretch .. top one is calibrated