david_taurus83

Will you use it in alt/az mode? The EQ6R is a bit cheaper and makes more sense if it's in stock. Only reason I bought my AZEQ6 is because the other wasn't in stock. I'd say they both give reasonable performance.

A 150P on that mount is going to be a struggle. It's like a 200p on an EQ5.

A couple of years ago I had issues when I turned them off. The coords in EQMod would change after switching off and I had pointing issues. Was OK when I left them on. Was 3 years ago so later firmware updates may have fixed it.

Bin, for guiding sake, and just let BlurXterminator pull out the detail! 😁

The scale isn't inverted. It's because the AZGti mounts into the wedge the opposite side to the Star Adventurer so you invert the latitude. If you were to mount the Star Adventurer into the wedge I bet you would find you need to turn the wedge 180° on the tripod. If you were at latitude 45° it would make no difference!

I would flock the whole tube. Look how bright it is compared to the flocked bit behind the secondary. Also look how the primary has reflected the flash onto those screws. Obviously the flash has magnified the effect but still, a bright star could still provide some rogue photons to bounce around in there.

Sharpcap already has an optimum exposure calculator, if that's the sort of tool your talking about.

I don't think the USB ports on the camera are supposed to power dew straps. Mainly for filter wheel and guide camera, and even then they are flaky at best. Personally, I would power dew straps separately of the Air as well.

Sweet!

https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/340860-ngc7000-hoo-sho/?do=findComment&comment=3709232 "Done" he says, not quite! Been tidying up the laptops hard drive and while transferring data to an external drive I stumbled across the data for this. Given it was over 3 years ago, I decided to reprocess this and apply some new tricks (Yes, I did use that new tool). I didn't preprocess as I have mislaid the darks for the ASI1600 I had, so started off with the stacks I made at the time. Needless to say, its amazing what time and experience can achieve! I have always said that imaging is 25% capture, 75% processing, and I think this applies well here. I was very happy with the result 3 years ago, I'm more than happy with the reprocess! Also it goes to show that the ASI1600 was and still is a great camera and in competent and experienced hands it can still hold its own among the current range of cameras we have today. https://astrob.in/33f8ai/B/ 2019 version: Todays version with RGB stars captured at the time but not used in the above:

I have to say, even with the minor reflection, they are very nice images of the Horse and Flame.😀

It's not the cover. It's condensation. Found this out myself. Again, answers above solve it. I use a dew strap wrapped around the dec axis with heated side facing outwards left on 24/7. About 50% is fine.

Whilst stargazing?!

Also, have you installed both ASI Ascom driver and ASI camera driver?

Have you tried Sharpcap or ASIcap? Anything showing in device manager? Is it just the cameras that don't work?

Have you definitely got the latest ZWO camera driver installed? Have you tried with one camera first and see if it all connects? It's a known issue where PHD and imaging software conflict with camera selection especially if they are same brand. Are you connected through the Pegasus box or direct to the PC?

Processed this last night after, ahem, a "few" Christmas beers. It hasn't come out too bad! Just under 28 hours worth of SHO data. The SII and OIII were collected during those 2 cold nights we had a couple of weeks ago but the Ha was a real struggle. Collected under a bright moon and lots of passing clouds over 5 different nights, I had to throw out quite a lot but the stack pulled through in the end. Full details on the Astrobin page. https://astrob.in/x9ngya/0/

Nice capture! What equipment did you use for this?

These cables are designed to carry the signal over those distances and usually have a booster or repeater on the cable. They're not just 15m long USB cables. I think USB2 max length is 5m and USB3 is 2 or 3.

I thought the same with my M45 I processed yesterday but that's quite coarse pixel scale at over 3" per pixel. I tried with same Ha data I had already processed on the Tulip Nebula and yet to process Tadpoles. Its subtle but it does work. It even sharpens the dark dust so I don't think it's to do with SNR but more so on high contrast areas. These gifs probably aren't the best quality to showcase the changes, it looks better in PI but you get the idea. It's a very good deconvolution tool, much better than the PI deconvolution process. I've never gotten anything as good out of that. These gifs are BlurX applied directly to the native stacks of Ha data on each nebula.

Hmm yes I just seen that in the blurb though it only says IR cut. I might have to have a try without a filter myself.

Do you not use any filter at all? Not even an IR/UV filter? Do you not get bloated stars? Nice capture BTW, this is next on my list for the Redcat if we get a clear evening over the holidays!

I don't think USB3 cables either side of a hub will work well. As mentioned, they are contrary things and your devices may well spit their dummies out. 2 options I know to work well are CAT5 ethernet to USB2 extension which works very well up to 15m (Startech claim up to 50m but I've never needed that long). The downside here is you are limited to USB2 speeds so may not be ideal if you do planetary or solar imaging. The other is a good quality USB3 extender. I recently bought a Lindy 15m active USB3 repeater. Works great from my mount to the shed, no issues or connectivity problems. I had a quick look at the sun a couple of weeks ago with my ASI533MM and I was getting around 35fps whereas before with the Startech USB2 setup I was only getting 12/15fps. Not cheap at just over £100 now on Amazon but you get what you pay for. They can also be piggybacked if you needed more reach. https://www.lindy.co.uk/usb-c4/15m-usb-3-0-active-extension-pro-p10396

Thanks Stuart. No, I used BlurX in place of deconvolution after DBE. Normally would only try deconvolution on a mono image so it was an extra step with this. NoiseX came after before colour calibration. If your taking about the flaring on bright stars, I sometimes get this with the Redcat. I had similar artifacts a few years ago with an Altair 70mm quad as well and offset halos when using a filter. Myself and Emil swapped filters at the time to try out as he also had halos on his quad. We both concluded it was just a thing with these quad designs.

First light with all the ASI stuff. Wow! I can see why everyone raves about the ASIAir. Setup is very simple and it works really well with its own kit. Very pleased with it. Also the AM5 mount worked a treat. Guided under 0.8" RMS over the 2 good nights we had last week. I didn't have to throw a single sub. The 2600MC. Needs no introduction really. The single subs didn't look much better than what my 6D can produce, but put them all together? Different story completely. I didn't think it was possible to capture the faint stuff from my bortle 6 location. I'm going to enjoy this little setup I think. I jumped on the BlurX wagon with this, couldn't see much gains in the nebula (image scale is 3.1"pp) but the stars are sharpened and smaller. Not one for pixel peeping this one though its not intended as such. 140 x 120s subs gain 100 Optolong L-Pro filter