david_taurus83

The issue with both 183 and 1600 is they produce a lot of amp glow. The darks serve to remove that. With the newer IMX sensors there's no amp glow so it's questionable if darks are needed at all. After shooting a darks library anyway I can confirm the bias signal is around 2000ADU at 100 gain and 50 offset so this needs to be removed. I used a master bias for the short flats I took the other night and master dark for the lights. No issues with calibration. 12 x 300s each SHO gain 100 offset 50

The mottling is due to low signal (short integration) and me pushing up the saturation to bring some colour into the galaxy. A OSC camera won't fix this. You just need to collect more data. The stars look to me like the scope isn't collimated. There's nothing wrong with the camera. The diffraction pattern only really shows on very bright stars like Vega or Alnitak. I had a 1600MM. I sold it to go back to a DSLR. I now have a mono camera again and still have the 6D! I really think if you were to change anything it should be the scope for a refractor. Newts aren't an easy scope to master. You need to take special care to not allow any extra light from reaching the focuser tube. Not easy when it's so close to the front of the scope. This is why your probably struggling with flats. The only light that should be reaching the sensor should be what's reflected from the mirrors. A dew shield would help with keeping out stray light.

Here was my last calibration before I decided to strip it. Guiding was hit and miss, sometimes ok, even great but next evening could be rubbish without changing anything. I'm hoping for repeated reliability now.

I wouldn't beat yourself up too bad. Its nothing you've done wrong and there's nothing wrong with the kit. I download all your files (eventually!), chucked it all into Pixinsights WBPP script and let it do everything including stacking. Then I done background extraction on each channel, combined RGB, colour balanced, stretched, added Lum and some levels and curves. This looks like a difficult target tbf, very faint and you've only got 1.5 hours in Lum and 40 mins each of RGB. I would keep adding data if its still possible. IMO this hobby is 25% image acquisition and 75% processing.

After seeing @barkingsteve's first light initial results with this new camera, I decided to order one as have been mulling over it for a while since they were on pre-order but was waiting for somebody else to post up some images first. Thanks Steve! Also a tip of the hat to 365 Astronomy for the speedy next day delivery. Last night was clearish. With 3 hours of semi-darkness I decided to see if I could gather enough data for a complete image. I think the results speak for themselves. Very pleased even with so little data. Looks like this is going to be a popular camera. 12 x 300s each in Ha, OIII and SII, gain 100 and offset 50. Flats calibrated with a master bias and lights with a matching 300s master dark. Chucked everything into Pixinsights WBPP script and let it do everything including integration. Quick and dirty processing then to get some colour images. SHO HOO Ha stack with just a stretch. OIII SII

Proof is in the pudding, as they say. Moment of truth last night whether the bearing upgrade and work was worth it( @ONIKKINEN). I bought one of those Prologik balance meters to help get near perfect balance and tune out any remaining backlash in the worms (thanks @Glennbloke for the very helpful Youtube video). I initially thought the price of the meter was a bit expensive for what is basically an ammeter but I am happy to admit I was wrong. Very well built and very accurate! Made balancing and tuning backlash very easy, though time consuming as you need to make very minute adjustments. Spot the new camera First clear night here for a while last night as well. Initial PHD calibration, near perfect first time. Guiding results throughout the night. I'm very pleased! Who says mount tuning cant be done by us 'forum experts'? Don't send it off to be 'Hypertuned' for £££ Do it yourself for less and get better results!

Thanks. So same as the 1600. I might crank up the flat panel brightness and do short flats and use a master bias. Can't be dealing with different flat exposures and shooting flat darks for each filter again!

As titled really. I'm guessing I don't need to do darks at all. Do I still need to do a master bias or flat dark? Was a necessity with my 1600MM a few years ago. Would I get away with flats and lights? If I can't use a bias how do I calibrate the lights? What do 2600 users do?

Very similar in size to the Atik 460. Of course, a few teething issues to sort out.

For single subs, the low signal areas look very clean. Mine come today, can't wait to try it!

Will be the same as the Altair versions here in the UK. I guess TS are aiming at the EU Market with these.

Oh my, oh my! 7 x 5 mins! I'm sold. Ordering one now!

Have a look through the mount. The outer race is obscured by the mount casting so you'd probably just smash through the nylon cage! On 3 of mine, there maybe just, and I mean just enough of the outer race available on the inside to 'grab' with the flange on a blind bearing puller (those hammer type ones). If I was really determined I'd probably just pry the nylon cage out and the pins with a screwdriver and remove the outer race on its own. You destroy the bearings this way but you are replacing them anyway. Of course, you probably have fsr more experience than me at this sort of thing anyway!

I suspect those reflections are to do with the coma corrector. Which one is it? The Baader one is known for this, or an earlier version or something. That's an easy check though, remove it and try with no corrector. If the reflections go away then your expensive filters are OK. Regarding the PI. I use a Stellarmate for my mini portable setup. It has its quirks but it runs off a powerbank and if you know your way around Ekos then it's not hard to get going. Would I use it for my permanent pier setup? Not a chance. I bought a cheap mini PC off Amazon a few years ago with Win 10 Pro and it hasn't let me down once. Never crashed, switched off, failed to connect a device. Just works and its left on 24/7 in the shed and I control everything over VNC.

https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/384486-pier-time-today/?do=findComment&comment=4246975 What good timing! Literally just done it. I done all the thrust bearings and worm bearings. Those needle rollers in the casting, I didn't do those as they are not easily removed. I considered it but with the cost of a blind bearing puller which I don't have, and around £25 for each one (NK40/20TN SKF) I didn't think it was a cost effective upgrade as they won't offer any performance increase. You would need to destroy the bearing as well to remove it. Both axis turn on the thrust bearings so they are the ones to improve.

I use NINA now with my CCD but APT is better for DSLR's and beginners. I still can't fathom NINAs advanced sequencer.

I found Sheds Sheds Sheds lol http://www.shedshedsheds.co.uk/products/garden-buildings/garden-observatory/ Anyone used these?

I've seen something recently on one of the Facebook astro buy and selling pages where someone built a ROR and there was a price to it. As above, HOUK has been under a bit of pressure and there was a thread about it. Be worth searching for it..

I've just done my AZEQ6. Grabbed a tube of the stuff we put in the diggers at work. Lithium EP2. So far, better than the original. 20220524_203959.mp4

All put back together. Just waiting for a couple of upgraded belts and we're away. Those of you that have an AZEQ6 will know how stiff they are out of the box. When I first put my Redcat on there the Dec axis wouldn't even move with the clutch undone. Balancing should be much more intuitive now. That said, I haven't actually plugged it in yet to see if its still working and I haven't broke it lol 20220524_203959.mp4

You need to use darks with the 1600 regardless as dithering won't remove the amp glow. Have you tried to calibrate a light frame with a master dark to see if it removes the hot pixel/pixels?

Sometimes if it plays up you could try the ImageSolver script first and then run PCC. If that doesn't work just use the normal CC as they both align the channels pretty closely.

These came Friday but only had a spare hour or 2 this evening. Managed to get the RA put back together. I put less grease (purple lithium stuff) on the bearings and it certainly feels a bit looser when I spin the RA axis. Will see how it is loaded up. For forum search purposes: AZEQ6 bearing kit: Upper RA and Dec needle roller thrust bearings: AXK6590 SKF Needle Roller And Cage Thrust Assembly Bearing 65x90x3mm (2 no.) Upper RA and Dec needle roller thrust washers/raceway : AS6590 SKF Needle Thrust Washer 65x90x1mm (4 no.) Lower RA and Dec needle roller thrust bearings : AXK4060 SKF Needle Roller And Cage Thrust Assembly Bearing 40x60x3mm (2 no.) Lower RA and Dec needle roller thrust washers/raceway : AS4060 SKF Needle Thrust Washer 40x60x1mm (4 no.) RA and Dec worm bearings : 608-2RSH SKF Sealed Deep Groove Ball Bearing 8x22x7mm (4 no.)

You could buy both the QHY colour and mono versions for £50 more!

Ouch. I wasn't even close.