TareqPhoto

And many are commenting about wives who are preventing husbands from buying more gear, lol

Ok, nice, great to know that, but are there any size limitation or restrictions about it? Some files are above 1mb anyway

Results are telling the trust as long there are no much deeper processing to fix filters issues, i am not looking for doing extra time to fix the halo from filters, my Astrodon Ha doesn't create any halo, even if there is it is very minimal that i can neglect, while with my Optolong Halo is always there with bright stars in many targets, even with M42 target.

I liked that version also, my best so far. Well, all the images are in PNG format, so high file sizes, i made them for Facebook, and i know in forums they don't accept or like those large file sizes or PNG format, if you like you can download them and convert them to JPEG and upload them again in my subject, so edit it with images shown this time, let's say you correct my thread, i don't mind that at all, and sorry for using external links, using same images for all places making it more difficult really, and i am mostly showing my images on Facebook so that i use PNG, someone said PNG is the best format as it won't affect quality as many JPEG are affected after uploading on Facebook.

Ok, my situation or reason is different then, but i hope to see more of that Baader Ultra Narrowbanding results, i don't mind 36mm sizes, otherwise Astronomik is an alternative, i do use Optolong, but the more i use it the more i hate it, the only reason i can keep it is if i will use lenses at F2 up to F4.

I hope to see more members buying Baader filters of 3.5nm/4.5nm instead of Astronomik 6nm, i want to see how good or bad those filters as i can't afford Astrodon 36mm sizes, i already bought 1.25" sizes, but then i read all the issues about vignetting, so i think either i use cheaper 36mm filters with their own issues or accept vignetting using high quality filters, not sure what will you choose between those two.

The main reasons about mono vs. OSC is about the location really, as under light pollution the majority will say that the mono will win here better than a color, while in dark sites both can be identical, and still the mono will have the edge for results mainly narrowbanding, so it is up to you as where do you live exactly, and for me i look at it as the following theory: Mono cooled = dark sites + LP sites Color cooled = dark sites, not much for LP sites even it is possible So, if you really want the best out of two world of mono and color and full control then go with mono and learn the long exposures, all the fun is there

Hi all, I did the Rosette finally as it is almost officially my first best DSO result with colors now, and i can build my next results according to that, it wasn't easy, but i challenged all kind of issues, still not that great, but i can be happy for that anyway, not sure how far i can go from that as i keep trying to improve my gear before i try to improve my imaging results. As you can see, my processing isn't that good, i tried not spend that much long in processing as i do with imaging, but hopefully one day when i can get better data by myself then i will spend better time and learn processing steps better, i won't waste time on processing with not good or so so RAW data really, so i need time. Equipment details: Canon EF 300mm 2.8IS, QHY163M, AZ-EQ6, Optolong Ha/OIII/SII filters, QHY guide scope and QHY5L2m camera, 300sec/600sec exposures.

Light pollution? I don't know what i have to say because i am in light pollution area myself, and i keep testing or experimenting with DSO targets with NB filters only mainly nebulae, i tried very few times with LRGB on M42 and M45, but that time i wasn't good in imaging, wasn't good results actually, so i hope one day soon i hope very soon really i can try LRGB again under my sky to see how bad it is really, and i assume DSLR isn't so much far from LRGB with mono although with a mono camera i have 2 main advantages, one is the sensitivity, and two the cooling as long i chose the cooled version anyway.

What is Samyang mod?

Very nice results! So, which camera did you use for those? and at what F number did you use the lens?

Yesterday was cloudy, but i was in rush to test the adapters i received, and i only tested the adapter for Canon lens connection [with ZWO filter wheel], but i failed, because i thought it should be 55mm, but i found out that it must be 44mm actually, so i ended up to remove the filter wheel and place the filter on the sensor window, but vignetting is there anyway i think [or maybe that what i think]. The sky condition wasn't good, because we all know the enemy number 1 for all astrophotographers in the world, but i didn't stop, the sky was really clear if the enemy is moving away, and with the moon nearly full, and under Bortle 8/9 sky, what can you expect after all? The only good thing from last night is that finally i managed to use guiding, so almost officially that was the first night i used guiding with, but i have to build my next plans or projects on that now, so we will see what will be next targets results. Rosette Nebula 12 Dec 2019 Canon EF 300mm F/2.8L IS @ F/4 QHY163M + Astrodon Ha 5nm [1.25"] Skywatcher AZ-EQ6 Ha = 7 x 300 sec [because of clouds many frames were remvoed, even few are still included in those 7 frames anyway 😞 ], Gain 200 Offset 21 @ -10C SGPro, PixInsight, Photoshop

WOW, excellent, i didn't know about those, sounds the second one is the one, thank you very much 😊

Honestly speaking, my LP filter causing one main issue that made me to remove it, HALO reflection, i really don't know why, maybe because i placed it in wrong place withing imaging setup, i really don't know where it should be placed then, in fact it caused that reflection even when i used Ha filter on a target, Horsehead nebula, so Al-Nitak looked like it was out from a big lunch/dinner invitation.

Well, i think because of LP maybe i need to go longer, because i shoot mono, and i don't see any nebulosity with any filter of LRGB, and i did see amazing result with L filter alone, so i think maybe maybe i have to try again for longer exposures and more subs, not sure if for example 2 hours with let's say 60sec or 120sec can do the job, in fact i want to try with one filter only either L or blue to see if i can manage to get nebulosity, and i do use PixInsight and i stretch, but i feel i still didn't get anything there, but i will give my old data another try or i try to have new data. M42 is easy in my area even with LP, sure the dynamic range is tricky, but i already know about that, multiple exposures and it is done, but i feel confused why i am able to capture a nebula emission or not better or easier than clusters such as this Pleiades? in fact even in some top quality images i can see lots of dust in the region, even that i couldn't get while i did get dust in Orion, but to be honest my tests for Pleiades were all old, i think last year and beginning of this year and i stopped DSO, now i have better idea about how to image and adding guiding soon and also PI more practice i may yield better results of Pleiades, in fact i still try to find from anywhere someone did M45 with mono camera under Bortle 9 sky, not Bortle 6 or 7 which is still good enough than 8 and 9.

I can't remember now, but mostly i try to have something like 10-20 frames, maybe i tried once for 40 frames of those short exposures, but i will consider that as failed experiments maybe and i will start over or try again with longer exposure a bit that is allowed and more subs, so like how much total integration time is sufficient under this Bortle sky?

This is very nice thread, i liked the results here from this lens. Unfortunetly i have 135mm lens but from Canon itself, not Samyang or Rokinon, and i keep trying to find a suitable ring to attach for this lens and then mount it, i did buy that ZWO adapter ring they have for ASI1600mm which is 78mm i think, i tried that ring on my QHY163M and it wasn't tight enough, need like 1mm less, something like 77mm i think will be fine, or even 76mm and it will tight it perfectly, with an adapter on camera i can mount any Canon lens then, while if i go with lens then i will need many adapter rings at different sizes, so hopefully i can find something for 135mm Canon lens or QHY163M camera[76-77mm].

I have a cable from this brand but for AZ-EQ6, it is working perfect and flawless, i bought two separately in period, one is 2m and the other is 5m just in case, you can give it a try. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/astronomy-cables-leads-accessories/lynx-astro-ftdi-eqdir-usb-adapter-for-sky-watcher-eq6-or-neq6-syntrek-pro-mounts.html

Ok, then one day if i am lucky and i bought that SII then i hope i can get your Ha and OIII data so i can add my SII data and see how the Hubble Palette will look like, if you wouldn't mind, i just try to wait and see when i can get that SII because i want also to get LRGB, can't buy both at once and very soon, or i wish if i can sell my Optolong filters then i will start to sell my SII [36mm size] and replace it with something better.

Well, i will forget about M42, but for M45, i keep shooting it and i could never get any nebulosity or dust from it, so i don't know what is wrong, i live in Bortle 8-9, but the sky at night late is really very nice and clear and less LP as i can see, but something wrong that prevent me from getting any nebolusity of Pleiades, even with stacking, but maybe because my exposures are short between 30sec and 1min subs, but i will never give up, if some managed to get that under bad LP sometimes then i think i can do something about it also one day

My LP here is almost mixed but the dominance as i can see is LED, so the only filter i read all around that may can help a bit for LED is IDAS D2, so that i bought that filter but only in 2" so i can place it over all the filters, but it caused bad reflections for all filters, just i need to try it again more as it caused that when i used my Canon 300mm, but maybe i should mount it on flattener or corrector or reducer to have a better performance, as i placed that filter inside the adapter connection of EOS to filter wheel not on anything else, otherwise i should buy another LP filter at size 1.25" cheaper than IDAS to be in that 8th slot inside filter wheel [ i was planning to use that for NII actually in future].

Those kind of images is what making us to dream about Tak FSQ scopes, i know many will see not necessary and can go with something like Esprit or WO or Stellarvue and such, but a Japanese scope has a reputation and quality, in fact all Chinese scopes and even some Europeans are compared to those big name or high quality ones such as AP and Tak and in same class, so i feel like why i go with top quality Chinese if there is something better anyway if can afford. You don't have SII filter to add to this? Can we have SHO Hubble Palette with only Ha/OIII filters?

I have a light pollution filter, it helped little but the problem is with the reflection it causes, so maybe i will try again different way if possible adding the filter, just for now i am trying to use all filters without any LP filters added, i also live under light polluted sky, just by late night it gets better dark so that is my moment actually.

So there is no AstroLO to try then?!!! Nice to read your comments, time is precious, i got that, but sometimes we don't count those times where we feel we don't have anything good at it or wasted times, if i have no plan really until January then i am not sure if those days are really worthy, in fact i can't even drive out of my house due to my car case, so it sounds i will just relax in bed and read sites until January to start over again.

hahaha, ok, no need to rush then 🙂 I looked at that filter wheel, really very expensive for other options, so i don't want to get that to find out it won't make any better, i mean with QHY filter wheel they do have short adapter i can put on the camera and then use screws to connect the filter wheel from inside and that will minimize the distance a lot, not sure with this Starlight it will reduce the distance a bit.