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Everything posted by Chefgage
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On my next image processing I am going to try your formula definitely. I am keen to see the difference.
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I need to try that. The way I have been doing it is to just do starless+stars. Or sometimes I do starless+(0.6*stars) I did think that for a sophisticated piece of software my formula was a bit basic
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One of the reasons for me is that when using two dew heaters that would draw too much current which would sometimes disconnect my camera from the asiair. As the Pegasus box has dedicated dew connections that also control the dew heaters based on temperature and humidity this means they are not on all the time. So for me that was a requirement.
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Sorry, that wasn't as clear as I had hoped. No, I still use the asiair pro but this is now powered off the powerbox along with 2 dew heaters and the heq5 pro mount. So basically I have a jump start kit that powers the power box which powers the asiair, dew heaters, heq5 mount etc.. Making the whole setup portable, i.e. not mains powered.
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I used to use three different types of batteries. One for the mount, one for camera and one for asiair pro. The dew heaters were usb type powered between two of the batteries that had usb ports. I then got of that and got the Pegasus powerbox you have linked to. This is perfect as it powers everything. The dew heaters only come on when needed due to the power box controlling them. I power the power box from a car jump start battery system that has a 12v cigarette type socket on it.
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I have pretty much the same one just a different brand. One thing about them is the batteries. I have had mine a few years now and it's still using the same battery.
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What's this?!
Chefgage replied to Pitch Black Skies's topic in Getting Started Equipment Help and Advice
Looks like a giant spider. Best to treat it with fire, lots of fire But seriously the that does look very strange?? -
419 hours??
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Capture information HEQ5 Pro mount Skywatcher 72ED Refractor ASIAIR pro ASI294mc-pro colour camera Optolong L-Enhance filter ZWO ASI120mm mini guide scope Gain 120 EXP 180s Lights 76 (over two nights 60 and 16) Darks 20 Flats 20 Flat Darks 20 Total exposure time 3 hours 48 minutes minutes Moon below horizon I have not processed data collected over more than one night before. I have the means to do this now so I can collect more and more data (well i can when the clouds disappear). Stacked in DSS and processed in Pixinsight. Included is the starless version and the image with stars that I have dimmed down using pixelmath.
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If the mount allows it then no you do not need to do a meridian flip as long as nothing is getting snagged or trapped/hit. An example is last night. I was imaging the rosette nebula with a heq5 pro and 72 ed refractor. As this target is low in the sky I was able to image 2 hours past the meridian.
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It started to get a bit windy here as well towards the end of the session. Hopefully this has not effected the images.
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Very nice image. I was out last night myself imaging the rosette with my 72 ed. This could be a plan for this afternoon to do a bit of processing
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Sounds good. Out of interest what parts are you updating?
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Mine arrived a couple of weeks ago. Quite impressed with it. Printed off a couple of astronomy related things along with many test pieces as well.
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NGC2264 - Cone Nebula from windy London
Chefgage replied to Daniel Karl's topic in Imaging - Deep Sky
Loverly image. I admire your bravery taking the scope out in these windy conditions -
DSS alternatives
Chefgage replied to shropshire lad's topic in Imaging - Tips, Tricks and Techniques
Any reason for not wanting to use DSS? -
Just re-read your reply regards distance. I believe I have the correct distance (although I don't mind being corrected). Going by the documentation and adapters that came with the camera I do believe I have the correct distance. There seems to be a common thing in my imaging train and two different cameras. That's why I put it down to tilt. I do need to address it definitely. As I find myself cropping quite a bit.
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I am using a OVL flattener (no reducer). Yes I know what you mean. I think I am suffering from tilt as I had the same issue using the same image train with my DSLR. I remember a post from Vlaiv on this site about pushing in the image train into the scope part and then doing up the thumb screws which might help a bit. I have not got round to trying this. I do have an adapter that is screw threaded so it does away with the skywatcher 72ed thumb screw connection. But the issue with this is I cannot then rotate my camera for framing.
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Orion again! Well it is that time of year Capture information HEQ5 Pro mount Skywatcher 72ED Refractor ASIAIR pro ASI294mc-pro colour camera Optolong L-Enhance filter ZWO ASI120mm mini guide scope Gain 120 EXP 180s Lights 53 Darks 20 Flats 20 Flat Darks 20 Total exposure time 2 hours 39 minutes minutes Moon distance from target 30° 20' 25" This is a work in progress. I hope to get another couple of hours on this target before it disappears till later in the year. Moon was 71.4% illuminated. Gone for a subtler colours this time. I tend to over do the pinks in this image.
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I have the same camera. Is this issue just with the L-extreme or does it extend to the L-enhance as well? I ask as I don't seem to have a problem with flats using the L-enhance and the asiair setting the exposure time in auto mode.
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Thought I would put the 3d printer to good use. I have a skywatcher 72ED and as some of you may know the design of the scope cap is not the best. It's a metal cap that you screw into the scope end, so you have metal aluminium threads making little flecks of metal that end up on the lens if your not careful. So I thought I would print off a scope cap and a bahtinov mask as well while I was at it (both designs not mine). The more I think of it I think I am going to reprint them in a green filament so it matches the green dovetail
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Grey Blobs When Using Reducer/Flattener - Dust?
Chefgage replied to Sabalias's topic in Getting Started With Imaging
I have the exact same issue. Never saw them with my 72ed refractor, ovl flattener, DSLR and filter combination. Now I use a astro cooled camera with a UV/IR cut filter and the same ovl and 72ed refractor and now get the big blobs over my subs. So I assume it's dust on either the new camera or filter or both. But flats take care of it so they don't appear on my final image. -
Framing on a different night with asiair pro
Chefgage replied to Chefgage's topic in Getting Started With Imaging
I agree. It's only this year that I have started to add data to previous sessions. -
Framing on a different night with asiair pro
Chefgage replied to Chefgage's topic in Getting Started With Imaging
Yes that makes sense. Only issue I might have is where the target only just fits in the field of view at an angle.