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PadrePeace

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  1. I’ve made something similar to AdamJ but without his bells and whistles. I have the same battery with spade connectors and I’ve made a terminal cover strap out of sticky backed Velcro which can be peeled on and off as required. The power box has a battery monitor and an output of volts and amps. It’s switched and the output is fused at 5 amps. The power output travels by a silicon lead up to a power splitter box mounted on top of the scope to power, camera, focuser, mount, and two dew heaters through an adjustable power output box when needed. All tidy and light weight ready for travel.
  2. You say you leave all the gear intact when you store it in between imaging sessions. I assume, because you have not been that clear, that the optical path from scope lenses to camera is not broken down at all for storage? If this is not the case then I’d say either something has got inside the optical path and is disrupting it, but as you have offered no images this is pure guess work, or you have left out an adaptor and the back focus is now incorrect. I have the same scope and it has a well engineered focuser and rack pinion mechanism. It’s so simple that inless the gears have stripped stooping the focus set from moving it must be a BF error. Please elaborate with images and a clear indication of how you store the scope with or without the camera or we are all fishing in the dark on your behalf.
  3. It’s the small stuff that usually catches us out. Hope that fixes it for you. Clear skies.
  4. That’s fine. I just wanted to check that the PA wasn’t the issue.
  5. Have you polar aligned any other mount successfully in the past or is this your first go with an EQ setup? I ask because there are a few things that can go wrong in the PA especially if you are doing it by eye through the polar scope. I’m just making sure the basics are good rather than assuming that the PA is as you say ‘good’. How, in detail, are you Polar Aligning the mount?
  6. Would be interested in a review of the HEM15 if you can manage that?
  7. I have the exact same rig but must have missed that one clear spell. Great image, especially impressed with how well you have controlled those big stars.
  8. I’m with you AdamJ. Other than a moveable counterweight I cannot see the point. Personally I’d just drop a telescope leg a tad.
  9. He’s what I get on the L Extreme though a ASKAR FMA180 on my ZWO294MC: hope this helps:
  10. This is a truely amazing image and easily the best one I have seen of this target by some measure. It is especially impressive because of the skill you have shown getting this quality out of a sub £350 scope. I recall the work you did with your SW 130 PDS on the Heart nebula which was equally breathtaking. This just goes to show that you don’t need to spend a fortune to get top drawer images. Thanks for sharing AdamJ. Something to aspire toward ……
  11. I don’t think you’d have clear skies either given the forecast. ☁️☁️☁️☁️☁️
  12. If you can get out to the east of Lincoln there are Bortle 4 areas (the greener the better) but you’ll have to do a bit of Google Map searching for an exact spot within that class as shown in the attached. You’ll be looking at a 30mins drive or so. hope this helps….the LP app is free by the way and you can zoom right in to find a site.
  13. I took this image of the Cygnus Wall in the N. America nebula complex using NB SHO filters. Pleased with the final product but was surprised how prominent the small red (SII) nebula was in the final stretch. So What? My question to you guys is what is this nebula called as I cannot find details and also why is it not as defined in the large majority of other shots I have viewed of this area? Indeed, it hardly exists in many renditions, or is swallowed in a big black void which seems odd as I didn’t work it’s data that hard. Taken through a 107/700 scope on an Atik 460EX; 600s exp bin 1x1. Integration: SHO each at 10hrs for 30hrs total. thanks for your comment and clear skies.
  14. I have a 294MC which works a treat with the L-Extreme at 200 gain. Tried lots of things at 120g and it simply would not calibrate. All on a thread in this forum if you need detail.
  15. That sensor is very sensitive in the IR as its sales pitch outlines. Use it without if you are doing planetary stuff with Saturn Jupiter etc as it will pick out the IR emissions in those objects well. Plenty of help for that aspect on the Tube and other forums if you want to have a go. It will change output colours as already mentioned here. Otherwise strap a filter on and forget it. A filter will sharpen stars if you use the sensor for guiding or deep sky objects as I have. see attached. clear skies….
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