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About Chefgage

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    Star Forming

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  1. Sort of figured it out. You can change the field rotation angle so this achieves what I was after doing.
  2. Thanks for that, I did not look now that option was there by tapping top left. Unfortunately it has not helped though. It's as though I could do with the camera rectangle staying still and then spin the sky or the other way round.
  3. I currently use sky safari a lot when planning my imaging sessions. One thing I like to do is to be able to show the field of view of my DSLR for a given lens size. This way I can see if the object will fit in that field of view. I have it all set up showing the fields of view of all my lenses, telescope eye pieces and binos. So I can just pick and choose which one I want. The problem is as you move the 'sky' around you cannot seem to be able to line both the constellation and the field of view rectangle. Is there a way to turn of the auto rotation of the sky so you can line them up (there is an auto rotate option but that does not do what I am describing). An example of the best I can line them up is shown. Trying to see if Ursa minor will fit in my selected field of view.
  4. I have an 8mm one I am looking to sell. It's only been used once so it it is in perfect condition (has the box, rubber eye guards, leather pouch etc.. ). Looking for £50. As this is in the UK I would have to look into postage to Italy.
  5. Sounds like me. I have the 200p which I have also owned for quite some time. It has not been used much lately as I just don't seem to have the patience with visual astronomy any more. But after getting the star adventurer and a 72ed telescope, astrophotography is the way forward for me.
  6. Ah, so I can blame you then for the cloud seeing as you have just bought some astro gear Seriously though it's a great bit of kit. How are you planning on imaging with it? Camera lens or telescope or a bit of both?
  7. There are some good YouTube videos on workflows for gimp. Even with a quick 5 minutes of processing your stacked image it's surprising how much detail gimp can bring out.
  8. Have a try with the GIMP software. It's free and gives you a good idea/practice at processing your images.
  9. Don't expect a massive improvement of the image after stacking. Mine often look worse (image is a lot darker, detail lost). But this is why you then process the image using what ever software you use (gimp for instance). Which then brings out all the detail.
  10. This drives me a bit mad when using my 75mm to300mm lens. You only have to look at it and the focus changes. I have read about using a wide rubber band over the focusing ring so it makes it more difficult to move, so that should help. Also using a bit of blu tack (but I would have thought as you apply the blu tack you run the risk of altering the focus). The rubber band idea seemed best to me but I have yet to try it.
  11. What kind of processing of the pictures have you done after stacking them? It's a bit difficult to advise as you have posted the raw file in the first link. The last link you posted I am not sure what that's supposed to be? If you post the actual picture in say JPEG format it would help.
  12. Thanks for sharing that great memory (even if the police did drink your coffee).
  13. Depending on what you are doing (astrophotography for example) to accurately align to polaris, Polaris needs to be off centre in the polar scope. So yes using an app is a good idea to show where abouts Polaris needs to be on the clock face.
  14. I presume you are looking through a polar scope? If so then use the star adventurer mini console. When loaded up, use the polar clock utility to show where Polaris needs to be in your polar scope (you need to put your location into the app).
  15. M44 The Beehive Cluster taken on the 19-04-2020 60 lights and 10 darks. Lights were iso 800 and 60 seconds exposure. Taken with a 75mm to 300mm lens at 200mm on a Canon 200D mounted on a star adventurer pro.
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