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About Chefgage

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    Star Forming

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  1. I align my finderscope and telescope in the daytime ( make sure it is pointing no where near the sun). I have a church spire about a 1/4 mile away which is the furthest point i can see from my house. So with the 20mm eye piece inserted i center this spire in the telescope eye piece. I then adjust the finderscope using the adjuster screws so the spire is the centet of the finderscope. The next thing to do is to make it a bit more accurate by then using a higher power eye piece such as a 4mm (or whatever came with the scope). Center the spire in the telescope 4mm eye piece and again center the spire in the finderscope. Providing you do not knock the finderscope before it gets dark whatever you see in the finderscope will be centered in the telescope eye piece. Think about getting a rigel quick finder as well. That way you can use all three to find your targets. Makes the process a lot easier.
  2. I did try this with quite good success. I was able to find a good amount of objects using it. I seem to think i attached it using a phone adapter for taking pictures through the eye piece (with it moved to the side so you can still see through the eye piece). I think this is how i did it. I started a thread about another way of creating a push to system using an inclinometer and a encoder. See this link for the info https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/296417-modifications-to-my-200p-dobsonian/
  3. Thanks for that. I agree something does not seen right in my explantion. In the end i thought just by a suitble eyepiece and try it. Well the eyepiece has been delivered today so i can now make the comparison.
  4. Jupiter and mars look best on that graph. Nice steep climb over the next two or three years.
  5. Sorry about the title, i could not think how to word it better. Let me just set the scene. I am photgraphing jupiter by taking a video of it on my canon 200d. I am using the camera and telescope in the prime focus method. My telescope is a skywatcher 200p which has a focal length of 1200mm. Jupiter takes 1.5 minutes to cross the cameras sensor (1.5 minutes across the live view screen). Now the question is if i use an eyepiece with the camera and telescope in the eyepiece projection method how does this affect the time it takes jupiter to move across the field of view. If my maths is correct then if i use an 8mm eyepiece with an apparent FOV of 68 degrees then this will have a true FOV of 0.45 degrees with my telescope focal length of 1200mm. So jupiter should move across the FOV in 1.8 minutes. I got the 1.8 minutes from the stars and planets moving across the sky due to earth rotation in 0.25 degrees per minute. So 0.45/0.25 = 1.8 So by adding the camera does this affect the 1.8 minutes due to the sensor size of the camera. Does that make sense
  6. Been trying to get decent pictures of jupiter lately. So the eyepiece will be mostly used for that and saturn. I too have a F6 8" dobsonian. I have a few bst starguider eyepieces. I use the 8mm one if i am looking at jupiter. I was just wondering if going to that magnification with the attached dslr would be ok.
  7. Thanks for that. I am now just trying to figure out what size to get, so many to choose from
  8. Just been looking at the Baader Hyperions as they are in my price range. Any recomendations on what size to get?
  9. Thanks for the info. I will look into it. Got a few pennies set aside for some new astro gear
  10. I was sat on the floor last night with my eyepieces, barlows, t adapter with built in barlow and other t adapters. I had them all in bits trying to come up with a combination that would suit my needs . I will have a look at the two eyepieces you suggested. Thank for that.
  11. Hello all. Can anyone recomend an eyepiece or two that would be suitable for eyepiece projection. I currently just do the usual prime focus with my dslr, but fancy including eyeprojection into my photography sessions. My current selection of eyepieces do not have the removable eye cups to reveal a threaded part. Thanks.
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