Chefgage

Never mind ignore me I was brave and restarted the app whilst the autorun was in progress. That has fixed it.

Strange one this. I am currently doing an autorun. Usually after each image is taken it will load the image and preview it and during the image capture it will show a count down timer on the right. However during this session I only get the count down timer if I press the little image icon on the right which takes you to the saved image folders. If I then go back to the main screen I get the count down timer but after the image is taken it does not load it so I can see it. This has only just started happening this session. It was ok a couple of weeks ago. I can view the images it is taking by going into the image folders but normally it loads each image into the preview window during the autorun which is handy as you can keep an eye on the progress. Any ideas why this is happening??

Good point. The moon does not fit in the FOV of the asi120mm mini using my ed72 focal length 420mm. Whereas it does fit in the FOV with the DSLR. As far as I am aware my canon 200d does not allow the live view video mode. Overall it's not really an issue as my main focus is DSO imaging. But I am thinking of maybe doing some lunar imaging in between. I have taken some really nice lunar images just using my DSLR taking just a single image. I suppose I may just have to experiment and see what I get, or maybe a few new spends are on the cards??

I use my asi120mm mini as a guide cam the same as you. I have imaged the moon using my DSLR just taking a single shot. I think at the time I got lucky with seeing/conditions as the image taken with no processing came out exceptionally clear and detailed. But I am wondering if this was just a one off. So I am keen to try the asi120mm.

Thanks for that. It's not something I have done lunar imaging. I do DSO imaging but the amount of times that I have not imaged due to the moon makes me think why not go out and make use of the clear skies (being that the clear skies are not exactly frequent).

Thanks for the reply. I was planning of trying both but I was trying to get my head round the science/theory behind it Tonight's looking good so I will give it a try.

Quick question (possibly). I have a canon DSLR which has a resolution of 6288x4056 and in video mode is 1920x1080 at 60fps. I also have a asi120mm mini which has a resolution of 1280x960 at 35fps. My question is which is better for lunar imaging when using the canon in video mode. My understanding is although the DSLR has a higher resolution and frame rate (in video mode) than the asi120mm, the fact is the DSLR is downsampling from the resolution of 6288x4056 which means it makes it worse than the asi120mm. Is this correct. So even with a smaller resolution, the asi120mm is the better option.

The issue I would say in trying to create a flat library is that the flat needs to be taken with the same focas and camera orientation as the lights. So getting this exactly the same each session is unlikely. So best to take a set of flats each session.

Had a search on here but could not see the answer. I took a set of data earlier in the year and processed it. Very happy with the result. This was data taken with a modified DSLR and samyang lens, no filters. I now want to add Ha data to it using my Ha filter. Question is do I need to match the exposure time for the Ha with that of the DSLR data. I just took 180s exposures with the dlsr (no filter). Could I go longer with the Ha? The Ha will obviously be stacked separately and then blended in PI with the existing image.

Not my Sky at night magazine. Should have been here on Tuesday if my sky at night calender is to be believed. Has anyone else received their October issue yet???

A quick way I do it which gives a good result is to use starnett++ When I use my samyang 135mm f2 lens I get a sea of stars which drown out the nebula. I know it seems a bit daft to then reduce the amount of stars but for artistic reasons sometimes it is what I will do. Basically i take my near finished image. Run starnet so I end up with an image without the stars and an image of just the stars. I then process the star image using say levels to basically clip a lot of the data so quite a few of the stars disappear. I then combine the two images to get an image with less stars.

I always see the alien when I see this target A bit like I always see Deadpool in the Pelican nebula!! Although me and my daughter don't see a pelican, we see an elephant or a penguin.

That's a really nice image. I myself took a set of images using the 135mm samyang of the same target as you. I agree with the 'not trying to sound smug'. I too was very impressed with the image it produced. I took mine in a bortle 3 sky whilst on holiday. My usual sky is bortle 8, hence why I am now buying extra lottery tickets so I can move down there!!

I was imaging down in devon last year. we was camped next to a small pond. During the night as I was imaging there was a couple of bats that were flying around us. Had to to duck a couple of times!!!

Thank you for that reply. I did put out water during the last hot spell, but I will make sure I keep on putting some water out.

This one has been visiting regularly in my back garden, there are two others that wonder around the front garden.

Nice! What most amazes me is people getting 10 minute subs

Finished the imaging session early hours of this morning and when turning the garden light back on to aid in the storage of the equipment I came across this little night watchman.

I do like the effect. A while ago I was researching a filter that could do this. I came across the tiffen fog 3 filter which claims to emphasize the brighter stars and creating a fog like effect everywhere else. From the images I have seen using the filter it looks promising but I have not tried it yet. Seeing your image has made me think I really do need to try the tiffen filter.

I would be tempted to loosen the clutches first and manually move it. That way you might pick up any potential problems before powering it up. Should be ok though if it has been properly stored like you have done.

Although I do intend on obtaining some sort of ring setup I have just been using the 135mm lens connect just to the DSLR. So the DSLR is fitted on a dovetail but the samyang lens is just connected like a normal lens. I have not noticed any issues regards tilt etc when using it like this. Not ideal but it does work.

I have found that yes, dithering helps reduce noise when using a dslr but certainly not removing trails from satellites and planes (not sure why it is mentioned in that quote). I can only guessthat by having less noise the stacking software has an easier time removing the trails. Although i never delete any image with trails and dss removes them wether i dithered or not.

Dithering will not get rid of satellite/plane trails though. The dithering is done between each image so the satellite/plane trail will still be there. Stacking software such as DSS can effectively remove them though using the kappa sigma stacking lime has been mentioned above.

Very nice! Shows what a full frame sensor can produce compared to my smaller sensor using the canon 200d. I have shot the same image using the samyang 135mm and my field of view is smaller (but very happy with the result,).

Thanks. I had a problem in that as it was such a dark sky there was too many stars (should i be complaining ). Anyway to combat this i tried using starnet++ in pixinsight to create a starless image. Then the stars image i just dragged over the slider in the histogram transformation. Then using pixel math, combined the images. Seemed to work ok.