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Chefgage

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Everything posted by Chefgage

  1. I get the same with my canon 75mm to 300mm lens (it's the EF 4-5.6 version). This got a lot worse when I modified the camera (lots of red halos). The issue goes away when a telescope is used instead of the lens. From what I have read it's common with cheaper lenses.
  2. Very nice images. Well worth the drive to the cottage.
  3. Excellent image. I am looking forward to using my Ha filter a lot more in the coming months.
  4. You can guide with the star adventurer.
  5. M31 using the star adventurer, Canon 200D with CLS light pollution filter and Skywatcher 72ED. Lights 102 Darks 20 Bias 50 ISO 1600 Exposure 50 seconds.
  6. A good starting point would indeed be the star adventurer on a good solid tripod. Check out the star adventurer thread for examples of what can be done using it.
  7. My first go at M31 was taken from a bortle 3 or 4 sky while we were away camping. This one is from my house which is in a bortle 8 ish sky. Lights 102 Darks 20 Bias 50 ISO 1600, Exposure 50 seconds. Taken using a Canon 200D with CLS light pollution filter, Star adventurer pro mount and Skywatcher 72ED telescope. Stacked in DSS and processed using GIMP.
  8. Stunning image. I am just about to post my M31, not quite in the same league as yours
  9. It was a quick turn around as well. Sent it on the Thursday and it was back on the Wednesday 6 days later.
  10. Just had my Canon modified by Astronomiser a couple of months ago.
  11. Any guiding being used. Interested as I use basically the same setup but start to get star trails at about 45 seconds or more. This is with good polar alignment.
  12. Even with your 8mm eyepiece and good seeing conditions Jupiter will only be as big as what you see in the attached photo. Unfortunately expectation versus reality is often not good in astronomy. The link above showing the thread of what to expect is a very good read. The problem is that images you see of planets are not really what you will see at the scope eyepiece. But, spend lots of time looking at say Jupiter. After a good few minutes if seeing conditions are good then it's surprising what you start to see. The longer you look the more detail seems to come through. You start to see details even though the image is small.
  13. Me personally if they are offering a full refund I would go with that. You bought a scope new which should arrive fully working and in new condition. Unless they refund some of the cost and then send you a repaired scope then maybe that would be ok. I would not accept a another scope unless it was a brand new one but like what has been said you might just get one that has been previously returned by someone so not strictly new.
  14. I find a good tool to use to quickly look through say 120 light frames looking for any not so good ones.
  15. I don't bother jotting anything down. For my canon the camera creates a small file that I export off the SD card along with all the lights, darks bias etc. On the pc you can then right click on each one to see the details which will show if it's one of your lights, darks etc. As you will take all your lights together, then your darks etc. They will all be grouped together anyway. Then I use Adobe bridge 'free down load' to go through each one. Adobe bridge is good as it shows all the details of each picture (iso, exp etc).
  16. Take a look at this YouTube video. The poster uses GIMP to process but the same will apply if you are using Photoshop.
  17. Post up your processed M31 for us to have a look
  18. I have just been watching Nico's videos. Came across a point in GIMP that helps subtract light pollution after aggressive stretching that looks helpfull.
  19. As above, I also did not have a problem achieving focus with my Canon 200D DSLR connected directly to the 200p telescope.
  20. The first point to make is you should be shooting raw images to stack.
  21. I had a quick look. The thing that bothers me with this tracking mount is the polar scope. It just uses a green laser to align to polaris ( pointing a laser into the sky is never a good idea, could land you in trouble with the law). It does not use a traditional polar scope. It says it gives an accurate alignment to polar using this laser pointer. But I am a bit sceptical about this. For the money they charge for this mount I think you would be better looking at something like a star adventurer or an ioptron skyguider.
  22. Looks very good. I am a bit jealous of your samyang 135mm. I am still waiting the delivery of mine, looks like it's on a back order at the minute.
  23. Using a field of view calculator is handy in this situation. Putting your scope details in along with a 10mm eyepiece shows the field of view and size of Jupiter you will get with your scope. This is shown in the attached picture. As you can see Jupiter will appear quite small with your scope and a 10mm eyepiece.
  24. Quoting myself but I did end up going for the right angled erecting 6x30 skywatcher finder scope. It's a nice little finder scope, weighs less than the original 9x50 I had so just right for my purposes. Now we need some cloudless skies. Unfortunately I have just made quite a few equipment purchases (asiair pro, power pack, samyang lens, filters etc..) so apologies to all, it's my fault we have all the clouds at the moment.
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