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The-MathMog

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Everything posted by The-MathMog

  1. As mentioned, I have been capable of getting unguided subs of 180s with it (possibly more, haven't tested yet, as I can guide now), which was using a 2.25x barlow effectively giving my newtonian a focal length of 1450~. Not quite the 8'' cassegrain FL, but up there so 90 should indeed be possible. Though I have to mention, that that was after I PEC trained it. At that focal length or more, tiny periodic errors in gears become quite noticeable, and before doing the "training" I had to throw away half of my subs of 120 secs, as periodic errors would return every 8-9 minutes or however long it ta
  2. Before it got completely dark (Unfortunately even the astro-darkness of the night is gone) I thought I would try doing a quick shoot of the moon. I did 20 shots but ended up only using 1 of the images as the atmosphere was very turbulent. Even stacking all of the others together didn't produce a better image than this one. Sure it removed the bit of noise that was present, but it just blurred out details. I could have taken a video instead, but I don't have any experience in processing that, so I just went "safe", until I would go shoot some galaxies instead anyway Iso: 400 Exposure: 1/8
  3. It is a decent alignment. Not good, but decent. Getting a better one than that takes precision, either centering every star in a very high magnification eye-piece, and making sure you slew to it from the same side each time (as slop in the gears can also produce errors). That or you simply have to do "drift aligning". It is often easier to do than one might think, but it takes some testing and practise. Regarding the slew to your first star, this sounds perfectly normal. You have to remember, that when you polar align, you don't polar align your scope, but your mount. There will almost alwa
  4. As he mentioned, his scrolling text screen is blurring, making it hard to read, probably due to power or settings. My old SLT mount did this too, and it can be really hard to read anything when it does that
  5. I don't think that the mount can actually remember its home position after turning it off/on. That is why it asks you to set it to the index? Not 100% sure though. As far as I remember, the warning is actually just the mount telling you, that adjusting the polar alignment, will ruin your star alignment? Before you do the Latitude and Azimuth adjustment, the mount should have slewed to the star one last time, but most likely missing, as it is slewing to where the star should be, and then asking you to adjust the mount. Maybe you are pressing enter twice sometimes? When syncing the star, y
  6. First, are you using any other programs simultaneously with the mount on your computer, like NexRemote? If you've set them up for the same Com Port then this can be an issue as they can't communicate over the same. Had that issue myself a few times. And if not, try running it in compatibility mode. Also fully updated Stellarium version? I am also using Windows 10 and it works fine for me. But I'll try and play around with it now, and try and remember if I did anything specific for it to work.
  7. Well until you get a stronger power-supply you will still encounter these issues, as I am pretty much certain this is the main root of your issue. If you provide 3A to a 3.5A rated mount, then it is literally not getting enough power to track properly, and this sounds consistent with what you've observed, with the star being tracked properly for a few minutes, then moving around inconsistently. Also, if you check the "Polar Alignment accuracy" in the handset after having done the ASPA, then that number is not accurate at all, because your handset can't know what the alignment is AFTER you'v
  8. You're very welcome! Might as well help a fellow astronomer and dane! When buying powersupplies just always check for the power that the equipment requires and then find a power-supply that delivers MORE than that if possible. Especially for hobbies like ours when we're outside, the power it delivers can actually drop below its stated amp, so if you had a 3.5A it could at times still not provide enough power as the cold would make it perform worse than expected. Also to note, the one I linked is not specifically designed for outdoor use, so try at best to keep it dry/under some protection.
  9. Well I am glad I could provide some insight. The reason I do it twice is not for the star alignment, but for improving the polar alignment. When you adjust the polar alignment after the first ASPA, the correction also includes the potential errors in the star align. So by doing it all again, you will most likely futher improve the polar alignment, given that you do the star-aligning very accurately, in my case using a 6mm eyepiece + 2.25x barlow A proper power-supply might very well be something you should try out! From the manual it states that it requires "12V DC 3.5A" so if you provi
  10. I own a AVX mount too, and I would be one of those people for whom it works very well. My first advice, and most simple/obvious one, is to make sure that you input all the correct informations. Check map charts for your latitude/longitude, make sure the clock and date is accurate (be aware of the date format that is Month/Day/Year), what timezone you're in (I believe london is 0, but check the chart in the supplied manual if uncertain) and lastly that daylight-savings time is enabled as it is right now. Most of the times I've had issues, has been where one of these was entered incorrectly/mis
  11. The part you wrote in the title is only the OTA (Optical Tube Assembly), you need to either buy a mount separately or in a package. So no height here by itself
  12. Hey guys I was wondering if a dew shield would prevent my secondary mirror on my 5'' newtonian reflector from dewing up, or if it simply postpones the inevitable? Especially if I am imaging at a target high in the sky, wouldn't the heat then escape by radiating up anyway? I am looking at a solution for it, as it is quite annoying having to go get the hair-dryer and blow air on it every 15-20 minutes. Is a heating band a better option? If so, I just need to find one that has a plug I can use, as I am hooked up to main-power and not a battery, and having Danish sockets. Any other suggestions
  13. This is very cool, and thanks for using and informing me on this! Yeah, I understood it the same way. They mentioned that the supernova was 40 times further away than M63, because of the redshift. And since M63 is +-27 million lightyears out, that is about right. Incredible to think of how much energy was released to be this bright on such a distance.
  14. Thanks a lot, still a long way to go with both capturing and processing but it's getting there! Weather have been terrible for months now here in Denmark, so I am lucky I even managed to get two hours. If it isn't cloudy, it is too windy. But there seems to be a few nights coming up, so I might add more data to it there. Better take the opportunity before the "astro dark" disappears for good until August, which happens in a few weeks :/ Yes, it is unguided. Before I did the PEC training, as mentioned even getting 120s subs was almost impossible. The Celestron AVX "ASPA" seems like a ver
  15. I'd been struggling with gettings subs longer than 60 seconds unguided, as I had to throw away over half of them. I suspected that it was due to periodic errors with the gears or similar with my Celestron AVX. I am using a 2.25 barlow, so my 130slt OTA was very prone to small errors. I looked into doing PEC training, and performed that on this night, and oh holy grail if that didn't produce miracles! I had only done two trainings and averaged them, and I then went from doing 60 second subs, and throwing half of them away, into doing 180 seconds unguided subs without hardly throwing any of them
  16. His mount is still motorized, tracking in Right-Ascension. But most mounts have small imperfections in their gears, which would make the stars move slightly ever so often. Guiding is using a camera to track these motions, and making the mount move in the opposite direction, correcting the "mistakes". Not having a camera do that, is unguided Indeed if his mount wasn't moving at all, he would have trails in less than a second at this focal length. Cracking shots btw OP.
  17. Very good image! How long were the individual subs?
  18. Thanks a lot man. I will give it a go, the next time the clouds allow it, as I do have BackyardNikon!
  19. It is balanced as good as my abilities allow, with a slight east-heavy side. I've also ordered home some Tube-rings, as the ota I am using was normally mounted on an Alt-Az mount, and was a bit one-side heavy in declination, but to my knowledge that wouldn't matter much. You need to know that I am also using a 2.25x barlow to allow focus, basically making it around 1450 in focal length, which also amplifies any small error in tracking, wind gusts and or PE's. And the mistakes I am talking about here, are small enough, that I wouldn't notice them, if I DIDN'T use that barlow. If I didn't use it
  20. Mounts and worm gears are not created equally. So some mounts might have more errors in the gears than others. I can do 3 minute subs too, but the timing between subs I have to scrap is quite consistent with my understanding of worm gears and their period (something like 8 minutes?), hence why I can capture more shorter exposures before having to scrap one. I also use a barlow, with the field of view of 0.7x0.4 degrees so with a big dslr sensor, it is quite sensitive to small changes, which these are. I am connected to the power socket with a good quality cable. I first align manually, lo
  21. Hey Guys. I was just wondering if it is possible for me, to do PEC training using my Nikon DSLR and the cables that I got? I don't have a guiding setup yet, and I want to wait until the money is there and also getting more used to imaging. I tend to have a very good polar alignment, as the image doesn't drift through each frame, but rather there is a "jerk" or drift every other frame, when doing 2-3 minute subs. I guess that is periodic error, as it happens even on windless nights. So, I have both my Nikon DSLR and my mount hooked up to my pc (the mount through port in the Celestron Adva
  22. Now that is one astonishing image. Sooo many small details, colors and other eye-pleasing features!
  23. How dark the foreground is, is actually a nice contrast. Normally you see a almost daylight exposed foreground in these kinds of pictures, but I guess that is one of the benefits of a darksite too Nice!
  24. Thank you, glad you think so. I would've used more data, but as mentioned, I had to throw out sooo many subs because of many different reasons (mainly by my own faults). Tracking was actually surprisingly good, and it mostly seemed to be periodic errors that made quite a few of the frames have weird star wiggles. I would remove the barlow too if I could (only using the lens part, to minimize the magnification), but the 130 SLT OTA was obviously not designed with astrophotography in mind, so the only way of currently achieve focus is with said barlow :/ I want to move the mirror up the tube
  25. I've been processing away, trying to figure out the do and don't's. I find myself doing a dozen renditions and crops, having a hard time figuring out which I like the best. This is what I've come up with so far. Any thoughts on it would be very appreciated, and maybe also touching on when you guys know that you've been "over-cooking" your images.
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