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About The-MathMog

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  1. His mount is still motorized, tracking in Right-Ascension. But most mounts have small imperfections in their gears, which would make the stars move slightly ever so often. Guiding is using a camera to track these motions, and making the mount move in the opposite direction, correcting the "mistakes". Not having a camera do that, is unguided Indeed if his mount wasn't moving at all, he would have trails in less than a second at this focal length. Cracking shots btw OP.
  2. Very good image! How long were the individual subs?
  3. Thanks a lot man. I will give it a go, the next time the clouds allow it, as I do have BackyardNikon!
  4. It is balanced as good as my abilities allow, with a slight east-heavy side. I've also ordered home some Tube-rings, as the ota I am using was normally mounted on an Alt-Az mount, and was a bit one-side heavy in declination, but to my knowledge that wouldn't matter much. You need to know that I am also using a 2.25x barlow to allow focus, basically making it around 1450 in focal length, which also amplifies any small error in tracking, wind gusts and or PE's. And the mistakes I am talking about here, are small enough, that I wouldn't notice them, if I DIDN'T use that barlow. If I didn't use it, I'd most likely keep most of my frames. But that's another thing I'll fix in the future. Not completely convinced yet, that it isn't PE But no matter what, I still want to figure out if I am able to do PEC Training with a DSLR, which is the only reason I made the topic, whether the current mistakes are balance, polar, or anything else related As I still don't own a guiding-cam+scope.
  5. Mounts and worm gears are not created equally. So some mounts might have more errors in the gears than others. I can do 3 minute subs too, but the timing between subs I have to scrap is quite consistent with my understanding of worm gears and their period (something like 8 minutes?), hence why I can capture more shorter exposures before having to scrap one. I also use a barlow, with the field of view of 0.7x0.4 degrees so with a big dslr sensor, it is quite sensitive to small changes, which these are. I am connected to the power socket with a good quality cable. I first align manually, looking at charts where Polaris needs to be in the fov of my 32mm ep. Then I use the mounts ASPA, and lastly I do a few quick drift aligns, which also shows those subtle jitters. If is was an error in polar alignment, then the drift would be consistent, and it isn't at all. So I am still very convinced that it is PE So PEC training is something I want to do no matter what, I just need to figure out if it's possible with my equipment that isn't guiding compatible.
  6. Hey Guys. I was just wondering if it is possible for me, to do PEC training using my Nikon DSLR and the cables that I got? I don't have a guiding setup yet, and I want to wait until the money is there and also getting more used to imaging. I tend to have a very good polar alignment, as the image doesn't drift through each frame, but rather there is a "jerk" or drift every other frame, when doing 2-3 minute subs. I guess that is periodic error, as it happens even on windless nights. So, I have both my Nikon DSLR and my mount hooked up to my pc (the mount through port in the Celestron Advanced VX Controller), from which I can send slew commands. I have the periodic error correction tool too, but as of right now it seems that I have to monitor and correct any PE myself, which I honestly don't want to do as doing that 8 minutes straight with precision doesn't sound easy. So can I hook up the DSLR through say PHD2 and let it correct for me, and do the PEC training, or do I need the actual cable that goes into the Guider port of the mount? Any thoughts on if this is possible would be well received! And if not, I guess I'll either just need to get used to shorter subs (or throwing 1/2 of them away), or trying to do the training manually with the zoomed image of Backyard Nikon.. Cheers -Mathias
  7. Now that is one astonishing image. Sooo many small details, colors and other eye-pleasing features!
  8. How dark the foreground is, is actually a nice contrast. Normally you see a almost daylight exposed foreground in these kinds of pictures, but I guess that is one of the benefits of a darksite too Nice!
  9. Thank you, glad you think so. I would've used more data, but as mentioned, I had to throw out sooo many subs because of many different reasons (mainly by my own faults). Tracking was actually surprisingly good, and it mostly seemed to be periodic errors that made quite a few of the frames have weird star wiggles. I would remove the barlow too if I could (only using the lens part, to minimize the magnification), but the 130 SLT OTA was obviously not designed with astrophotography in mind, so the only way of currently achieve focus is with said barlow :/ I want to move the mirror up the tube at some point, but the screws etc that I need are surprisingly hard to find around here.
  10. I've been processing away, trying to figure out the do and don't's. I find myself doing a dozen renditions and crops, having a hard time figuring out which I like the best. This is what I've come up with so far. Any thoughts on it would be very appreciated, and maybe also touching on when you guys know that you've been "over-cooking" your images.
  11. I was out a couple of nights ago, mainly to test out my in-door setup for taking pictures, after acquiring cables for powering the DSLR, data transfer from DSLR to PC, and telescope control. It works out great, only nickle I have with it is the focusing aspect, as I have to run in and out to check it. Need to figure that out. But oh well, I figured that I'd try shooting one of my favorite galaxies, the "Black Eye Galaxy". It's been one of my favorite ever since I saw the hubble photo of it, making it literally look like a "corrupt" galaxy. I had several issues, both with focusing, proper balancing of the mount, dew on the secondary mirror and accidentally deleting my alignment, so out of the over 100 pictures that I took, I only ended up using 30 of them for this picture (Seriously how many satellites pass through that area of the sky?!). But I was pleasantly surprised to see, that I could pull as much out of it as I could! I need to figure out, how I can train my mount for PEC with my DSLR too, before I have to throw more money into gear, letting me guide. 30 Subs 1 Minute Exposure 6400 Iso 25 Dark Frames Baader 2.25x Barlow (Focus Reasons) Nikon D5200 Celestron Nexstar 130 SLT OTA Celestron AVX Mount Photoshop CS2 (Both Stacked and processed. I find that I can often get better results there, rather than stacking in DSS)
  12. Personally I find it useful, but mostly only when the moon is close to full. At that point it is uncomfortable for me to look at it, even only through a 5'' Reflector. Not painful, just uncomfortable and the filter helps quite a bit with that.
  13. From what I've heard, the general maximum length is 5 meters. Anything longer than that and you need an Active Usb extender cable. I got one of those, which is 10 meters going from my DSLR to my laptop, and it works perfectly.
  14. That right there could look like shaking caused by the DSLR flipping the mirror into place. That will show vibrations in even very short exposures. Try to look in the settings for something like "Exposure Delay Mode" or something similar, which makes the exposure start a second after the mirror has made its movement, making the vibrations settle before taking the picture. On another note, you would have to make the exposure even shorter to get out the details on Jupiter too, as it is very bright
  15. Sorry but I don't have a solution to getting dss to work that out for you. But why not just manually stack the two outputs, the stacked 30 second frame and the stacked 4 min one? It can easily be done in either photoshop or gimp which is free and then you can also experiment with different opacities, to either favor more of the 4 min data or more of the 30 second data, or only using the 30 second data for the cores. The stacking itself can easily be done with the blending modes, where "difference" mode is a great tool, and then turning one layer on and off to see if they line up properly