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About drumsolo

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    Star Forming
  1. Ok so do you save your position and then Park the scope? Then power on the next night and start from Park and go to user defined object? thanks again stuart
  2. Thank you Stargeeezer Tim for your advice. Whilst I appreciate the other comments these have just confused me even more. How do you save your position on synscan? yes I agree consecutive clear nights is asking a bit much!!
  3. Hi sorry if this has been asked before but I can't find all the answers I need. My current imaging setup is SW200pds on HEQ5 pro autoguding and imaging with a canon DSLR. I want to try imaging over multiple nights to get more data and hopefully better images. I have never tried this so my question is if I leave my camera attached to the scope in the same orientation how do I re align the scope the next night if I am not using an eye piece to find the alignment stars? Am i simply using the camera live view instead of the eyepiece? Could I in theory leave my scope powered up all night continually tracking so it doesnt need re aligning? If I parked the scope can I resume from Park position after turning the power off and it will still be aligned? Sorry if these are dumb questions, I'm just trying to find the simplest way of doing this! Thanks in advance Stuart
  4. Hi Michael, Thanks for pointing this out I wasnt aware of this issue. It is never straight forward! Would the vingetting be much worse than using my aps-c sensor? Assuming I can remove this by taking flats? Thanks Stuart
  5. I'm currently using a 2" Skywatcher LP filter with my canon 1100d. Would I see a vast improvement if I upgraded to one of the Astronomik CLS Clip filters instead? The price increase would suggest yes,has anyone any experience of these filters? thanks
  6. I am looking to upgrade my current unmodified Canon 1100d to either a full frame DSLR such as Canon 6D or a dedicated CCD camera. I have just across the ZWO cameras and I am interested in these but don't know enough about the differences I would get from a more expensive full frame DSLR and one of these. I would prefer a colour CCD camera so I don't have to take lots of different filter exposures but would this produce far inferior results? My budget is around £1000 so I really want to get the most I can from this, any help would be really appreciated to help me decide.
  7. Sorry I'm still leaning to use these tools properly. Do you mean select a point at the bottom of the curve then move the curve?
  8. After using levels and curves my images look very grey and washed out. What is the best way to darken the background so its more natural looking? Many thanks
  9. Hi thanks for the reply. should I move the left hand slider all the way to where the histogram starts or somewhere in the middle? thanks
  10. Ok I really hope some one out there can help me out here. There are way too many conflicting articles on how to post process with levels and curves. I feel like pulling my hair out as some articles contradict each other and suggest doing it the opposite way around. When using levels should I be moving the left hand slider towards the black edge of my data and clip the dead space after each curve stretch? Should I ever move the other 2 sliders? i would be extremely grateful for a definitive answer if there is one! thanks stuart
  11. I have an unmoved Cannon 1100d that I have been using for Deep sky objects but I don't seem to be able to produce much in the way of colours. My recent M31 attempt looks very monochrome, is there any tricks I am missing to pull colour out or am I doing something wrong initially? I took 30 x 180 subs of M31 and stacked in DSS with Photoshop processing. Any help or thoughts would be very appreciated. Thanks
  12. Thanks for the positive comments. I was also wondering how I can get more colour out of my images, I am using an unmodded Canon 1100d at present and trying to bring out the colour in CS6 but not really sure how to go about it?
  13. After a year out I am at last getting back to imaging and had a go at M51 for the first time. This was around 80 mins of subs, no darks or flats unfortunately so I had to do a lot of of post processing in CS6 which I am still learning but think I am getting there. Anyway please comment on the pic and processing and anything I could do to improve it. Many thanks
  14. Need some help understanding these, are they the same thing or produce different results? I would like to be able to take wider field images through my DSLR and also reduce the Coma. Would the skywatcher coma corrector do both? Thanks in advance
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