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The-MathMog

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  1. The-MathMog

    NGC-3344 - LRGB

    From the album: The-MathMog's Images

    Image: Luminance - 13x16 min RGB - 2x16 min each Flat and Dark calibrated Gain 111 Offset 40 Total Integration - 5 Hours 4 minutes (LRGB) _____________________ Gear Used: Skywatcher 150PDS Celestron AVX Mount ZWO ASI 183MM-Pro Baader 2'' Neodymium Filter Baader 1,25'' RGB Filters ZWO Mini EFWExplore Scientific Coma CorrectorToupTek Camera G-1200-KMB Mono GuiderOrion Mini 50mm Guidescope ______________________ Software:SharpcapPHD 2Photoshop CS2Deep Sky StackerStellarium/Stellarium ScopeAstrotortilla 26/03-2020 Mathias Mogensen

    © Mathias M. Mogensen

  2. The-MathMog

    The-MathMog's Images

    Just some of my images in general.
  3. Alright. Might need to add that to my software list then. I do like the aesthetics of Stellarium and since I comfortably use it to control my telescope too, I don't think I'll ditch that I did image again tonight, and the asteroid is still well within frame. With the speed it is moving through the frame, I suspect that it will be in frame for a couple more days too.
  4. Cool, thanks for that - I'll give it a look. Cheers. A pure coincidence I recognized it - will definitely keep an eye out for more! Probably could, I'll consider that. In the span of the hours imaging, it moved like 3-4 arc-minutes.
  5. Very nice, and that was a fast respond guys! That was quite a close magnitude estimate haha! May i ask what tool you use to identify object like this?
  6. Hey there I was out with my scope for the first time this years and was imaging the galaxy NGC2903 in LRGB. When I was stacking the RGB images, I noticed that one of the stars didn't properly align, and can now see that it is a very slowly moving object. I am not sure how I can identify what object it is? I can't find anything in Stellarium that shows up in that period, so anyone of you that can help? Loosely comparing it to other stars, it appears to be like +14 magnitude It was imaged from around CET 01:43 to 02:28 in this GIF: It probably also appeared in the light f
  7. That is almost certainly amp glow as others said. I get the same with my ZWO ASI 183MM, and it looks almost exactly like this, and I went through a whole trouble-shooting session, then only to figure out it was amp glow. Applying Dark Frames can greatly reduce these.
  8. A few things, when you say "it has no more data", are you then looking at the image straight out of DSS (or manual stack), or are you looking at a fully stretched and processed image? I couldn't see much difference in my 45 minute stack and 4 hour stack, but once processing it, I saw the difference in detail I was able to pull out immediately. And are you recording your images in RAW and not JPEG? The JPEG compression makes the image loose a lot of the very fine details that stacking lots of subs would normally bring out. And someone please correct me if I got it wrong. When you take
  9. And there indeed are people using it, but most of the time it is only the tube (OTA) that they are using. The Alt-Az mount is the main problem. I did so myself too in the beginning, but it was a lot of frustration, lack-luster results, and extra money spend, that could've been used a lot better, acquiring gear that was more suited for astrophotography in the beginning. In the beginning I didn't know that I wanted to go down the astrophotography road. The longest exposures I ever got on it was like 30 seconds, and that was after a lot of practice and calibration. As said, this mount is very f
  10. If you wanna go pursue astrophotography and specifically deep sky imaging, you should go for a Equatorial Mount, not an Alt/Az as the Slt 130 is. When imaging on an Alt Az mount, you will get field rotation, which will make the stars blur and stretch after a certain exposure time. I made the mistake myself to start out with the Celestron 130 SLT. As good as a visual and beginner scope it is, it is really not suited at all for astrophotography. Not only is the mount quite flimsy, so that you need tuberings. The OTA itself is not set up for imaging either, as a lot of cameras doesn't have enou
  11. The 10 inch Skywatcher Quattro, weighs 15.1 kilograms. And that is only the tube, so when you add tube-rings, camera, guide-scope etc, it would be quite a bit heavier. The HEQ5 only has a payload of 11kg for imaging and 15kg for visual, so you would need a mount that is a lot beefier The NEQ6 (guess that is the one you meant), has a payload 18kg for imaging, 25kg for visual. Even with that you'd get close to the limits, but with proper balancing and limiting the amount of extra gear, it would be possible. An EQ6-R PRO would probably be a way better solution. But all this is of cour
  12. Thank you very much Martin. These two only barely fit in the frame at this rotation. If I were to do it again from scratch sometime, I think I'd rotate the field like 20 degrees clockwise. Can't wait to add some color to it, and maybe even some HA if time lets me!
  13. Cloudless nights has been sparse the last 6 months since I got my new ZWO ASI 183MM-PRO. Probably just the prophecy holding true! But I just had two nights last week where I could get some hours in during the moonless part of the night. Unfortunately my rig had some issues on the first one, so only got like 40 minutes in, but then almost 4 hours the next night. Unfortunately I had to go to work the next day, so had to pull the plug early.. ______________________________ Gear: Skywatcher 150PDS Celestron Advanced VX Mount ZWO ASI 183MM-PRO Baader 2'' Neodymium Filter Expl
  14. So after acquiring a dedicated astronomy camera, the ZWO ASI183MM, and going from Backyard Nikon to Sharpcap, I've been looking into ways that I can get the program to sort the files for me with names. What I would preferably like, is for it to name the files themselves, as the target, and with the exposure length and gain, but I am not sure if and how that is possible. I've been noodling a bit with it, but it isn't as intuitive as I would like it to be. Right now it creates sub-folders: "Date/Target Name/Time of sequence start" and then the file names with the time of the exposure. It
  15. My guess is that you would have to use sidereal when training. But not having said controller myself, it is hard to say. I did find the manual for it online though and the procedure is as stated. 1. "Polar align the equatorial mount accurately, and then perform a star alignment". There is an answer for your first question. You need to star align. 2. "Choose a star close to the celestial equator, point the telescope towards it and start mount tracking. Center the star in the telescope's eyepiece" - this is where I am pretty sure you need to just use sidereal tracking. 3. "Access t
  16. What constitutes it being a disaster? Is the images just completely black, or is it all out of focus? Starting out, it is indeed a good idea to focus on the moon, as the focus will be pretty much the same for everything else in the sky. But the moon is also very bright, so camera settings will need to be very different for other objects. Way longer exposure and higher gain. As mentioned too, your mount is an Alt-Az mount, and is decent enough for photographing planets and the moon, but it gets hard when trying to do Deep Sky Objects. It is possible though. I started out with an Alt
  17. Welcome to the forum! I've only been on here for almost a couple of years myself, and I can attest to, that there is a lot of help, experience and opinions to help you along the way! Clear skies!
  18. PEC seems to one of those areas that either works wonders for people, and for some it is a "waste of time" disaster. For me, it worked wonders, and actually improved my guiding a lot. But that was also because my mount did have a lot of periodic error, that the guiding now doesn't have to work as hard to fix. I did have to have a very good polar alignment, and do half a dousin training sessions and then average that data to get it to work how it should. But that also took my from loosing about 1/2 of my 2 minute subs, to be able to frequently pull of 4 minutes of unguided subs.
  19. I've had great experiences with Skywatcher, as I am currently using the 6 inch version "Skywatcher 150PDS" on a Celestron AVX Mount. What you need to figure out for yourself is, what focal length and targets are you looking at imaging? The TS optics is a 800mm (F4) focal length, while the Skywatcher is 1000mm (F5), so the TS has a larger field of view, but is also more demanding in terms of precise collimation. On the other end, the Skywatcher is a bit heavier because of the difference in length, so will be slightly more demanding for your mount, (but probably not by much, and your mount s
  20. I've had my fare share of issues with PEC myself, mostly because of actual bugs and file format discrepancies between the mount and the software, but have now gotten it to work mostly! ? I do have a Celestron AVX mount, so I am not sure if I can be of any help, but I can at least try. On my AVX, I need to do a "Star-align" to get it to work, but that is because I can't really access the telescope without it. I can of course just do a "quick align", which just tells the scope it is in parking position. The reason really just is, that without the align, it isn't tracking in RA. How d
  21. A new camera, means a lot of testing and seizing every possible clear night at your disposal. I used the first nights with my "ZWO ASI183MM-Pro" shooting hydrogen alpha, but now I wanted to test it on a broadband target. And what better test-subject than good old Bode's Galaxy/Nebula, for this image size! Upon processing the 3,6 hours worth of luminance data, I then realized that I missed the color in the image. So I went digging for the last images I shot of M81, which was with a Nikon D5200 sometime last year. I aligned the images and set the old image to color, and got this as my f
  22. Thank you, that was all I wanted to hear, as the mini EFW will be enough for my needs then! Both minimizing the amount of weight I add, and the amount of bucks spend! Just curious though. Says in your footer that you use 2'' filters, and the ASI1600mm. Is that sensor so much larger that they are needed, are they for another camera or simply to future-proof?
  23. So, a few months ago I did my first plunge in investing in a dedicated astronomy camera. I went with the "ZWO ASI 183MM", and it has been great exploring the capabilities of such cameras. I did buy a 3.5 nm HA Baader filter with it, though a 2 inch one, because the sized for this particular filter was limited. But now I am starting to consider actually getting the RGB filters for it. Mono images has their own charm, but I will forever love color images. So which size do you recon that I should go for, to be on the safe side of vignetting. I've tried using a calculator, and the recommended
  24. A couple of days ago, I just received my new camera, the "ZWO ASI183MM Pro", so these days I am testing it extensively to get my grasp at this new way of imaging. I've been using a DSLR from the beginning after all. And most of the software I was using was only installed on my laptop. The problem right now is, that the laptop I normally use for astrophotography, had its motherboard burn out like a week ago, so right now I have to use my desktop pc, which incidentally means that I have to use my balcony = No Zenith + No Eastern, Northern or Western Horizon visible..... So the amount of tar
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